Originally Posted by wrench459
It all depends..
If you changed out the M/C I'll generally bench bleed it before installation.
If the M/C went dry because of leaking components I'll crack the lines at the M/C first and on a GT its a pita. Don't forget that brake fluid will strip off paint. Just wash it out with a water hose. Then go to the longest line first.
As has been stated before in the prior posts it really does not matter on the older Opels 68-75.
WARNING !!! If the car has ABS braking system read the manual.
Disclaimer use the above info at your own risk.
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Dale D., I worked and learned a few things at BMW from some real sharp mechanics. If you are putting in a new/rebuilt master, bench bleed it well in or out of the car until all bubbles stop. If you have the old master and are just doing a brake job with new pads etc., then do NOT have someone inside the car pumping the pedal and you release the bleeder valve!! You must get a vacumn pump and a jar or bottle set-up to see the old fluid and bubbles coming out of the system. If you pump/foot bleed the system, you will push the piston/seals all the way to the floor where they normally never travel. This area has pitting and crap that tears the snot out of the seals, and will result in the failure of the master cyl. shortly thereafter. Also, always bleed farthest first, that way you get the most bad fluid out first.Also check your back hose begore bleeding, they deteriorate on the inside, and a flap can seal the line & prevent flow to the cyl.