can't find right wire for "hot spark" but got it to run

[keithrulz]

When i connect it to the wire pointed at in the pic there is no power. but from what I interpret from the 12 step instructions it's the correct one to connect to.

I thought maybe my crimp connections were bad. I tested them, don't know if it was smart but i un-fished the hot wire back through the firewall and connected it straight to the + battery terminal. I had to retard my timing a bit to get it to take off ( I think due to how poorly it was adjusted due to points and condenser system) but it started up after that and ran.

well i don't know why but at idle it would just shut off after a couple seconds. but i guess its not so much of an issue because i advanced the dizzy a degree or 2 and it hasn't shut off again. but still seems kinda shady to me..

[namba209]

O.K., fuses you have numbered 1, 2, & 3, are for the dash lights and parking lights. So continuing with your numbering system, fuse #6 is the one you should tap off of to get power to your ignition system after the engine is running. During the start cycle power for the ignition system comes from the starter solenoid. HTH.

[keithrulz]

ahh *retard attack* so i must have misunderstood the instructions ill go out and see if that one works then.. oh and is it just me or does the plastic cap inside the distrributor not fit now? i couldn't get it reinstalled.

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by keithrulz ... oh and is it just me or does the plastic cap inside the distributor not fit now? i couldn't get it reinstalled.

You'll have to leave it out or modify it.

Harold

[namba209]

Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr You'll have to leave it out or modify it. Harold

Harold, I don't know anything about the bits and pieces for pointless ignition for the Opels, but I sure hope he isn't referring to the rotor. If he is, the engine will never start without it. If so, it is keyed to the distributor shaft and has to be rotated so it will slip down in the keyway.

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by namba209 Harold,(snipped) but I sure hope he isn't referring to the rotor.

Ron, he's referring to the stock plastic (moisture/dust?) shield located between the rotor and the points.

Harold

[namba209]

Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr Ron, he's referring to the stock plastic (moisture/dust?) shield located between the rotor and the points. Harold

I'll be darned, I don't remember seeing one of those. But it's been over 7 year since I've looked inside an Opel Dissy.

[keithrulz]

haha yep I was talking about the dust cover. and i was worried without it there would be some arcing problems or something strange but im glad not.

I used the right connection this time and it had power.

now i just have to find out why it will only idle and nothing more! i havent changed anythign since it ran last (straight form the battery terninal) I must have fried something somehow

it idles great but if i even touch the throttle it will not raise rpms. it won't die but the more throttle i give it the longer/harder the stall is and still doesn't raise rpms!

kinda hard to explain I might take a video of it! weird. it's like a rev limiter that wont let it get above idle.

[hrcollinsjr]

I haven't a clue, check the timing. If you don't have a light at least check static timing. Line the timing mark (ball bearing located in the flywheel on the passenger side) up with the pointer. The rotor button should either be pointed at a little line on the edge of the distributor just to the right of the locating notch for the cap IIRC or 180 deg out. If it's 180 out then rotate it around again until the mark lines up the second time and THEN the rotor should be pointing at the mark or very close to it.

Second though, might should have been the first thought. You are getting a full 12v to the Pertronix red wire and the black wire hooked up to the negative side of the coil?

You may have fried something or just gotten a bad one.

Harold

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by keithrulz haha yep I was talking about the dust cover. and i was worried without it there would be some arcing problems or something strange but im glad not. I used the right connection this time and it had power. now i just have to find out why it will only idle and nothing more! i havent changed anythign since it ran last (straight form the battery terninal) I must have fried something somehow it idles great but if i even touch the throttle it will not raise rpms. it won't die but the more throttle i give it the longer/harder the stall is and still doesn't raise rpms! kinda hard to explain I might take a video of it! weird. it's like a rev limiter that wont let it get above idle.

. . . try this first . . . engine not running, remove disti cap an twist rotor in CW direction, then let it go!

Questions: . . . could you move it clockwise? . . . how freely? Did it snap back when you let go of it? . . . how freely? . . . this is a quick check of your disti's mechanical/centrifugal advance . . . it should move VERY freely in both directions!!

[keithrulz]

ok well i went out there today and reconnected the hot wire straight to the battery it ran fine again and idled but dies randomly still.. i have a video. when i go to pull away it makes no difference.. its as if all power juts shuts off when the rpms bog down to take off it just dies without trying to recover

i suppose there just wasn't the voltage at the fuse box conection that there should be. and it wouldn't surprise me if i have a short the whole cars kinda shady at times.

