Originally Posted by RallyBob
Other than the center divider, I basically just cleaned up the stock design and made sure it fits aftermarket intake manifolds. I tried all the ones I had in my possession to make sure.
I did enlarge the ports a bit compared to stock (2.4's have bigger exhaust ports for example), which allows for almost any header tube size.
Bob
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Ok so having the "half circle" for the bolts isn't important. I copied a 2.4l manifold so it should be larger than a 1.9 already. I still plan to compare my digital model against the one you sent to me. Hopefully it will be here today.
I have three manifolds I can test it with, stock 1.9l, 2.4l, and a cut down 3.0l.
Originally Posted by RallyBob
The problem with copper is the lack of 'crush'. So the head's surface, the header, and the intake must be perfectly flat (no corrosion or warpage), and the intake and exhaust flange must be the perfect matching thickness. The intake/exhaust bolts also need to be perfectly torqued to spec, and checked frequently. There's no 'sprung' gasket to take up the slack here! It's been done before on race cars, but conditions must be perfect. The alternative is a car burned to the ground. Especially with a turbo!!!!!
Still, the thought of fuel leaking past the intake flange gasket onto a hot exhaust does not thrill me!
Bob
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What series copper alloy are you talking about? Either way you make good safety points. In the past did you use a stock gasket for your tubular headers? Personally I plan to use a regular gasket since I doubt the gap between the two ports will cause much issue.
Originally Posted by Geek
Somewhat related: What are you going to use to get the mill scale off? A (very) little experience has proven to be miserable.
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As Rallybob said I plan on milling it off. It's nasty stuff so that is all that particular carbide tool will get used for. Sand blasting isn't a bad way to go for the vast majority of people but I already have to face the material down to the correct thickness so this takes two steps down to one. If you do go about removing the scale via milling I'd recommend a fly cutter with a brazed carbide tool since they are cheap and can be reground with common equipment. Modern high performance end mills require cnc grinders to properly regrind. Indexable tooling is the other way to go but that is more expensive.
I have these "Gorilla Mill" variable helix end mills I am looking forward to trying out.