Getting rid of the points

[kazmar]

I have a 70 GT (My friends call it the Canadian Corvette, a long story for another time)

(Got it 2-1/2 years ago for a song!). Haven't put much into it, I am in the Navy and I have been gone for 86% of the last three years.

It was running just fine getting me to and from work for about two years. This last summer I was going for a 30 min. drive and just about 5 minutes into it and she cut out (like someone cut the entire electrical system off). I was in a panic! I let it sit for a few minutes and she started right up. After I started to accelerate it cut out again. Finally after two hours of this I got to where I was going and parked the car for an underway in a submarine (I was out to sea for 5 months straight with no sunshine!). When I got back it did the same thing.

The indications point to the ground on the condenser or the coil as was stated in the other thread. I figure since I want dependable starting I should go with replacing the point system with a PerTronix set up. The only concern I have is which unit to purchase. I know there are half a dozen options. The one I think I am going with is the 1144A IGNITOR DELCO 4 CYL W/VAC-ADV. I don't know for sure if this is compatible but several places have recommended something from this line of items. Please help me!

[kazmar]

I finally found and read some of the other threads. I am going with the Hot-Spark BOS4V1. I will order it on Monday if no one decides it is a bad idea.

[american opel]

doesent really sound like your points/condencer either they work or they don't.most likely you have a prob.with your coil because if they loose some of the oil inside they can get hot and short themself out .poss.also have a crack in it that when shaken durring driveing it arcs on something and your car dies!e.i is the way to go but i have had some prob.with the petronix because the gap on the magnetic is not the same ''out of round"make sure you take the time to check!!!i had to send two back before i got one that was right!!this is my first opel so i dont know ''amc v8''not 4cyl but mast of the cars i worked on with also had a ballast resister sep. or the wire goining to the dis.is aresistor wire you should also check these.hope this helped martin

[MICAH1]

There should be a number of GT owners in your neck of the woods who could give you up close and personal help. But have you checked the connection of the wires to and on the coil, or the battery cables (build up/tight connection)? Might the ignition switch, or wiring from the fuseblock to steering column be faulty, or loose??

[oldopelguy]

Those Hot Spark modules have a really, really bad reputation among the VW guys. Most of them average 2 or 3 of them before they get one that works right.

I would really recommend an actual Pertronix or Compufire points replacement module. Just get the one for the regular, non-009, VW and you should be fine.
Pertronics # should be 1847V
Compufire # should be 21101

I prefer the Compufire myself, $70 straight from Compufire.com, but both work excellent.

Your local Advance Auto will also carry the Crane XR700 trigger and module, which replaces the points and adds a MSD-type box. Most of us considered that the ultimate in high performance ignitions for decades, module and pick-up will set you back $100-150, can't actually remember what all you need to buy. Again, tell them it's a non-009 '74 VW.

Last step up is a pretty recent one from Compufire that eliminates the cap and rotor as well, and fires multiple coils to give you most of the advantages of a distributorless ignition. It runs right @$300, though sometimes you find it on sale.

[tekenaar]

From two years ago, titled "12 step solution for ET challenged GT ignitions" . . .

Originally Posted by tekenaar Simplest installation of electronically triggered ignition in a GT is to purchase and use Pertronix/Hot-Spark trigger and stock coil. Here's how: 1. Remove cap, rotor, points and condenser with green wire from distributor and disconnect green "condenser/points" wire from coil. Leave everything else connected as-is. 2. Install Pertronix/Hot-Spark trigger amp module where points were, do not tighten mounting screws yet. 3. Run red and black module wires out "points wire" hole in side of distributor and install grommet in "points wire" hole, leaving a bit of slack on both wires inside of distributor. 4. Push black plastic magnet unit onto distributor shaft and seat over points cam. 5. Adjust trigger amp module to magnet unit clearance using clear plastic gauge that is provided and tighten trigger module screws. 6. Replace rotor and cap . . . you're now done with the distributor. 7. Connect black Pertronix/Hot-Spark wire to coil contact from which you removed the green points wire. 8. Cut an 18" length of 16/18 gauge red wire, strip both ends ~1/4" and crimp on a 1/4" female spade connector on one end. 9. Locate clear (resistance) wire at front of fuse #3 (from passenger side) of the fuse box and attach red wire terminal on an extra lug there. This is your switched 12V (turns on with ignition key) source for powering Pertronix/Hot-Spark. 10. Run the other end of the red wire through the firewall at the windshield washer foot pump hose grommet. 11. Crimp 1/4" male spade connector to red wire now underhood and connect to matching Pertronix/Hot-Spark red wire female spade terminal. 12. To paraphrase our own SouthWest Airlines: "You're now free to move about the country!"

. . . been using Pertronix since '78 when they were Perlux!

