What new alternator should I get?

[Redskinsjbs]

I'd like to upgrade the alternator in my GT, but I don't know what to do.

If you have any suggestions, can you please either give me a part number or a place where I can get the alternator?

I'd like to have a 60 amp alternator so that I have enough power to power an electric fan and various other new electronics.

[namba209]

Try this link, it is a rather long thread but should have all the info you need.

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/1a-star...rnator+upgrade

[Redskinsjbs]

Is there and alternator that is literally just a bolt in? I don't mind the wiring, I just don't want to have to buy or fabricate any other brackets. (I am currently chugging through that thread)

[Lindsay]

Online Auto Parts and Auto Accessories Store at PartsAmerica.com list P/N 13050 alternator for 1975 Manta.
$68.99 + $20 core. It is a 50 Amp alternator; direct fit.
Google "discount coupons partsamerica" to locate 15% discount.

Opel GT Source has high amp alternators; direct fit.
Call them for latest information and prices.

5022 ALTERNATOR
Rebuilt. Specify 35 amps, 45 amps, or 55 amps. Core required. 129.00
5022-65 ALTERNATOR, HI OUTPUT
Rebuilt using Bosch 65 amps internal components. Core required. 150.00
5022-IR ALTERNATOR INTERNALLY REGULATED
Rebuilt Late 80's Opel high output regulated alternator, 45 amps. 149.00

[Dale .D]

I went with the highest output external regulated alternator.It's fine to run everything plus a stereo without external amp,But anything more than that especially a electric fan & you'll need a high output internally regulated alt. Probably wired to a one wire system.This is an upgrade that I should of done & may do later.Better to do it now.Good luck.

[Redskinsjbs]

So are there any one wire 60 amp alternators that will bolt right in?

[Dale .D]

Personally.I think you'll need 100 + amp alternator if you have the electric rad fan.Info should be here somewhere in the search ect

[namba209]

Originally Posted by Redskinsjbs So are there any one wire 60 amp alternators that will bolt right in?

OGTS probably has one. Read Lindsay's post in this thread.

[Gordy]

I went with the OGTS 65 amp on both of my GTs. Bolts in, plugs in, and you know it's correct. With the lights and blower plus wipers going at the same time, it still is charging.

[OpelNewb]

You should check into having your alternator rebuilt with newer parts they can upgrade your alternator. I am just not sure how much they could get out of it. Look in your phone book for places that rebuild them. I have had luck doing that before.

[guyopel]

I use the 105 amp GM Alt. you replace the lower bracket
( 10$ ) and wiring is simple to do and you get rid of the
voltage regulator on the brake pedal brace and the 105 amp. Alt.is smaller than the Opel Alt. and the 60 amp. Alt. HTH
John

[markandson]

If you are interested I have a brand new 1 wire 65amp alt with the "F" bracket for the bottom mount and a custom fabricated chrome top bracket. I would need to look up the cost of all the stuff but it would be in the neighborhood of $150, I think the chrome upper bracket alone is about $55 of the total. I can post pictures of the whole thing if you want.

[Redskinsjbs]

Hey guys. Would this alternator work?

Smoking Tire Products HIT-100 - Chrome 100 Amp Alternators By Hitachi - summitracing.com

Its on sale down to $80 from $130

[markandson]

Ignore the money and go for p/n PWM-178611 it fits perfectly with the "F" bracket on the bottom and the stock bracket on the top. It is also a powermaster chrome alt and is a beautiful piece to look at.

[Redskinsjbs]

so will the one I found not fit with those brackets?

[markandson]

Originally Posted by Redskinsjbs so will the one I found not fit with those brackets?

Cant' answer this question myself but I do know that the CS-130 alternators are of a newer design than the 10-SI alternators and I believe that the CS-130 has more current capability at lower rpms than the 10-SI ones do. There is a thread called Alternator/Headlight upgrade that you should read it covers alternator swap info.

[RallyBob]

One thing I haven't seen mentioned is the charging line wire gauge. If you are going to install a high amp alternator and USE the extra amperage capacity, then the stock 10 gauge wire is insufficient, as well the fusible links are just going to burn up.

Better to start thinking about 8 gauge or even 6 gauge wire and perhaps a couple of inline fuses or circuit breakers in lieu of fusible link wire. If you never approach the limits of your new high amp alternator in terms of current draw, then you're okay, but otherwise....

Bob

[Redskinsjbs]

Bob-

I was simply looking for a more reliable alternator.

not that the one I have now is unreliable, but I'd like to have brighter headlights and be able to use the windshield wipers on a dark rainy night!!!

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by Redskinsjbs Bob- I was simply looking for a more reliable alternator. not that the one I have now is unreliable, but I'd like to have brighter headlights and be able to use the windshield wipers on a dark rainy night!!!

No problem. I understand competely, the GM alternators run at a slightly higher voltage than the stock Opel/Bosch unit and definitely make your lights brighter. And once installed, it's nice to know if it burns out you can get a new or rebuilt one at any local auto parts store. Not always an option with stock Opel stuff!

I'm personally an advocate of extreme auxiliary lighting, so I've been know to 'kill' stock Opel alternators quite frequently! Which is probably why I always need larger gauge wiring...

