Ignition switch problems...I think

[lewdawg]

Finishing up a 70 GT and have a problem with the ignition switch... I think and was looking for some advice. The ignition switch is pretty sloppy, the key has to be in just the right spot to turn. When I turn the key to the "on position" the starter engages...not all the time but most of the time. When it doesn't engage the starter in "on" and I turn it to start the starter engages as it is suppose to but does not disengage when it goes back to the on position. My guess is the ignition switch since I have gone over the wiring and everything seems to be right. Any sugestions would be great. Looked through the other threads and didn't find anything that addresses this problem so I did look...before someone tell me to use the search...

[69whitegt]

Sounds like that is the problem. Make shure that you get the right kind. If I recall there is 3 differnet types. OGTS shows the different ones and how they are different.

[baronbors]

Send the core to OGTS and they will re-build it for you

[Anonymous D]

GT Ignition Switch diagnosis procedure here:
http://www.opelclub.com/html/opel_gt_ignition_tips.html

GT Ignition Switch cleaning and correct assembly
instructions, are in an article in the April 2006 OMC Blitz
newsletter.

[imamachine]

I have the exact same problem (a week after adding the relay)...what did you wind up doing?

[lkyrog]

After adding ottostart everything worked fine on my 71 gt, 6 months later I started having intermittant engaging of the starter when switch was turned to the on (run) position....so i decided to partially disassemble the steering column and cleaned the switch as per OMC article. Now the starter engages all the time when in the on (run) position.
Has this happened to anyone else? Is the only solution (save bypassing to momentary switch) sending switch to OGTS?
If not do you just desolder wires at the switch and send or disconnect and send the whole harness?
Temporarily i am going to bypass so i can drive it this summer then send to OGTS this fall/winter
thanks in advance for the feedback!

[namba209]

I don't really remember what I sent them when i had my switch repaired, best bet is to give them a call and ask what they want/need to fix yours.

[lkyrog]

ok...will do.
thx

[Lindsay]

OPEL Gods have been kind to me. I never had to remove an ignition switch from steering column. I kept extra steering column to practice with someday.

[nobody]

there is a good ignition switch left over from Quasar. If you need directions as to it's exact location just ask. Sorry folks, it's a salt lake thing. This is only for Mark and the ladies.

[Anonymous D]

If a switch engages the starter continuously in the ('on") "run" position, it either means:

(1) the switch was not installed correctly (it's 90 degrees too forward on the "cross-shapped connector" rod) or that

(2) the switch does not have circuit "isolation" between the "start" and ("on") "run" positions (which means that you need to check it with an ohm meter, to verify resistance is infinite between the black/red striped wire and the solid red color wires, in the "run" position). The ("on") "run" position is what the switch should spring back to, after engaging the most forward "start" position.

The test for (2) is in the January 2006 OMC Blitz, and if this test shows infinite ohms in the ("on") "run" position -- (meaning the switch is good), then the procedure for resetting the rod to correct (1) is in the April 2006 Blitz.

Both articles are accessed as downloads, here:

Electrical System

If test (2) shows less than infinite ohms in the ("on") "run" position, then the switch needs to be replaced with a known good switch, or the switch needs to be rebuilt.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by Anonymous D If a switch engages the starter continuously in the ('on") "run" position, it either means: (1) the switch was not installed correctly (it's 90 degrees too forward on the "cross-shapped connector" rod) or that (2) the switch does not have circuit "isolation" between the "start" and ("on") "run" positions (which means that you need to check it with an ohm meter, to verify resistance is infinite between the black/red striped wire and the solid red color wires, in the "run" position). The ("on") "run" position is what the switch should spring back to, after engaging the most forward "start" position. The test for (2) is in the January 2006 OMC Blitz, and if this test shows infinite ohms in the ("on") "run" position -- (meaning the switch is good), then the procedure for resetting the rod to correct (1) is in the April 2006 Blitz. Both articles are accessed as downloads, here: Electrical System If test (2) shows less than infinite ohms in the ("on") "run" position, then the switch needs to be replaced with a known good switch, or the switch needs to be rebuilt.

. . . and I would add that, if you have an OttoStart or homebuilt "ignition switch Start contact saver" relay installed, any carbon tracking between the ignition switch "On/Run" and "Start" contacts will allow enough current to pass to pick the relay and cause the starter to stay engaged after the ignition switch has returned to the "On/Run" position. It takes only a few "carbon tracking" milliamps to pick the relay coil while those same few milliamps are not sufficient by themselves to keep a starter solenoid engaged!

[lkyrog]

Originally Posted by tekenaar . . . and I would add that, if you have an OttoStart or homebuilt "ignition switch Start contact saver" relay installed, any carbon tracking between the ignition switch "On/Run" and "Start" contacts will allow enough current to pass to pick the relay and cause the starter to stay engaged after the ignition switch has returned to the "On/Run" position. It takes only a few "carbon tracking" milliamps to pick the relay coil while those same few milliamps are not sufficient by themselves to keep a starter solenoid engaged!

I do have an OttoStart installed...I will measure resistance and maybe clean the contacts a little better (Use a whole can of CRC).
Thanks Otto....makes sense to me now