[Killer Texas GT]

You may want to check your fuel filter also. It can become clogged with debris and kill the engine then after a few minutes the debris settles clears the passage way and off you go till it dies again.

[trailblazer2727]

I had a problem in a 69, 1.9 like you describe. After checking everything else I found that if I didn't tighten the gas cap tight it ran OK. Turns out the tank wasn't venting and with the cap tight I was vapor locking, until air could work past the cap seal.

[kazmar]

After reviewing all of the input:

I verified that my fuel filter isn't clogged (I have a clear filter body right by the carb in the fuel line).
The gas cap is after market and isn't really tight and I made sure the venting lines we not clogged.
Based on the feedback I won't be going with the Hot-Spark (made too cheap?)
I am going to replace the coil, I'm not even sure if I have the right one as there was one under the driver seat when I bought it and I'm not sure which one goes with the car. I am looking at getting a higher performance coil (Pretty sure the only requirements are that I make sure >3.0 ohm with external resistor). I will also look into the Compufire electronic ignition(Is it simple to instal like the Pertronix/Hot-Spark units? Kind of plug and play inside the distributor?)
I really appreciate everyone's assistance, I don't have many local resources that are familiar with my GT, they think it is really cool though.

[opelwasp]

No Compufire is not "Plug and Play" it will require some automotive electrical know how. The pertronix truly is "Plug and Play". Just dont have it plugged in when charging a battery or leave the ignition switch turned in the "ON" position too long, thats what "ACC" is for.

[oldopelguy]

The Compufire points replacement unit wires up and functions exactly the same as the Pertronics unit, except that it uses a flying magnet trigger ring that you drop on under the rotor the goes over the top of the pick up instead of beside it.

The Compufire DIS unit replaces the points, condenser, cap, rotor, coil, and wires and requires a bit of electrical experience to make work. It seems expensive, but when you add up all those parts that are getting replaced, it's really not all that bad by comparison.

[kazmar]

I understand that some items are not simple plug and play and slightly beyond that I am good with. What concerns me are two things when using after market parts or upgrade parts, and I have been burned by both of these in the past:

1. The item has no instructions and requires some very minor alteration of the current configuration to make it work though no one tells you that and it appears you have the wrong part because you don't have said directions.

2. When you get the item and if it has directions, they involve fabrication or major work that is beyond the scope of an at home mechanic and nothing indicates this level of need (i.e. a machine shop and specific guidance not provided in the directions for the machine shop)

As long as the directions are there and don't omit major steps I am good.

Based on the detailed instructions provided by tenekaar lead me to purchase the Pertronix as it is easily installed and directions are right here.

Thank you all again for the input as I have installed an Accel Hi Perf. coil and a new positive battery cable. She started with a little priming and ran smoothly. I was able to go to the gas station and back without incident.
I still intend on installing the electronic ignition but I am thrilled to be back on the road again!

[opelwasp]

For a regular "street car" you would be very happy with a Pertronix.

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by opelwasp ...or leave the ignition switch turned in the "ON" position too long, thats what "ACC" is for.

And what position is that on an Opel.

There is an extra terminal on the back of the switch on a GT at least. I haven't tested it, but can it be wired as an accessory switch?

Harold

[namba209]

Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr And what position is that on an Opel. There is an extra terminal on the back of the switch on a GT at least. I haven't tested it, but can it be wired as an accessory switch? Harold

According to my Willit? ignition switch and my DESTEC schematic, there is no ACC position on the GT switch. There are 4 positions on the switch, Lock, Off, On, and Start. The extra terminal on the switch is for the Euro setup to power the parking lites through the turn signals, but only in the "Lock" position. HTH.

[opelwasp]

Hum, thought I remembered seeing that on mine. I guess not, my mistake.

[american opel]

glad that worked for you.

[kazmar]

I am soooo frustrated right now. I had purchased a coil and put a new battery in. I had taken her out around the block with no problem. As soon as I decide it is safe to drive the 6 miles to work BLAM! My problem is back and just as bad as originally.

I drove about 1.5 miles and just got to some traffic and she died on me. If I pump the gas pedal like a possessed man I can get it to start back up. No guarantees that she will go anywhere before she dies again but she will start. I am starting to think the electrical problem was masking a carburator problem. I want to scream! Someone suggested I may have a stuck float?

I guess I will move on and post under the other forum thread, though I will keep tabs on this thread as everyone has been amazingly helpful and I do truely appreciate all of your assistance.

[PROPEL]

Sounds like it could be the ignition wire at the fusebox. Check/clean the wires at the terminal posts. Might also be the fusible link at the voltage regulator.

[kazmar]

I will check the fuse box and voltage regulator tomorrow. I'll have to knock the 4-6" of snow off of her to get inside but I have the day off to work on it.