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Old 10-31-2006   #1 (permalink)
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Unanswered: Arcing and Sparking

Hey Guys!! I have just purchased a 1970 Opel GTand in need of some help. Every so often as I make a turn I get some Arcing and Sparking from behind the steering wheel can any one help me out. what can I do to stop this from burning my car up.
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Old 10-31-2006   #2 (permalink)
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Time to look under the dash , at the fuse box and wiring
for the ing. switch .
Where in Atl. are you ?
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Old 10-31-2006   #3 (permalink)
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sounds like some horn wire insulation has worn through on the column or the switch for the turn signal time to get the screw drivers out and play
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Old 10-31-2006   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by baz View Post
sounds like some horn wire insulation has worn through on the column or the switch for the turn signal time to get the screw drivers out and play
if it was the horn wire the horn would honk the horn is ground switched
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Old 10-31-2006   #5 (permalink)
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true
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Old 10-31-2006   #6 (permalink)
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You didn't say if the turn signals were on at the time of the arcing and sparking, but I'll say there are 3 hot wires in the steering column with the key on and any of those could have the insulation worn enuff that you're grounding one of them by turning the wheel. Best bet is to pull the steering wheel. Here you have to be very careful, the steering column is soft metal and the threaded part can be damaged. Use the search function and read up on steering wheel pullers, you'll have to make a set of adapters for the hub, fairly easy to do, and use extreme care using the puller. I made mine out of a couple of long bolts and filed the heads of the bolts to match the oval slots in the hub. Once you get the wheel off you can ohm out the wires in the harness and find out which one(s) are grounding out and insulate them. HTH.
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Old 10-31-2006   #7 (permalink)
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Previous post is right, the turn signal and horn are low potential circuits with fuses that would blow under minimal arcing, so I'd suspect something connected to the ignition switch as well.

I recently pulled the wheel on my Manta with a generic (GM) wheel puller I bought at Pep Boys for $15. Apparently, most other GM cars have threaded holes in the wheel you can just screw right into, but for my Opel all I had to do was buy a couple 5/16 nuts which fit handily into hex recesses in the back of the wheel and the puller work just fine. Without the puller, the wheel feels like it is on tighter than a drum and you'd be tempted to use a hammer, but don't!

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