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  1. #61
    Member My location Dennis Texas's Avatar
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    Just wanted to add a follow up... after getting the correct electronic module in place ( be sure the module matches the coil you are using or ask Hot Spark for recommendations they are very responsive to emails), the car has run excellent for 2000 miles now I did get wrong module in the first installation but after correcting and driving it I believe this is one of the best things you can do to improve reliability of the opel ignition for just under 40 bucks (not much more than an original replacement set of points and condenser and it bolts right on. )
    Last edited by tekenaar; 11-27-2008 at 09:54 AM. Reason: has ran excellant



    If everything seems to be going well you have obviously overlooked something.:banghead:

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  3. #62
    Opeler JAson Barkmeier's Avatar
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    Opled' to work today. Got the timing set right still running pretty good with the replacement hot spark mod. I am still running with the clear resistor wire in place and IR coil. I will take time to test a direct wire feed for a few weeks and see if it changes performance at all.

    Barky

  4. #63
    Opel Intern Swiftus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tekenaar View Post
    Goedzo, Erick, dat is het precies . . . well done, Erick, that's it exactly . . . Patrick, maybe this will help a bit more . . . misschien zal dit nog wel een beetje meer helpen . . .



    First column is stock coil, or any non-resistor coil - i.e. Bosch red coil, correctly connected and triggered by points or correctly wired e-trigger with all relevant voltages listed . . .

    Second column is Bosch blue coil, or any internal resistance coil, correctly connected and triggered by points or correctly wired e-trigger with all relevant voltages listed . . . note that the coil does not get a voltage boost during 'start'!

    Third column is commonly, but incorrectly, wired Bosch blue coil and incorrectly wired e-trigger . . . e-trigger is powered by only +9V (75% design voltage) during 'key on/run' condition and ignition is further hampered by coil's +6V (50%) actual operating voltage, regardless of trigger method used!

    This is what I meant by, " . . . none of these are good!"

    . . . alles nu verstaan? . . . everything now understood?
    Ok, I just want to check BEFORE I turn the key. I have a Flamethrower 3 ohm internal resistance coil and an Ignitor I. Is this okay so far?

    I connect the BLACK wire from the Ignitor to the negative (-) terminal on the coil.

    I connect the RED wire from the Ignitor to the positive (+) terminal on the coil.

    I connect the GREEN wire from the tachometer to the negative (-) terminal on the coil.

    I connect the BLACK wire from the starter to the positive (+) terminal on the coil.

    Finally, because I have an internally resisted coil, I replace the clear resistor wire with a normal wire and connect that to the positive (+) terminal on the coil.

    Any objections?

    TIA,

    Jay

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  6. #64
    Cunning Linguist Site Supporter My location tekenaar's Avatar
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    Thumbs upThat's it . . . exactly!

    Quote Originally Posted by Redskinsjbs View Post
    Ok, I just want to check BEFORE I turn the key. I have a Flamethrower 3 ohm internal resistance coil and an Ignitor I. Is this okay so far?

    I connect the BLACK wire from the Ignitor to the negative (-) terminal on the coil.

    I connect the RED wire from the Ignitor to the positive (+) terminal on the coil.

    I connect the GREEN wire from the tachometer to the negative (-) terminal on the coil.

    I connect the BLACK wire from the starter to the positive (+) terminal on the coil.

    Finally, because I have an internally resisted coil, I replace the clear resistor wire with a normal wire and connect that to the positive (+) terminal on the coil.

    Any objections?

    TIA,

    Jay
    Yes . . . BEFORE I turn the key.

    Yes . . . BLACK wire from the Ignitor.

    Yes . . . RED wire from the Ignitor.

    Yes . . . GREEN wire.

    Yes . . . BLACK wire from the starter.

    Yes . . . replace the clear resistor wire with a normal wire.


    1960: '61 Rekord PII 1.7 3S 3.9 '69 Kadett LS 'sprint' 1.9 3A 3.18
    1970: '70 GT 1.9 4S 3.44 '72 GT 2.2SSD 5S 3.44 '72 GT 2.4FI 5S 3.44P
    1970: '73 GT 1.9FI 4S 3.44 '75 1900 1.9FI 4S 3.44
    1980: '85 Bitter SC 3.9FI 5S 3.44P
    2000: '09 Solstice GXP Coupe 2.0 SIDI VVT "Stage 2" Turbo 5S 3.73P


    "De inimico non tantum loquaris male, sed cogites."

  7. #65
    Opel Intern Swiftus's Avatar
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    Shweeeeeeeeet! Lets go crank this puppy!