[Redskinsjbs]

Originally Posted by RallyBob No problem. I understand competely, the GM alternators run at a slightly higher voltage than the stock Opel/Bosch unit and definitely make your lights brighter. And once installed, it's nice to know if it burns out you can get a new or rebuilt one at any local auto parts store. Not always an option with stock Opel stuff! I'm personally an advocate of extreme auxiliary lighting, so I've been know to 'kill' stock Opel alternators quite frequently! Which is probably why I always need larger gauge wiring...

Well I was thinking about putting on a second set of fog/driving lights, and I am going to redo all of the wiring eventually (There is time this winter) So i will most likely over-size every wire that may get more power than it could originally handle (That means almost every wire) I also bought a new fuse box, so when I get the higher output alternator, all of the higher charge ciruits will go through that one instead of the stock fuse box (That also means that I can split up some of the circuits because I'll have 10 more fuses WOO WOO for added protection!!!)

So, I was thinking that that alternator would fit with the opel bracket and the "F" bracket because it has the 12 0'clock mounting wholes (I think).
And I like it because it has 3 times the original power and is SHINY!!! Plus, its cheap.

[mc1457]

Parts Required:

CS130 Alternator (Gold-Duralast) - Autozone part number DLG1345-6-7
CS130 Alternator Pigtail (Painless) - Summit Racing part number PRF-30707
Alternator F-bracket (Spectre) - Autozone part number 42273

Installation:

The alternator is a 105amp Gold-Duralast unit, part number DLG1345-6-7 that I sourced from AutoZone for $130. This is a CS-130 alternator, not the CS-130D. You must have this right when you order the (~ $20) pigtail. I ordered the CS-130D pigtail which does not fit. Get Painless part number 30707, which fits the CS-130.

Installation was relatively easy. First, get two M10x1.5 30 mm bolts with a tensile strength of 10 or higher. The OEM bolts are too long and will bottom out in the bolt hole. You will need to modify the Spectre F-bracket: the hole toward the front of the car must be elongated about 5mm toward the rear of the car (the bolts are closer together than the holes in the bracket). Remove the upper alternator bracket and grind the lower edge about 1/8-3/16" narrower or it will rub the fan.

Prep the alternator - remove the pulley and install the stock pulley from the old alternator. This is relatively straight-forward, but you will need to get a couple of washers to shim the pulley so it doesn't crush the fan. I was able to do this with a couple washers I picked up at the local auto parts store that were a near-perfect fit.

Installing the alternator is straight-forward with one minor caveat: install the belt on the pulley before bolting it in or you'll have a devil of a time getting it onto the pulley. The original belt is the perfect size.

Once installed, connect the alternator wire to the main lug, then splice in your Painless 30707 connector (instructions to follow - I haven't done it yet).

Notes on the 30707 connector: one lead goes to the exciter wire (needs a 12V source that is not off of the ignition). The other goes to the idiot light. If your idiot light, like mine, is an LED you may need to install a resistor between the two wires. If you don't plan to use the idiot light then you definitely need the resistor. (will post exact wiring diagrams once I puzzle all this out).

[markandson]

Originally Posted by mc1457 Parts Required: CS130 Alternator (Gold-Duralast) - Autozone part number DLG1345-6-7 CS130 Alternator Pigtail (Painless) - Summit Racing part number PRF-30707 Alternator F-bracket (Spectre) - Autozone part number 42273 Installation: The alternator is a 105amp Gold-Duralast unit, part number DLG1345-6-7 that I sourced from AutoZone for $130. This is a CS-130 alternator, not the CS-130D. You must have this right when you order the (~ $20) pigtail. I ordered the CS-130D pigtail which does not fit. Get Painless part number 30707, which fits the CS-130. Installation was relatively easy. First, get two M10x1.5 30 mm bolts with a tensile strength of 10 or higher. The OEM bolts are too long and will bottom out in the bolt hole. You will need to modify the Spectre F-bracket: the hole toward the front of the car must be elongated about 5mm toward the rear of the car (the bolts are closer together than the holes in the bracket). Remove the upper alternator bracket and grind the lower edge about 1/8-3/16" narrower or it will rub the fan. Prep the alternator - remove the pulley and install the stock pulley from the old alternator. This is relatively straight-forward, but you will need to get a couple of washers to shim the pulley so it doesn't crush the fan. I was able to do this with a couple washers I picked up at the local auto parts store that were a near-perfect fit. Installing the alternator is straight-forward with one minor caveat: install the belt on the pulley before bolting it in or you'll have a devil of a time getting it onto the pulley. The original belt is the perfect size. Once installed, connect the alternator wire to the main lug, then splice in your Painless 30707 connector (instructions to follow - I haven't done it yet). Notes on the 30707 connector: one lead goes to the exciter wire (needs a 12V source that is not off of the ignition). The other goes to the idiot light. If your idiot light, like mine, is an LED you may need to install a resistor between the two wires. If you don't plan to use the idiot light then you definitely need the resistor. (will post exact wiring diagrams once I puzzle all this out).

Mike,
If you haven't read this thread.