Fusible Links

[soybean]

OK... am thinking I have a pretty good grasp on this all,. but what I would like to know is, has anybody yet to come up with a decent replacement/alternative to the GT fuse block? I have always hated it, esp since I somehow seem to manage to dislodge a fuse from time to time. And when I say decent, I mean a block that can easily be installed using the current(no pun intended) wiring, screws, terminals, etc. If not, why don't we work on coming up with a decent alternative. Would be a great seller/money maker for the site, plus I am sure would sell well elsewhere(e-bay) as well. If this has already been broached, forgive my repetition. But I would think with all the engineering knowledge and farbrication skills present, this should have been resolved long ago. It may not be 'factory/original', but I think would be one modification that would be both welcome for its safety, if not convenience?
JAT...
Brett

Here is a thread dealing with just what you are talking about. Hth, Jarrell
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/1d-wiri...highlight=wire

[Bill Hoffmann]

That is exactly how I want to have my auxillary lighting and electrical additions, I want to install a small gang fuse block under the hood but I can not get a definate answer if it is ok to draw power to that from the starter stud or the battery itself

For your ammeter to read correctly, you should draw power from the B+ terminal (output) of the alternator, the same way the other circuits do. I would recommend getting a 14 gauge fusible link with an eyelet on one end for the alternator stud, and splice the other end to a 10 gauge wire to supply your under-hood fuse block.

-Bill

[soybean]

Here is some good reading on this site. HTh, Jarrell
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

[kwilford]

Hate to tell you but the load is always between the source and the ground, if the load is not between them its not in the ckt. Likewise a short is also always between the source and the ground. Where else could they be?

I think Bill has answered this very well. But I think I will add a scenario, in circuit order:
1) positive terminal on the alternator (source)
2) fusible link
3) wire to fuse block
4) fuse block
5) wire to load (say radio)
6) radio
7) wire to ground
8) ground

Working backwards:

a) short from 7) to ground: no effect, current draw same as without short
b) short from 5) to ground: fuse blows (fusible link doesn't)
c) short from 3) to ground: fusible link blows

If scenario c) occurs WITHOUT a fusible link in place, the wire BETWEEN the source and the load melts down. Which is why the fusible link is immediately before ANY such wires, in FRONT of the fuse box, immediately NEXT to the source.

JM2CW

[brads]

Well now, don't I look foolish. But hey, thanks to all for stepping in and correcting me and maybe saving Maglinjosvinn's hiney. Or at least his wires anyway. But remember, I did ask the electrician at work and that's what he said. Hmmm, sounds like he didn't tell me the rest of the story huh. Not that I think he was lying to me or anything, probably just trying to bring it down to the level he thought a simple minded guy like me could understand. Still, I got a lot of interesting info. out of this. I always wondered what a fusable link was made out of and such. And according to bq97, they're just a lighter gauge of wire. Four steps lighter to be exact. Very interesting. Oh well, at least I didn't kill anybody. Still, sorry about that Maglinjosvinn.

Brad

[maglinjosvinn]

*grins* i take everything with a grain of salt.

for instance, my alternator install? it works. definately NOT how it was posted. theblue white wire dropped the current to the voltage regulator (from teh bulb apparetnly) enough to make it so it wouldn't 'excite'. the solution was a relay, running hte 30 post to the starter, and the switch posts to ground and the fuseblock where 'key on power' is located. end result: COOL!

heh.2 weeks of reading, 2 days of install. usually how it goes.