  8. #66
    intx73gt
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    Hot Spark

    Last November when I flew to Billings to pick up my newly purchased, on e-bay 73 GT Was not aware of the diffrent brands of electronic ign.modules so spent $40 and got the Hot Spark System along with one of their coils they recomended,was an easy purchase since it was listed on e-bay in the opel GT category.Now 8000 miles later the unit is still performing perfectlly without any problem whatsover.
    but now Ive got myself convinced that I cannot live without a compufire system,So will be doing the upgrade the first week of November.
    Will be posting photos soon of your Texas Opelers Fall meet that is comeing up October 23rd,24th and 25th.We will all be getting together in the Lake Livingston area,we are only about a 2.5 hour drive from the Louisiana border so if any of our neighdors would like to join use give me a shout.
    tom kaye
    tcavk@yahoo.com

  9. #67
    Opeler lowkey's Avatar
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    About the Hot Spark

    Two things:

    1. I met the guy who sells them, he lives here in Austin, and his Fulltime job is driving a Cab. Nice enough fellow, but definitely not a "Car Guy."

    2. Don't ever Jump Start, with a Pertronix, or Hot Spark. Instant fry, trust me.

    If you have a dead battery, either charge it, or hook up the jumper cables, let the donor car run for a while until the dead car is charged up, then disconnect the cables, and start the dead car. If you try to do a regular Jump Start, you'll probably fry the Pertronix/Hot Spark unit.

    I don't know exactly why, but from personal experience, it's a good way to fry it.

    Everything else I read here is spot on.
    Last edited by tekenaar; 10-13-2009 at 01:27 PM. Reason: guiy; definetly
    I'm just another Opel Rehab Failure.

  10. #68
    Member opeljohn's Avatar
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    bump this up

  11. #69
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    coil/pertronix wiring check

    Here's what I have and I wanted to check it:

    72 GT, Pertronix ignition, Blue Bosch coil with internal resistor

    On #1 (-) side of coil: Green wire to ground at engine block, Red (that's all I had at the time) wire to tach., Black wire to distributor.

    On the #15 (+) side of coil: Red wire to distributor, black wire to starter solenoid, Red wire to fuse block (it replaced the clear resistance wire).

    What is drawn as a red jumper wire on your diagram on the #15 side does not exist, it's just representing that this is what the three pronged terminal or the coil does?

    It does not matter which connectors go on which part of the three pronged terminal, correct?

  12. #70
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BDD1 View Post
    Here's what I have and I wanted to check it:

    72 GT, Pertronix ignition, Blue Bosch coil with internal resistor

    On #1 (-) side of coil: Green wire to ground at engine block, Red (that's all I had at the time) wire to tach., Black wire to distributor.

    On the #15 (+) side of coil: Red wire to distributor, black wire to starter solenoid, Red wire to fuse block (it replaced the clear resistance wire).

    What is drawn as a red jumper wire on your diagram on the #15 side does not exist, it's just representing that this is what the three pronged terminal or the coil does?

    It does not matter which connectors go on which part of the three pronged terminal, correct?
    What three pronged terminal?

    The - side of coil does NOT ground to the block. It connects to the black wire coming from the pertronix.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  13. #71
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    The spade terminals on each side of the coil each have three "tabs". Don't Tekenaar's diagrams each show a green wire going from the coil to ground on the #1 (-) side?
    Also, in the central diagrams what does the red "jumper wire" really represent? I doubt it is an actual wire.

  14. #72
    Cunning Linguist Site Supporter My location tekenaar's Avatar
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    IR (internal resistance) coil!

    Quote Originally Posted by BDD1 View Post
    The spade terminals on each side of the coil each have three "tabs". Don't Tekenaar's diagrams each show a green wire going from the coil to ground on the #1 (-) side?
    Also, in the central diagrams what does the red "jumper wire" really represent? I doubt it is an actual wire.
    IR coils have resistance between coil +side and coil primary inside, reducing the actual voltage 'seen' by the coil. When you hook up the +12V resistance wire to the +side of the coil, you're adding another resistance, further reducing the voltage 'seen' by the coil. The "bypass wire" is there to eliminate that second resistance!

    Oh, and the "ground side" of the coil is more properly called the "trigger side" . . . when using the original distributor points: points closed (grounded), coil hi-voltage secondary is charged to full voltage; points open and coil secondary charge field collapses and fires plug at the rotor position. E-triggers just do that electronically without changes over time like points. Clear now? HTH
    Last edited by tekenaar; 07-03-2016 at 05:30 PM.


