Alternator/Headlight Upgrade

[namba209]

I would think a fuseable link on the Red output wire is all that is needed. IDK why Opel put one on the Blue/White wire, other than it also powers the rear window heater. General rule of thumb for fuseable link is a percentage of the original wire size, but I don't have that info available, mayhap someone else remembers.

[rowdygt]

Figured it out...fusible link wire, 4 size smaller than what you tie into

[markandson]

I decided that the 65amp Alt that I bought already was not only not "pretty" enough for my engine compartment but that it might not have enough juice to run all the stuff I am adding to my car. I searched for a while and finally found what I believe is the perfect alternator for our GTs. I bought the chrome one which is truly a work of art. Check out www.summitracing.com and look for part number PWM-178611. It is a CS-130 one wire chevy chrome alternator with the bracket bolt located at 11:00 which makes the Opel original straight bracket a perfect fit. I think that possibly the original bottom pivot bracket may work as well, but I still have to verify that. I am sure they also have this model available in standard finish which would be much less expensive. The vehicle that this alternator is listed for is a 1988 Chevy Caprice with a 5.0L (305CI).

[Phoenix]

This is the same unit that I bought from Advanced Auto (Special Order) for the C/K truck which is pretty much what I thought, that most GM cars use that alternator or have that alternator as an option.

[guyopel]

Jeff , The bottom Opel bracket will not work for the GM alt. that you have but there is a chrome chevy. lower bracket that will work ( using spacers to move the alt. forward for belt alignment ) .Pep Boys # 42273 bracket ( Spectre is the brand ) was $7.99 w/ bolts . I have photos posted on how to modify this bracket . Good luck .
John

[markandson]

Originally Posted by guyopel Jeff , The bottom Opel bracket will not work for the GM alt. that you have but there is a chrome chevy. lower bracket that will work ( using spacers to move the alt. forward for belt alignment ) .Pep Boys # 42273 bracket ( Spectre is the brand ) was $7.99 w/ bolts . I have photos posted on how to modify this bracket . Good luck . John

John,
I have the chrome chevy bracket and the spacers installed, when I looked at the old alt and the dimensions it appeared like the old bracket might work with the new alt. The new one came with a bushing for the bottom mounting hole that reduces the bolt size down to the Opel 8mm(I Think) bolt, just thought that I would try it to see what it looks like.

[jvandyke]

What about the 10Si (10SI 10Sl) ? 105 amps, cheap, too big?

[markandson]

Originally Posted by jvandyke What about the 10Si (10SI 10Sl) ? 105 amps, cheap, too big?

If you decide not to use the one I have available then what I would do is call Summit Racing, tell them you want a non-chrome alternator equivalent to the one I posted above and they will get you the part number and cost.

[jvandyke]

Not listed at Summit but Rockauto has. Interesting that the Spectra Premium version says 11:00, others don't and the pictures of the others look like the normal 3:00 position.

[markandson]

Originally Posted by jvandyke Not listed at Summit but Rockauto has. Interesting that the Spectra Premium version says 11:00, others don't and the pictures of the others look like the normal 3:00 position.

Look at RockAuto part number 1886099 which is NEW. #1866099 is Reman., I would go for new if I was you.

[jvandyke]

Stripping off original alternator, all is well except can't get upper bracket off block. Allen head bolt came loose alright, now spins freely lots of play in bracket but won't actually separate from block. Is there a trick to this? I've put some outward pressure via screwdriver/mini pry bar and it won't come off.

[oldopelguy]

Originally Posted by jvandyke Stripping off original alternator, all is well except can't get upper bracket off block. Allen head bolt came loose alright, now spins freely lots of play in bracket but won't actually separate from block. Is there a trick to this? I've put some outward pressure via screwdriver/mini pry bar and it won't come off.

There's the nut on the back side by the distributor, you are holding it right?

[markandson]

Originally Posted by jvandyke Stripping off original alternator, all is well except can't get upper bracket off block. Allen head bolt came loose alright, now spins freely lots of play in bracket but won't actually separate from block. Is there a trick to this? I've put some outward pressure via screwdriver/mini pry bar and it won't come off.

It is a bolt and a nut, don't pry, you will bend it, the bolt is long.

[jvandyke]

Oh, crap. Yes, I see it's actually a long bolt that passes all the way through the timing chain cover, part of block and has a nut on the end. Duh. I was working off the assumption it was a bolt into a threaded hole. Yes, well, yeah, okay. Duh. It's off now.
I'm taking the alternator and brackets into a shop tomorrow and see what I can cobble together.
Thanks again.
I feel like the master of stupid questions lately........

[namba209]

Actually, the only dumb question is the one that isn't asked. Simple. If you don't know how to do something or it's giving you fits, ask away. If you knew how, you wouldn't be asking.

[jvandyke]

Yes, no one knows that better then me lately!
In honor of this truth I have revived my original signature.

[opelbits]

j-

After you get the bolt out, check to make sure the hole in the timing cover is not wallowed out. Usually the vibration ovals the front hole and the alternator is not held as tight as it should be. I have found this before and fixed it by drilling the hole slightly larger for a bronze bushing to slide in, but only deep enough for the bushing, not all the way thru.

[jvandyke]

There's one of these on ebay cheap but I'm not sure if it would be a good candidate. Says for '94 Cavalier 105 amp, I think it's a 12SI, internal regulator, easy hook up? Just not sure what it is.
AutoZone.com | Shopping | Parts | Product Detail - Alternator
Cheap is good but the wrong one is a hassle.

[Dale .D]

Hello .I know this has been discussed alot BUt I'd like to find out if there's any new updates on this since 2002.Everything I've seen on this is fairly old.Still might be dead on but I wanted to find out before proceeding.So I'm interested in the 1 wire self regulated alternator upgrades.Delco or what ever. Any down loads on step by step stuff & model numbers ect.Thanks for any added info.

[jvandyke]

I've been recently dredging up this topic in this thread
Delco 10SI are good, 12SI bit more amps. The CS series work too I guess but are more $$. Internal regulator model is what you want, I just asked about one tonight (see thread) since there's one on ebay cheap but I don't know about internal regulator on that one. I pulled my old one off today as I gear up for the mod.

[jvandyke]

Here's a DL1345, note the location of hole for sliding mount. One on ebay is linked above, not a DL, don't know the difference. Maybe use original upper bracket? I'll have to call Autozone and see if they can tell me more about it. '94 Cavalier, should be internal regulator no?

[guyopel]

That Alt. should work and use the Chevy. lower bracket and you can use the stock Opel adjusting bracket .Look at my photos of Alts. in my Gallery for lower bracket mods. Besure to get the plugin that matches your Alt.
HTH
John

[guyopel]

The new style Alt. is smaller and has a higher output and has a internal voltage reg. , so cleans up the driver side of the eng. compartment . HTH
John

[jvandyke]

Alright, I bought the ebay one, NIB shipped for $35, that's hard to beat for 105amp I suppose. Hope to use the Opel top bracket but the alternator's hole for the adjuster is more like 10:00 as compared to Opel's at 11:00 and most GMs at 12:00. Maybe swivel it out a bit and get a longer belt. We'll see. Wonder if Opel's pulley will swap over. As for plug, another we'll see.
Thanks.

[namba209]

Most auto parts stores carry plugs for the alternators with pigtails on them so you can splice them into your existing harness. It's just a matter of figuring which one of the wires you use to excite the internal regulator.