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Old 07-12-2002   #1 (permalink)
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Unanswered: Ignition Switch Removal

I need to remove the ignition switch on my 69 GT, as I dont have the key, and would like to get one made. Is it possible to remove the thing without the key? All of the manuals say that you need to turn the key to pop the switch out. Will I have to take the column out and take it to have a key made? Hopefully there is an easier way. Thanks, Adam Marshall
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Old 07-12-2002   #2 (permalink)
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You may not even have to remove the column at all to have a key made. If you car is origional, remove the door locks instead and have keys made from them, they will work in the ignition too. If not, or as a back-up, get the # code off the tumbler set and any good locksmith should be able to make you a key without even seeing your locks. I can't remember off hand how hard it is to get to the # code on a GT ignition, but looking for some #'s is easier then removing the column.

I was able to remove the lock without the key on my GT, but I honestly can't remember enough of how I did it to be able to offer advice. It can be done, though, if necessary somehow.

Good luck!
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Old 12-29-2002   #3 (permalink)
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Ignition Switch Removal

I do believe there has been a thread on how to remove the switch but now that I need it I cant seem to find it. Would someone be so kind as to tell me how to get the ignition switch out of my 71 GT. Thanks a lot.
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Old 12-30-2002   #4 (permalink)
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Uuhhh? I guess Gary put these together?? but it doesnt help me any. Does anyone know how to do this with the key?? Thanks.
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Old 12-30-2002   #5 (permalink)
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I did a search and found the exact topic so they were combined.

Replacing the switch involves removing the steering wheel, removing the lock assembly, then taking the column sleeve off. The step by step explanation is a little involved. If my scanner was working I'd scan the steps from the manual for you.

Here is a pic of Tekenaar's wheel puller that was made by grinding down a hex bolt:
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Old 12-30-2002   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks Gary. I have the wheel off as I have a puller that will work. But I cant get the ignition switch out and neither can I locate threads on this site or the classicopels site on yahoo that give directions on removing the ignition switch. I hope someone can give me the directions. How about just describing what the manual says about removing it for me? I have a clymers and a chiltons but neither of them give the directions. I also have a 68 kadette manual but same thing. Thanks for your help.
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Old 12-30-2002   #7 (permalink)
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OK.

1 Remove the Wheel
2. Remove the Ignition lock cylinder.
A. Put key in "Run" position
B. Using a piece of stiff wire, push in the lock retaining pin and pull out the cylinder. The retaining pin hole is located at about 5:00.
C. Disconnect the White set plug.
D. Remove lock retaining screw (Next to pin hole)
E. Remove directional lever.
F. Remove three housing cover screws.
G. Remove cover.
H. Remove switch.

When installing Make sure switch is in the "Run" position by truning it with a phillips head screwdriver unti the spring resistance is felt.

There is more detail on removing the housing cover but it looks like it is for the '69 with the high beam switch in the directional stalk. Let me know if you need more.
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Old 12-31-2002   #8 (permalink)
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Here's a pic of the Lock removal:
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Old 12-31-2002   #9 (permalink)
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Gary, thanks a lot for your help. I got the cylinder out today and disassembled the internals and cleaned up contacts. I have the ignition switch working properly now. I appreciate your help with this.
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Old 01-01-2003   #10 (permalink)
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If you add a relay in the circuit, the switch contacts won't see all the current needed to activate the solenoid.
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Old 11-02-2003   #11 (permalink)
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Initial question not answered

i have been looking through the forums and found exactly what I was looking for,,,,except the original thread (or question) has no answer.

i am trying to remove the ignition switch WITHOUT the Key. Can this be done? and how?

