Click, no turn or start

[grslightng02]

After much labor I have pulled, cleaned, & repainted the gas tank, removed sock filter, installed new fuel line and two fuel filters. The battery is new and charged and I have replaced the battery cables.

Today I sprayed some starter fluid in the carb and fired it up. It started and burned the starter fluid in the carb and died. I figured I needed to go a couple more rounds with starter fluid until the fuel pump pulls the new gas all the way through the fuel line.

After spraying another dose of starter fluid in the carb, I got in the car and turned the key and all I hear is one click. That's it, nothing more... the engine doesn't even try to start or turn. I tried a jump start and even tried a battery charger.

Any ideas on why the car would start one moment.... and not a few mins later? Also the I have a suspicion the previous owner had the wrong spark plugs in the motor, they were Bosch Super Start W7BC, yes/no?

Thanks, Neil

[sawdust]

If you put on new cables make sure they are TIGHT.


.

[Gumby]

Does it always may a click or did it make the click once then nothing after that?

Sometimes my GT will just click once but not start but it will also kick over after a few attempts of one click.

Have you tested your starter to see if it is good or at least getting power?

[baronbors]

Check all your ground straps- especially the one from the block to the frame

[grslightng02]

I turned the key and it clicks once. I tried several more times and the same thing happened, one click. I haven't checked the starter, but I can't imagine it would work, and then 2 minutes later not work.

On a separate note, Any ideas or suggestions on replacement spark plugs brands and model numbers?

[opellane]

Sounds like your starter solnoid is hanging up after along time of cranking.Make sure Battery is fully charged, and have good starter cable, Try to jumper the starter. Key on, and jump starter large bolt to spade nearest body, could have a intermittent starter problem. I would install a pilot relay for the starter to protect the ignition switch. Sounds like your not getting fuel to carb. Check fuel pump and make sure fuel lines are not clogged. Use a clear fuel filter near carb. to see fuel.
Hope you get it running and good luck

[grslightng02]

Not sure what you mean by ground straps? Do you mean the electric ground wire from block to frame? Where is that?

[opellane]

Been using NGK BP6HS Spark Plugs with no problems.

[BDD]

You'd be surprised how any corrosion on the battery posts and cable terminals can affect the power to the starter solenoid. They also have to be bolted on tight and the ground strap on the passenger side to the frame can corrode. Those would be the first things to check. I'd clean the terminals with scotch brite or the brushes they sell for that, tighten the terminals and see what happens with your battery charged.

[grslightng02]

All new battery, and cables already installed and i sanded down the contact point for the ground cable to the body. I'll go back and double check to tighten them.

The only other odd thing I noticed is that the Positive Cable where it connects to the starter solenoid was hot when the car had not been running.

[trlmr]

could it be the bendix has not released from the flywheel? sometimes that will happen on a large diesel engine that has not been started for a while.

[grslightng02]

My neighbor suggested the same thing and suggested we put the car in nuetral and roll it back and forth and that might unlock it... but no go, it didn't help.

[trlmr]

You would have to put in gear and roll it to kick it out. After reading your thread again if it died and then refused to start that probably wouldn't be it. They usually stick after cranking without starting

[wrench459]

I use nothing but Bosch super plugs WR7BC (modified).
The engine to body ground strap is located on the pass. side front of the block. Flat cable noninsulated.
To check the ground side you'll need atleast a voltmeter.
Place one lead on the engine and the other on the center of the negative battery post.
When engaging the starter look at the meter it should be under 1.0 volts if higher than that you've got a bad connection on the ground side.
My money is on a bad starter solenoid.
Very hard to check without special tools.

[namba209]

I'm betting on the contacts inside the solenoid. On some of them you can rotate the contacts 180 degrees and get some more life ou of them. To acces the contacts you have to pull the starter, remove the two screws that attach it to the starter and rotate the solenoid until the tang on it clears the starter. Be careful it is spring loaded with a large spring inside. Once removed the solenoid can be partially disassembled by removing the two screws on the cap. Carefully remove the cap, noting the orientation of the spade lugs and one contact will have a wire going to the solenoid coil. The large washer can be sanded down to remove the pits around the perimeter. Rotate the square contacts, reassemble, and you should be good to go. The other alternative is to replace the starter assembly. HTH.

[GTJIM]

This circuit is a known trouble spot on all Opels. About 20 amps is routed through the switch activated by the key ... and this high current simply burns it out. The remedy is fitting a relay into the circuit that is activated by about 1 amp through the key switch.

See "Ottostart" : http://www.opelgt.com/forums/1a-star...t-starter.html

and do a search for "Ottostart" which will also lead you to Threads about the differences between Bosch and Delco Remy starters (they are wired differently to the solenoid ... from memory).