    1960: '61 Rekord PII 1.7 3S 3.9 '69 Kadett LS 'sprint' 1.9 3A 3.18
    1970: '70 GT 1.9 4S 3.44 '72 GT 2.2SSD 5S 3.44 '72 GT 2.4FI 5S 3.44P
    1970: '73 GT 1.9FI 4S 3.44 '75 1900 1.9FI 4S 3.44
    1980: '85 Bitter SC 3.9FI 5S 3.44P
    2000: '09 Solstice GXP Coupe 2.0 SIDI VVT "Stage 2" Turbo 5S 3.73P


    "De inimico non tantum loquaris male, sed cogites."

  15. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by tekenaar View Post
    IR coils have resistance between coil +side and coil primary inside, reducing the actual voltage 'seen' by the coil. When you hook up the +12V resistance wire to the +side of the coil, you're adding another resistance, further reducing the voltage 'seen' by the coil. The "bypass wire" is there to eliminate that second resistance!

    Oh, and the "ground side" of the coil is more properly called the "trigger side" . . . when using the original distributor points: points closed (grounded), coil hi-voltage secondary is charged to full voltage; points open and coil secondary charge field collapses and fires plug at the rotor position. E-triggers just do that electronically without changes over time like points. Clear now? HTH
    But Otto....I can clearly see a green wire in your diagrams that go from the (-) side of the coil to a ground symbol....even though it says "pts" near that wire....which I didn't think was defined. I removed that wire and the car started right up like it used to.

    I have a pertronix ignition and only have a red and a black wire from the distributor to the coil. I replaced the clear resistance wire with a heavy gauge red wire when I installed the pertronix system.

    How does red bypass wire get connected? My three terminals on the (+) side of the coil are completely taken up by the red pertronix wire, red replacement for the former resistance wire, and the black wire to the starter solenoid.

    Is there a clear photo of the coil showing every wire to each side including tach. and ignition switch wire? There is a photo in another pertronix or coil related thread but it is so blurry it could be a pic of a UFO.....or maybe even Bigfoot.

  16. #74
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Dude, forget the diagram and I will explain all you need to know with a Pertronix on YOUR car.

    Black wire from the Pertronix goes to the - side of the coil.
    Green tach wire (in your case red because it's all you had) goes to the - side of the coil.

    Red wire from the pertronix goes to the + side of the coil and another wire (that used to be the clearish wire) goes to the fusebox on the ignition controlled side.

    Forget three spade doohickies on the coil. They mean nothing other than it used to have three wires attached to it. That's in the past. You know, the past is supposed to be in the past. Not dragged up like you forgot an anniversary or something. Let the three spade thingie go already.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  17. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    Dude, forget the diagram and I will explain all you need to know with a Pertronix on YOUR car.

    Black wire from the Pertronix goes to the - side of the coil.
    Green tach wire (in your case red because it's all you had) goes to the - side of the coil.

    Red wire from the pertronix goes to the + side of the coil and another wire (that used to be the clearish wire) goes to the fusebox on the ignition controlled side.

    Forget three spade doohickies on the coil. They mean nothing other than it used to have three wires attached to it. That's in the past. You know, the past is supposed to be in the past. Not dragged up like you forgot an anniversary or something. Let the three spade thingie go already.
    Well alrighty then. That's how mine is hooked up and it starts like a champ. I see your :P and raise you a :P.

  18. #76
    Mike's Opel Shop Site Supporter My location opellane's Avatar
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    Trouble-shooting Pertronix

    How do you know if you Burnt out your Pertronix ??/

    well I've been working with them a while..
    First off you can never leave the key switch to On Position ( like to listen to Radio or if the engine stalls) This will burn out the coil and then the Pertronix so make sure you key her off.

    Ok first off a 1.5 ohm coil will use the stock clear wire (+) fusebox
    a 3 ohm coil will use a new red wire from fusebox installed

    If you think you burnt out your coil...it will get real hot Ohm read it! with nothing wires attach If OL or infinite , Zero ...no reading...it's N/G

    If it reads 1.5...If it read 3,0 ohms the coils is still good
    Now the pertronix it has a diode in the circuit so when you ohm the two pertronix wires will only ring though one direction (+ red) to (- bk) and nothing the other direction, OL infinite reading then Pertronix is still Good and should work
    when cranking engine you must have 12- 13.7 volts on the coil..not 11.5 will not start
    These are just some trouble shooting tips that I ran across that I'd thought would share...good luck Guys
    MIKE
    ---------------------------------------------------
    1972 Opel GT,Citris Yellow 2.0L, Weber 38DGES
    1969 Opel GT Lt Blue Metallic 2.0L,Weber 38DGES
    1973 MGB, Red, Weber 38DG

  19. #77
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Oil filled ignition coils likes around four amps flowing in the primary circuit.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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