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I'll add a bit to the above post...
When tearing apart the engine, I like to use the bag and tag method. Zip-loc freezer bags work great because you can write on the outside and it ususlly won't rub off and items don't fall out... So as you remove the rocker nut, place the entire assembly in the bag: nut, washer, rocker arm and lifter. Then identify contents as #1 Intake... you get the idea.
The cylinder walls on Opel blocks are dang near bullet proof. Unless something bad has happened, normal wear will not leave a ridge. Many times you will still be able to see the original cross-hatching. If compression is good, leave well enough alone.
Crank polishing if done carefully only removes a few tenth's, grinding removes thousandth's. If there is no scoring on the journals, a couple of tenth's can be polished off and then standard size bearing can purchased. When grinding, it usually means going undersize on bearings, like .010, .020 or .030 and bearings to match. AND..., when grinding undersize, the rear main has to be paid special attention to get the thrush bearing gound properly.
Edit:....Oh, and to be clear... I mean polishing at the crank grinding shop, not polishing by emory cloth by hand...
GL
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Paul
Last edited by Paul; 03-19-2009 at 03:01 PM.
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