Question on ignition switch

[Gordy]

What in the ignition switch/ key tumbler set up is it that "springs" the key back to the "Run" position when you release the key after the engine has started from the "Start" position? I have a steering column (out of the car) that seems like it has no "spring back" to what would be the run position. It has plenty of WD 40 on it so it's not stuck or rusted up. Does this sound like a switch problem or is it in the key/ tumbler assembly? Thanks for your help. Gordy

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by Gordy What in the ignition switch/ key tumbler set up is it that "springs" the key back to the "Run" position when you release the key after the engine has started from the "Start" position? I have a steering column (out of the car) that seems like it has no "spring back" to what would be the run position. It has plenty of WD 40 on it so it's not stuck or rusted up. Does this sound like a switch problem or is it in the key/ tumbler assembly? Thanks for your help. Gordy

Gordy, I've not been into a 50 series ignition switch but the GT's have a little pot metal piece that gets broken inside the switch. There is a small spring that pushes back against the piece that I'm referring to, once broken it may or may not line up to make it a real momentary switch. Wish I could give you better news. Human nature not common sense we (I) tend to twist the key harder when it's nothing is happening. The start and run functions may still work, you can test for this, you'll just have to make sure to turn the key back to the run position.

HTH,

Harold

[Gordy]

I'm sorry I did not mention that it is indeed a GT switch I am referring to. Does OGTS still rebuild ignition switches? I will shoot them an e mail.

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by Gordy I'm sorry I did not mention that it is indeed a GT switch I am referring to. Does OGTS still rebuild ignition switches? I will shoot them an e mail.

Ooooner had one rebuilt last year IIRC. When they rebuild them I don't know if they just go in and refurbish the contacts or if they actually have a new part to replace the broken one that I was referring to. I have a few exactly like you've described that I'd like to get fixed at some point if they have the capability. Keep me posted.

Thanks,
Harold

[Jeepsbeme]

As I was going though my steering column my DVOM revealed I had the classic GT ignition switch issue. With the key in the "Run" position I had around 60 ohms of continuity going from the B+ terminal to the starter circuit when it should have been an open circuit. I also had 4 ohms of resistance from the B+ terminal to the run circuit.

Although I seriously considered contacting OGTS to see if they still offered a rebuild service, instead I took a chance and thought I'd take it on myself - and am very glad I did.

1) Carefully drilling out the two rivets was a no-brainer.
2) There were two detent balls & springs that immediately fell out upon disassembly, but their original location was obvious.
3) The carbon tracks bridging the contacts were very visually apparent. They cleaned up very easily, then I polished the contacts with 600 grit paper, followed by the application of a good dielectric grease.
4) During reassembly position the metal case downward, then use a little dielectric grease to hold the detent balls/springs in place as the plastic half of the switch is lowered into place.
5) Use properly sized sheet metal screws in place of the original rivets to hold the switch halves together, then cut them off nearly flush after torquing them. I considered the use of pop rivets, but there's a good chance the plastic half of the switch will crack when seating them.


If you're reasonably mechanically inclined you'll find the ignition switch to be very easy to rebuild yourself (sorry OGTS!!). Of course if you find the pot metal piece broken you may be out of luck. It took me less than an hour working slowly and carefully to complete the refurbishing of a switch I've never seen before. But if you're not comfortable with semi-detailed projects of this type, $49 to OGTS is a reasonable price to pay for their service.

When finished, I now have "infinite resistance" between the B+ terminal to the starter circuit with the key in the "Run" position, and have essentially zero resistance from B+ to to the run terminal...and I saved $49 (plus shipping)!!!