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Old 06-15-2009   #1 (permalink)
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Unanswered: Ignition lock (switch) needs replacing

Gents,

I am facing a (common?) problem with a worn out ignition lock. It is difficult to start the car and only by trying several times I get contact. The car can stop even if I hit a bump in the road
Somebody told me I need to change the ignition lock so if there are anyone out there with a spare ignition lock (with a key) I would like to buy it.
Or if anyone knows where to get a "new"/used one it woulld be highly appreciated. I can't afford to loose a single day of the short Norwegian summer
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Old 06-15-2009   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by NorwegianGT View Post
Gents,

I am facing a (common?) problem with a worn out ignition lock. It is difficult to start the car and only by trying several times I get contact. The car can stop even if I hit a bump in the road
Somebody told me I need to change the ignition lock so if there are anyone out there with a spare ignition lock (with a key) I would like to buy it.
Or if anyone knows where to get a "new"/used one it woulld be highly appreciated. I can't afford to loose a single day of the short Norwegian summer
You don't need a new ignition "lock". You need a new or reconditioned ignition switch. They are separate components and often confused.
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Old 06-15-2009   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for your reply! Do you know where to get these parts and can you please tell more in detail what I need from your experience?
I thought buying a complete ignition lock would be easiest, but then again I need to carry two different keys etc..
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Old 06-15-2009   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by NorwegianGT View Post
Thanks for your reply! Do you know where to get these parts and can you please tell more in detail what I need from your experience?
I thought buying a complete ignition lock would be easiest, but then again I need to carry two different keys etc..
I have no idea where you would buy one in Oslo. In the US we would go to OpelGTsource.com and ask them.
If you ordered an ignition lock, it doesn't come with the switch so your problem wouldn't be fixed.
I am sure someone on this forum would have a better idea than I do about where to get parts closer to Oslo. (I have to say I don't even know where Oslo is).
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Old 06-15-2009   #5 (permalink)
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You do not have to change the whole lock. Opel GT Source can rebuild the electrical part of your switch. Sending this piece of starter switch is easy and inexpensive in a padded envelope. Once you receive it back, add the relay (Otto Start) and you will be fine for the extended period of time.
Thread on the removal of ignition switch is here:
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/1a-star...h-removal.html
Attached Files
File Type: pdf IgnitonSwitchRelayTechTip.pdf (371.4 KB, 14 views)

Last edited by P.J. Romano; 06-15-2009 at 05:11 PM.
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Old 06-15-2009   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by P.J. Romano View Post
You do not have to change the whole lock. Opel GT Source can rebuild the electrical part of your switch. Sending this piece of starter switch is easy and inexpensive in a padded envelope. Once you receive it back, add the relay (Otto Start) and you will be fine for the extended period of time.
Thread on the removal of ignition switch is here:
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/1a-star...h-removal.html
I`ll have to agree on what`s said here. Also, Opel GT Source is very reliable and fast. They have my warmest recommendations.

Oh, and BTW, Oslo is the capitol of Norway.
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Old 06-15-2009   #7 (permalink)
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A more applicable article download is below:

www.opelclub.com/SteeringColumnApr2006.pdf
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Old 06-16-2009   #8 (permalink)
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Ignition Switch Repair Thread

Here is the swithc repair thread posted by 'Nobody' long ago:

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/1a-star...h-repairs.html
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Old 06-16-2009   #9 (permalink)
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Before you conclude that any switch is repairable (by seeing photos of the above thread, for example), an important consideration of the durability of a repair is the actual condition of internal parts of a switch (which are only seen when it is disassembled). This includes wear on the contact points, stress fractures on the metal cam, and integrity of the plastic backing plate.
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