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Old 01-25-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Unanswered: Engine Dies: Electrical? Mechanical?

I been drivign around and the car just shut off but aint really shut off. My rpms and mph just go dead. I though the car died so i try to turn the key and that starter grinds and the car jumps back to life and everything is fine. Then it does it 2 more times. Im confused on what it could be? Any tips?
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Old 01-25-2008   #2 (permalink)
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Are you saying both the tachometer and speedometer go to zero when this happens?
My first guess would be a failing ignition switch but the speedo is cable driven.
How about giving us some more clues into your problem.
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Old 01-25-2008   #3 (permalink)
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Ignition Switch?

Sounds like you may have poor isolation within your ignition switch.
(This is commonly caused by excessive carbon, or wear, within the switch)

You can check for this with an ohmmeter, using procedures described in the FREE Acrobat-format download, within the date field of April 2006, at:
Opel GT Ignition Tips

Steering column disassembly is described here:
Electrical System

If so, that means the switch needs to be either cleaned or rebuilt.

Last edited by Anonymous D; 01-25-2008 at 09:04 PM.
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Old 01-25-2008   #4 (permalink)
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the car wont accelerate at all its like its died but when im coasting i turn the key to start it up and then the starter grinds. i do this cuz im 16 and im scared someone is gonna rearend my baby lol, instinct kicks in. with my bad luck always happens when im in the middle of traffic and just started to go off a red light.
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Old 01-25-2008   #5 (permalink)
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Oh it looks like we nailed your problem down.
Now lets try to verify a bad switch using the "KISS" principle.
Do you know anything about a voltmeter?
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Old 01-25-2008   #6 (permalink)
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yes i have a voltmeter
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Old 01-25-2008   #7 (permalink)
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which if it matters i do have the pertronix system

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Old 01-25-2008   #8 (permalink)
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crud
Let me try again Do you have a multimeter or a test light?
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Old 01-25-2008   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by gt crazy View Post
which if it matters i do have the petronix system
Nope it wont
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Old 01-26-2008   #10 (permalink)
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i have a multimeter
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Old 01-26-2008   #11 (permalink)
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I was going to ask you to do a voltage drop test across the red and black wires..that was until I looked at my GT and saw how dangerously close they are to the steering column.
The more safer route would be to use Anonymous D's post.
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Last edited by wrench459; 01-26-2008 at 10:40 PM. Reason: Grammar
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Old 01-26-2008   #12 (permalink)
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i think i found the problem. today i was changing the oil and noticed on my coil that one of the bolts were stripped that hold one of the metal peices that hold wiring on was VERY loosed. so i put a smaller nut on and now its tighter. i dont know if that fixed it cuz it just so happens my master cylinder went out when i was bleeding on the brakes today. now i gotta get a new master cylinder and put it on then drive the car and see if it "turns off" again. so ill let you know in a couple of days if that was it. in the mean time the opel is gonna be parked. till i get a new master cylinder.
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Old 01-27-2008   #13 (permalink)
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Moderator Note: No less than THREE topics in the thread this originated from. Posts split off to new threads regarding brake master cylinder and classic insurance
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Old 01-30-2008   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by gt crazy View Post
i think i found the problem. today i was changing the oil and noticed on my coil that one of the bolts were stripped that hold one of the metal peices that hold wiring on was VERY loosed. so i put a smaller nut on and now its tighter...
Lewis,
I have an extra coil in good condition if you want to give it a try.
--Bruce
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Old 01-30-2008   #15 (permalink)
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Bruce you live in missouri right? if you do maybe we should meet up sometime. But I have a extra coil i dont know if its good. Tony P said it looked fine when he came over last saturday. I gotta wait for the brakes to come in then drive the car around to see if that loose bolt was the problem.

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Old 01-30-2008   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by gt crazy View Post
Bruce you live in missouri right? if you do maybe we should meet up sometime. But I have a extra coil i dont know if its good. Tony P said it looked fine when he came over last saturday. I gotta wait for the brakes to come in then drive the car around to see if that loose bolt was the problem.
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Lewis,
I live right around the corner from you in South County - just a few miles south of the mall. I would definitely like to meet up sometime - I just need to wrap up a bathroom remodel first.
My car had a few starting issues and several gauges not working properly. I took apart most of the wires and connectors that were suspect and thoroughly cleaned all of the oxidized connections with a Dremel equipped with a stainless steel brush (did the same during the install of the Crane Cams XR700 and PS20 coil). I usually slop on a little dielectric grease for good measure when reconnecting.
--Bruce
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Old 01-30-2008   #17 (permalink)
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thanks for the tips. well when you get done with your bathroom and have a freeday just give me a call 636-544-4281
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Old 02-28-2008   #18 (permalink)
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Ok im pretty sure the problem is my ignition switch. i jiggle my key and sometimes my car runs like a champ and sometimes i just sputter around. i just need to know of a place that will rebuild it or sell me a new or rebuilt one?
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Old 02-28-2008   #19 (permalink)
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I believe OGTS will rebuild the switch for you.
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Old 02-28-2008   #20 (permalink)
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intermittent ignition

Many moons ago I had a '51 Ford that would go and stop at its pleasure, of course, while I was in traffic. I found a loose wire on the coil. Perhaps that is what you found before the MC problem arose. OGTS does rework ignition switches, but my rework didn't last long. I'm going to try a push button starter switch rather than rely of the ignition switch. Yes, I do have an Otto start relay and highly recommend them.

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