NO current to coil

[StefanLee]

Again, malfunctions. Well, we need these little aggravations to keep us on our toes, right?

Anyway... My ignition is acting up, or rather, there's a lack of current to the coil.

The engine starts up fine, and then dies when I release the starter button (a custom thing the PO did). So, I went on a hunt for electrons.

Apparently the starter feeds the coil as it should when the starter is engaged since the motor runs and ignites. There is no current to the coil from the ignition though.

I hooked a wire directly from plus to 15 on the coil, and with that it ran fine even without starter.

So there is a break somewhere from the battery to terminal 15 on the coil, the question is where? I consulted the wiring diagram and came up a little short, I can't really tell from where the current comes. I figured it was directly from the ignition but apparently not.

Do I have a burnt out ignition switch? Ideas?

Stefan

[Nathan Acree]

You have the classic burned resistor wire syndrome.

During starting (as you have seen) the coil is supplied by a wire coming from the starter solenoid. This wire provides full battery voltage during starting.

Once the engine is running (and the ignition switch springs back to the "run" position) the coil is supplied by a resitor wire (covered with clear but now probably yellowed insulation) that limit the current supplied to the coil. This wire runs from the fuse box to the positive terminal on the coil (you should have two wires on the positive terminal- one from the starter and the other would be the resistance wire). Your best bet is to find the clear wire, trace it back to the fuse box and replace it with a standard wire and use a coil that is designed to run without a ballast resistor or use a ballast resistor simply a large (large wattage not large resistance) resistor that provides the same function as the resistor wire.

Do a search for some of the Pertronix conversion threads- these will likely have the details of what I have described above.

-Nathan Acree
Albuquerque New Mexico

[Gary Sullivan]

I'll take a shot here. From what you have said thus far...Sometimes you get those symtoms when the small wire at the top of the starter has been pulled off accidently or is loose and not making good contact. Many Opels have a bi-post terminal there so it is sometimes two small wires merging to connect toward the top of the starter. You need that for power to the coil. I would also check that wire the runs from the distributor cap to the coil that it is also in good shape as well. That's where I'd start as all those are in a position to frequently get bumped loose. I've crimped mine, very slightly so they stop slipping off the terminals. Hope that helps.

[namba209]

Stefan, if everything else works with the key in the "ON" position, your ignition switch is O.K. Nathan probably has it right or at least close. With the key on, check for voltage at the coil. But do it quickly, I had the resistor wire shoirt out and take out all the wiring in the fuse panel. Not fun to repair/replace the whole harness.

[StefanLee]

Just a heads up on my repairs.

I've fixed it, the easy way. What I did was find a connection in the fuse box with current when the ignition is in the "on" position and then route a new wire to the coil nr15 terminal. The coil is now on an 8 amp fuse, should be ok.

The car runs fine, it even feels like it runs a little better since I got to clean the coil-plug cable connections.

SL

[Gary]

If you are running with points, it will run right for now... but you will eventually burn up your points. That clear resistor wire drops the voltage down to 8 volts or so. If you replace the resistor wire withe a solid one, you need to add a "Ballast Resistor" in line before the coil.

The wire from the starter gives you 12 volts for better starting, when the key is released the current to the coil goes through the resistor wire.

Not a problem if you have an electronic pick-up like a Pertronics unit replacing the points.

[StefanLee]

I´m sorry I didn't mention it, but I have a separate resistor in line before the coil. I know it's easy to burn the points or coil otherwise.

But thanks for the tip anyway, it's not really apparent that the coil needs 9 volts and not 12.

Stefan