Starter help for 1.9L

[opel kid]

I have done a search on here, but all i could find was were someone found
one for a 1.1L at Orillys auto parts.
My starter will ingage but turns moter over to slow.
When Autozone checked it. It would read that the starter passed then failed over and over again.
So they said it might need a new drive.But they have no parts.
Orilly has a solenoid and new brushes.
Does anybody have any suggestions on this?
Will new brushes be my problem?

Don't know if this is the right forum or not!!!

[badbradgt]

Well, to me it sounds like you might not even have a bad starter. If the engine is turning over, the starter is doing its job. My car turns over kinda slow, but once she gets some fire in her she starts right up.

Make sure that your getting spark, and make sure that your getting fuel down there.

[hrcollinsjr]

The starter may be bad but this will help some whether you have to replace the starter or not.

Make sure all of your connections are good, especially the ground, too many people think the positive cable is the most important and forget to make sure the negative side of the circuit is equal to the positive side.

Do a search of the forum for a starter relay to help insure that the starter is getting full power and to help protect your starter switch from undue wear on the contacts.

Harold

[opel kid]

i don't have the fuel hooked up yet,or raditator in.
i was trying to turn it over to check compression.
Does your motor turn over slow.
Oh! the people at my local Autozone said this is a mexican built car.
i had to show them how to set up the tester just to check it.

[baz]

posting in
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/1a-star...arging-system/
might help for 1 , reading the 129 threads that talk about starter motors might help for 2

and from what you have said about hte place that tested it try some place that knows its a$$ from its elbow might help lol

thread moved

[baz]

from your last post but 1 you may have little or no oil in the bearings and oil ways if it has stood a long time
you can use a long flat blade screwdriver shaped bit of bar the same as the dizzy drive in a drill to turn the oil pump clockwise (needs fuel pump and dizzy removing for this ) this will pump oil into the bearings

[markandson]

Disassemble the starter and clean/lube everything. The old grease in the bearings will slow it down to a crawl. If you don't have the ability, then find a close friend that does. Most of the stuff in these cars just needs tlc to bring it back to life.

[N61WP]

May I suggest that you look for a local auto electric shop. The basics of most starters are the same and a good shop should be able to check it out correctly. Then, if it needs it, they can usually rebuild it for you in a week or so. You just can't depend on most auto parts counter folks for real expertise any more.
Bestus,
Jc

[Gordy]

Go to RockAuto.com and buy a rebuilt starter for $44 (includes core) and save yourself a lot of grief. Put new starter in car and be done. They also sell brushes, starter drives if you want to tear it apart.

[jeff denton]

Remember, it all starts at the battery. Did you check it first? Your best friend in your new hobby will be a good voltmeter. Trust me.

[OpelJim]

Originally Posted by opel kid i don't have the fuel hooked up yet,or raditator in. i was trying to turn it over to check compression. Does your motor turn over slow. Oh! the people at my local Autozone said this is a mexican built car. i had to show them how to set up the tester just to check it.

Hi Kid,

Seeing as you are new to Opel I thought I would throw in my 2 cents worth about doing a compression test

If you are wanting to get a real good accurate PSI then I suggest you do as follows:

1) Make sure you have plenty of cranking amps. I use a fully charged battery, preferably a NEW one that is fully charged, with a 40 amp battery charger attached so that the cranking stays even through all 8 times checking the cylinders.

2) Make sure the throttle is OPEN both barrels all the way open, no fuel dumping into them just open with the fuel lines disconnected or tank dry.

3) Do the 4 cylinders dry first ( all 4 plugs out of course) then for the 2nd time through use WD-40 or motor oil to lubricate the walls. If compression goes up then it is a good indication the rings are worn

Let me know the numbers you get PSI dry and wet

P.S. If it turns out you need a starter let me know I have 20 of them in stock

[DESTEC]

1) make sure the engine ground strap is in good condition and in good contact.
2) make sure your battery cable connections are good and clean.

I once had a starter that worked in the shop, on the ground, but not in the car. Turned out to be that I had used one of those stupid replacement battery clamps to the red cable; and corrosion under the copper/lead connection was preventing enough current to get to the starter motor. I read 12 Volts at the starter (and not having a clamp on Amp meter) was left guessing. Intuition and visual inspection is a great place to start.