OGTS 65 amp alternator question

[Gordy]

Hi Everybody!
I had installed the 65 amp OGTS alternator in my 4 speed 1970 GT a month or so ago and that worked real well. Guage still shows a charge even with the headlights and blower running. No problem there.
The problem is I just received my second 65 amp alternator from them and put it in my second Opel GT (with auto trans)and it didn't show hardly any amp needle movement when I started the car. (about the same as the stock 28 amp did). Problem is when the heater or headlights are turned on it actually shows a slight discharge (just as the stock alternator had done). I cleaned and tightened the ground to engine but same thing. I plan on driving up to Auto Zone tomorrow (they told me they can test the alternator in the car) to see how many amps the unit is putting out. It may be possible that they shipped a rebuilt 28 amp out to me by mistake, but hope to know more Sunday.
Any other thoughts on where the problem may lie???

[namba209]

Until you find out what the amp output is on the "new" alternator, I'd hold off on asking for suggestions. If you're only getting minimal amp output ie., 28 amps, then call Gil or Dennis at OGTS and they will probably make it right. I know they have bent over backwards for me and my Willit? project, as well as others on the site.

[Gordy]

Thanks Ron. I know if it is anything to do with the alternator being incorrect or defective the boys at OGTS stand behind their stuff. It's just I hate when things don't go as planned! Will let you know more in the morming!

[tekenaar]

Just a thought, when you turn the ignition key on does your ammeter idiot light come on? If it doesn't, your alternator will never go into 'charge' mode as this is its 'exciter circuit' and won't work if the bulb's burned out.

[Gordy]

Checked that out too. Light comes on just as it should. Will know more shortly.

[Gordy]

Problem solved.
Auto Zone checked the battery first, which was fine, and then determined the voltage regulator was shot. They actually have them available for $29 on a 2 day order basis! I made a trip to the OGTBPSR (Opel GT Basement Parts Supply Room) and in 5 minutes had a replacement voltage regulator on and it worked like a charm. Never saw the needle move so far to the right! Also it's the first time in 35 years of driving Opels that I ever had a regulator go out on me! I guess there's a first time for everything!

[namba209]

Gordy, they do go bad once in a while. I had to replace the original points type regulator in one of my GTs with a solid state type, never had one go bad since, though. Glad you got yours fixed.

[markandson]

Open the old one up and post the results. It would be interesting to know what the failure was.

[namba209]

Originally Posted by markandson Open the old one up and post the results. It would be interesting to know what the failure was.

I'll do that Jeff, as soon as I find it. I've got a one car garage kinda full of boxes and containers that have excess parts and hardware from my Willit? project. I've got to clean out the garage, real soon, so Margaret can put her Montana back in before the rainy season hits. Already rained yesterday and this morning, and I've gotten THAT look again. I can't even stand in front of my work bench right now and it's cluttered with extraeneous stuff too.

[Gordy]

Autopsy Report is in.........

The "points' or contacts inside looked real good. All connections looked good. Visible sign of trouble was on top of what I would take to be a coil of some type where there was rusty battery acidy looking type build up. That's as good of a description as I can give ya, lol

[markandson]

WOW, that was quick. Hard to tell exactly what happened. There isn't anything inside the can that should have caused that as far as I know.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by Gordy Autopsy Report is in......... The "points' or contacts inside looked real good. All connections looked good. Visible sign of trouble was on top of what I would take to be a coil of some type where there was rusty battery acidy looking type build up. That's as good of a description as I can give ya, lol

Lot of corrosion at the pivot of the movable contact points which is where the power to the alternator field coil (DF) is passed . . . definitely cause of your failure, probably moisture got inside the can somehow and rusted this.

[jlthunder]

I had a regulator go south on me. It would work fine on start up and then slowly die. It looks like the electromagnet which causes the regulator to engage was weak. It would hold for a little and then die out when the battery called for charge over time. I replaced it with a solid state unit from my OGTBS(Opel GT Barn Storage) supply and I also never looked back.
Jeff

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by jlthunder I had a regulator go south on me. It would work fine on start up and then slowly die. It looks like the electromagnet which causes the regulator to engage was weak. It would hold for a little and then die out when the battery called for charge over time. I replaced it with a solid state unit from my OGTBS(Opel GT Barn Storage) supply and I also never looked back. Jeff

Solid state (electronic) trumps electromechanical every time . . . Pertronix comes to mind here as good example!