The 'click' suggests that power is getting to the solenoid, in your case, but that the voltage is too low to operate the solenoid. Earths (ground connections ..) and voltage drops through the circuit though the key switch are prime suspects as is the main contact inside the solenoid.

If the starter works by shorting out the connection posts on the starter - between the heavy battery cable and the solenoid activation terminal then the key switch circuit is the prime suspect. BE CAREFUL if trying this as you are dealing with a 400 amp direct connection to the battery!

I have a 1991 Senator that has to be started this way from time to time - Opel continued to use a similar starting circuit with the overloaded key switch right through till at least the 1990's !!

[Redskinsjbs]

I would just like to add something to check for.

I was using a battery charger / start booster thing for all of the testing of my electrical system while I was building it. When I went to try to start my car, I ran into the same problem described above. I would get a single 'click' and then nothing.

I first moved the two clamps for the charger/booster directly on the the solenoid post and the grounding bolt for the starter. When I did this I would get a single 'click' and then a very soft hum.

That led me to thinking that my booster wasn't delivering enough amperage (It says that it only gives 60 amps). I then hooked up my battery, hit the buton and the car cranked right over!

Let me add that this was a new starter that I knew worked and had only cranked maybe 15 or 20 times in its lifetime. Because of that, I doubted that there was any problem with the starter.

So, in summary, another thing to check for if you get a single 'click' is to be sure that you are getting enough amperage to the solenoid and starter.

[myopels]

Originally Posted by BDD You'd be surprised how any corrosion on the battery posts and cable terminals can affect the power to the starter solenoid. They also have to be bolted on tight and the ground strap on the passenger side to the frame can corrode. Those would be the first things to check. I'd clean the terminals with scotch brite or the brushes they sell for that, tighten the terminals and see what happens with your battery charged.

Not only the cables and terminals can mess up your battery's charge, but letting acid and dirt collect on the top of your battery can drain it like leaving your lights on. When I worked at BMW, one of the mechanics took a test meter and touched one terminal, and then different dirt spots, and got up to 11 volts going thru the dirt! So, keep that top clean-not just for looks.

[SantaClaw]

Try the simplest sulution first:


Try starting your neighbours car, if that works, it's probably something wrong with yours. If that won't work either, it's probably you that needs replacement...

[SantaClaw]

Oh.. Joke aside, try unscrewing all your plugs, and see if it will turn, perhaps vapor lock of some sort ?

Shine a flashlight down the plug holes, and check if the pistons are where they should be..

Starter fluid can seriously damage an engine, so I never use it.

Problems with the camshaft ?

Is the chain in place ?

Water in the oil ?

[GRS72GT]

I just replaced the starter in my GT and it has a similar problem. Sometimes it will crank right away, and sometimes the solenoid will click and nothing else will happen. I'll try a few times, kill the power (there is a toggle switch and a push button ignition installed) and it will crank right away again. I do notice that when it does crank, it seems a little sluggish... I recently replaced the ground from the engine block, as someone suggested earlier. Any thoughts?

[Redskinsjbs]

First step to take is to ensure the the proper amount of voltage and amperage is getting to the starter / solenoid. Make sure that ALL of the cables are free of corrosion as well as their mounting points (Battery ground and power, engine ground). You can use an ohm meter to test this.

If that stuff checks out, make sure that the battery is in good condition and charged. (It could be charged, but not in good condition and you wouldn't get enough amps to the starter. Vice Versa and you wouldn't get enough volts . . . catch my drift?)

Finally, if the battery passes, it could be an overheated starter or bad contacts within the solenoid.

HTH,

Jay

[wrench459]

Originally Posted by Redskinsjbs First step to take is to ensure the the proper amount of voltage and amperage is getting to the starter / solenoid. Make sure that ALL of the cables are free of corrosion as well as their mounting points (Battery ground and power, engine ground). You can use an ohm meter to test this.

Hey Jay I hope you don't mind. But could we explore this a little closer?

Heres how I would go about checking any power and grounds.
First you'll need an 20 megaohm multimeter.
Check the open load voltage of the battery it should be 12.6 volts.
Next place one lead from the meter to the center of the positive battery post and the other to the center lug B+ at the starter. Engage the starter read the voltage while engaged. It should be under 1 volt or there abouts. If you get a reading of lets say 6 volts theres a problem between the test points.

Next well check the ground side.
Find a bare spot(no paint) on the starter housing place one lead of the meter
on the housing the other on the negative center post of the battery. Engage the starter like before.
This time your looking for under .5 volts. Again like the above test if you see a major increase in voltage theres a problem.

Ok I think thats an good primer on the basics of voltage drops. You can also check the starter solenoid using the same method.

Believe me this test is deadly accurate even on late model cars.