YouTube - problem

[markandson]

Are you certain this problem is electrical, seems like it might be fuel related to me.

[keithrulz]

I observed it further and it only cuts out if it drops to about 800 rpms like in the video. it's obviously an rpm dependent problem. Haven't had it die above that rpm. no matter what if the rpms dip down there (first gear takeoff what have you where the rpm dips a bit) the ignition -or something electronic- just shuts off. and no the car ran fine hours before I took the points system out. so i don't see how it could be fuel related.

no matter how far i advance and retard the distributor it stil does it so i don't think its timing.

since I temporarily have the hot wire connected to the + terminal on the battery the electrical problem must lie somewhere in the - side from the coil to wherever it goes under the dash. coil is only a week old (internal resistance 3 ohm i believe) so i didn't add the resistor. can anyone think of something in the dash or in the mess at the fuse box that could cut the ignition at a set rpm? haha

is there a problem with how i have the - side of the coil hooked hooked up? (pic) wire in my hand is crimped to the black - hotspark wire and you know the rest. please tell me i did it wrong! lol

[hrcollinsjr]

How important is the ground strap inside the distributor on the breaker plate? Is yours still connected?

Harold

[markandson]

Did you use the plastic gauge to set the gap on the Pertronix unit? Maybe you are not getting enough output from it at low rpm if the gap is too large, just shooting in the dark here but you never know......

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr How important is the ground strap inside the distributor on the breaker plate? Is yours still connected? Harold

. . . must be there for points, not really an issue with Pertronix.

[OriginalOpelGTOwner]

I recommend you put the points and condenser back and verify you have a normal running engine. Your engine sounds very rough as if the ignition coil is providing a very weak spark. Your oil pressure OK? Your valve train is quite noisey.

[OriginalOpelGTOwner]

Firing order OK?

[Gary]

Originally Posted by OriginalOpelGTOwner Firing order OK?

Should be 1-3-4-2 (Clockwise). Can't really tell from the pic if it is correct or not.

[oldopelguy]

If your alternator isn't working right the voltage might be dropping off at low idle too, causing the module to lose power. Where is power to the (+) side of the coil coming from?

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by keithrulz I observed it further and it only cuts out if it drops to about 800 rpms like in the video. it's obviously an rpm dependent problem. Haven't had it die above that rpm. no matter what if the rpms dip down there (first gear takeoff what have you where the rpm dips a bit) the ignition -or something electronic- just shuts off. and no the car ran fine hours before I took the points system out. so i don't see how it could be fuel related. no matter how far i advance and retard the distributor it stil does it so i don't think its timing. since I temporarily have the hot wire connected to the + terminal on the battery the electrical problem must lie somewhere in the - side from the coil to wherever it goes under the dash. coil is only a week old (internal resistance 3 ohm i believe) so i didn't add the resistor. can anyone think of something in the dash or in the mess at the fuse box that could cut the ignition at a set rpm? haha is there a problem with how i have the - side of the coil hooked hooked up? (pic) wire in my hand is crimped to the black - hotspark wire and you know the rest. please tell me i did it wrong! lol

We just covered all the basics of Pertronix triggering and basic coil operation for which you're seeking answers there and easily found by using this site's "Search" feature!

You can get a good understanding of Opel coil operation and voltage connections in this post, especially the last paragraph!, and find all the basics of Opel coils in this thread . . . just click and read!

[keithrulz]

I put the points and condenser back on and the car runs fine.

I pulled the e brake and put it in first gear to put a load on the engine and it went down to around 600 rpms and didn't shut off. unlike the hot spark

I'm lost in what this means.

oh and with the hot spark i did use the .030 gap

[markandson]

Originally Posted by keithrulz I'm lost in what this means.

It means you need to use a different unit in the dizzy, whether it be another hot spark, which I am not familiar with, or a pertronix, must be something wrong with the one you have.

[jvandyke]

I believe Hot Spark is just a knock-off of the Pertronix, so same thing.
Maybe you could get some parts from gt_crazy as I believe only ended up needing the magnet ring, so he might have some spare parts, although the Hot Spark is only $40 or so to start with I think.

[keithrulz]

well hot spark sent me a new ignition module and that's what turned out to be faulty! the new one works. and the car runs good.