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#1 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Urbandale Iowa
Posts: 196
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Unanswered: Fried my wiring
.burned up the main power source from the alt-starter to the fusebox up to the amp gauge and back ! This happend in the maybe 5 seconds it took to get the batttery cable off. Can't tell yet if I did any more damage, Just haven't had the heart to look to close yet. Kent
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#2 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: oregon
Posts: 97
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Fried
Sorry to hear about your wiring. Only advice I can offer is make sure you open up any wiring harness the affected wires go through. You dont want to leave any other damaged hidden wires that will come back and bite your butt days or weeks or months later. Hope you dont find any more damage but better safe than sorry.
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Duane |
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#3 (permalink) |
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6,000 Post Club
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego
Posts: 6,054
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You're gonna have to drop the fuse panel to see if any wires were torched on top of the fuse panel where all the wiring goes in there. Also pull back the gray sleeving where the harness goes through the top of the footwell. I know this is a PIA, I had that happen to me one time and it's not a real lotta fun. Here's hoping it wasn't long in shorting out, so minimal damage was done.
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Ron 72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed. ![]() 75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Detritus Maximus
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: St. Louis MO
Posts: 1,160
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Kent-
I'm about to remove the wiring harness from a parts car ('70 GT), if you need something, let me know. I promise it will be cheap!
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"No, it's not fiberglass." "No, the motor is not in the back." "No, your friend in high school did not 'peg' his speedometer." |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Urbandale Iowa
Posts: 196
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How can I test my amp gauge to see if it was damaged? The wires up to it and back cooked. Basically the insulation just burnt off. The wires are still intact just bare. Does that seem right for a short? The damage seems fairly limited just need to replace 15' or so of wire.But no way to tell for sure until I put it back together.
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#6 (permalink) |
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6,000 Post Club
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego
Posts: 6,054
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You could put the ammeter in line with a battery and charger to check out the ammeter function. Just hook one lead of the battery charger to the battery post the other to the ammeter and one lead from the ammeter to the other battery post. That would be the easiest way to check it out IMHO.
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Ron 72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed. ![]() 75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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1000 Post Club
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: League City Texas
Posts: 1,117
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Texas Opel Preservation Society |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Kent Lakes, NY
Posts: 1,969
Real Name: Jeff
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Sounds to me like you had a direct short somewhere. When you reconnected everything are you sure you did it properly? I find it hard to believe that water could cause enough of a short to do the damage you are describing. Usually it would start to boil and steam off so fast that it could not do as much damage as you describe. You sure don't want to go and fix everything only to find out that it gets re-cooked the instant you connect it again.
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Jeff '73 GT,5spd,Recaro,EDIS4 2.2 EFI by MegaSquirt, Ali Flywheel w/S10 Clutch, Electric Fan, Roller Rockers, Venolia Pistons, 6 Cyl Intake w/ Custom Injection, 15" Wheels,Lecarra,F&R Sway Bars,Custom Exhaust,1" Sport Spring,Koni Reds,Big Brakes,3 Core Ali Radiator,Hse of Colors Kandy Pagan Gold. 123 WHP @ 6800 RPM ![]() '64 VW Karmann Ghia '08 BMW M3 |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Urbandale Iowa
Posts: 196
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Yes I've been worrying about that myself but I'm not sure what I could have screwed up? I mean theres only two wires coming off the alt ( ground & charge) other than the pig tail that go's from it to the regulator the only thing I changed was I put on a new heaver ground and that was the first thing I checked its not in contact with anything live.
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#10 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Urbandale Iowa
Posts: 196
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Well I've got it almost put back together. On closer inspection I found that the small rubber or bakelite washer that insulates the alt post had cracked, the main power lead was grounded to the body of the alt! I wish I'd had a fuse inline or a fusible link in place, well live and learn.Does anyone know what size link would work on this line? It carries a fairly high load and I don't want it to blow without cause.
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#11 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 508
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Alternator Fusible Link Wire or Fuse
According to the DESTEC Wiring Diagram, alternator wire is 10 GA RED. The correct fusible link between alternator and wiring would be 14 GA (two sizes smaller). Usually local auto parts stores have fusible links with ring terminal already attached. NAPA auto parts (and others) also sell the fusible link wire without the terminals.
Old Fashion, I replaced my GT fusible links with new ones. Some Owners have installed fuses, instead of fusible link wire. Somebody who installed fuse holders can chime-in and indicate what they used. Lindsay 71 GT |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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1000 Post Club
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: League City Texas
Posts: 1,117
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Texas Opel Preservation Society |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Urbandale Iowa
Posts: 196
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I ran into a small problem PO replaced instr. panel and none of the wires are the right colors I just want to know how the amp meter is wired? does the lead from the alt side of the fuse panel ( the one next to the alt feed on the box ) run to the B+ on the amp meter or to the L+. I really need to buy a good wiring diagram. I know that the wires next to the starter feed and the alt feed go to those 2 points but cant remember wich goes to wich .
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#14 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Reidsville N.C.
Posts: 2,160
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Kent, try here in the Tech Center, it may be of some help. Jarrell
http://opelgt.com/tech/cgi-bin/exec/...html&perpage=8
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You lose your dreams, you lose your mind. (The Rolling Stones) |
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#15 (permalink) |
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6,000 Post Club
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego
Posts: 6,054
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Jarrell, sadly to say there are no useable system schematics in the link you provided.
Kent, according to my DESTEC schematic, the L+ lead from the ammeter goes to the stud in the fuse panel that has the buss bar going to the side of the 3 fuses. It actually goes on the stud that is closer to the 3 fuses. The B+ lead goes to the stud diagonallyacross from the L+ stud. The lead from the solenoid, where the battery lead bolts to goes across from the L+ stud. The remaining stud has the lead going to the headlight relay. HTH.
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Ron 72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed. ![]() 75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Reidsville N.C.
Posts: 2,160
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Ron, you are correct. I failed to read the file.
A quick reply that I should have reserched before posting. My DESTEC schematic is at the shop. Sorry about that. Jarrell
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You lose your dreams, you lose your mind. (The Rolling Stones) |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Urbandale Iowa
Posts: 196
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Thanks guys got it straight now I had it hooked up backwards I turned on the fan and the volts went up
I tried it before I put the dash back in . Started it and everything works I'll have to be more careful next time but at least there was no major damage.
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