Thanks Jennifer
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Old 11-02-2003   #12 (permalink)
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I don't see how because the key has to be rotated in order for that pin to push in. Forcing it in will most likely damage it. Know anyone that picks locks? oldopelguy had a good suggestion for getting a key made.
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Old 11-02-2003   #13 (permalink)
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I am trying to take this one out and put mine in. This steering wheel column, wires, everything is in better condition then the one in my car. But I only have the key to mine, not this one.
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Old 11-02-2003   #14 (permalink)
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Ok I have that whole assembly in my hands and the lock cylinder pin will push in with no key. I do remember pulling this one from a 71 and it was pretty stuck until I gave it a good tap. Once it is out you can do whatever you want. Then again if you only want it out, a slide hammer will shear that little pin and yours will go right in.
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Old 11-02-2003   #15 (permalink)
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well, no key and no way to get one made? Drill the pin out if it wont push in but be very carefull not to enlarge the pinhole or it will wiggle around when you put the other one in. I am understanding you correct, right? you dont need the one thats in there now just the whole cylinder housing for a different key assembly.

nobody, are you saying that even without the key to rotate the key assembly, your pin will push in anyway?
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Old 11-02-2003   #16 (permalink)
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yes I am looking right at it. I have no key for this one and it goes in and out of the housing for it easily. Paperclip is all I need to remove it. No key.
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Old 11-02-2003   #17 (permalink)
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I wonder if it is broken, will a key still go all the way in
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Old 11-02-2003   #18 (permalink)
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Thanks Guys, I took a hammer and tool I have and beat that thing out of there.


Easy as pie. Course wouldn't be a good way it you need that switch. lol

Jennifer
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Old 11-02-2003   #19 (permalink)
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but it was fun huh?

And yes Jim a key will still go in all the way.
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Old 11-03-2003   #20 (permalink)
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For those of you just coming into the thread, I have been trying to get the key assembley out of the housing without the key. I did by taking a sharp tool and hitting it with a hammer on the pin. IT WORKED...

Now I have put in the key assembly I had the key to. Put it all back together in the new steering column I aquired and installed it all back in the car.


Here is the new problem

1st.....when you turn the key once, shouldn't most components come on...like radio, guages etc......(without starting engine I mean)

2nd.....when I turn the key to start the engine it grinds, like trying to start an already running car.

Anyone know why this is doing this??

Jennifer
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Old 11-04-2003   #21 (permalink)
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By any chance did you swap the column electrical when you did this? What you desribed sounds like a bad switch. Check your plugs around the fuse box and make sure your battery is charged up. Those can cause what your describing.
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Old 11-04-2003   #22 (permalink)
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didn't you say you took apart the round electrical switch and cleaned the contacts? Electrical should come on when you turn the switch on. At first I thought the grinding must be the starter going and it is just coincedence that you had just had it all apart, but does anyboby know what would happen if you got a couple wires reversed in the round e- switch? Sorry, I can't be of more help.
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Old 11-04-2003   #23 (permalink)
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switch

when you dissasemble switch..2 bearings will fall out..good luck..
I could not repair mine ..as there is a broken ear that supports the return spring..returns the key from start back to run

why dont you hotwire the ignition and bypass the switch...
you can still use your key to lock the wheel..A pushbutton start is FUN
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Thank you members of opelgt.com for helping me on a 5 year reconstruction of the most beautiful car in the world
Celeste: 1917,cc ,getrag resealed, 2liter Intake valves,ported,ISKY cam on solids,Opel forged rods,9.52 compression,total seal gapless,oil dam,RB gasket mod., DCOE side drafts,sprint,2in straight exhaust,pertronix,OMNI paint,SACHS clutch,OGTS & Kadette sway bars,Manta finned pan,3 V clock,Ball joints and Poly all... SAA-WEET!
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Old 11-04-2003   #24 (permalink)
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hopes this helps

no ..my gt is not like'yxy'..but i am driving it and having a blast
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Thank you members of opelgt.com for helping me on a 5 year reconstruction of the most beautiful car in the world
Celeste: 1917,cc ,getrag resealed, 2liter Intake valves,ported,ISKY cam on solids,Opel forged rods,9.52 compression,total seal gapless,oil dam,RB gasket mod., DCOE side drafts,sprint,2in straight exhaust,pertronix,OMNI paint,SACHS clutch,OGTS & Kadette sway bars,Manta finned pan,3 V clock,Ball joints and Poly all... SAA-WEET!
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Old 11-04-2003   #25 (permalink)
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I have not done anything to the electrical switch. The car started today, but the grinding occured several times when I attempted to start the car. Is it possible that when I put the electrical switch back on the end on the key assembly, I didn't turn it right. The manual says to turn it with a screwdriver til I feel the spring???

Jennifer

The car wouldn't start if the switch was bad. Right??
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