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Old 04-07-2009   #1 (permalink)
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Unanswered: Unexpected side benefit

I was replacing the main fusible link yesterday. I decided it would be easier and, in my opinion, better to replace it with a fuse.
Being important to put the fusible link as close to the power source (in this case, near the starter) as possible, I decided to mount the fuse holder right on the bracket of the washer bottle. It's a cheapo ATO fuse holder but will work fine.

Anyhow, to keep the story short, it dawned on me that all of a sudden I created an anti theft device. Rather than have a battery isolater, all I need to do is pull the fuse and the electrical system is DEAD. A simple and efficient way to help prevent someone from swiping my GT.

The best part is nobody would ever think to look next to the washer bottle for the cutoff.
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Old 04-07-2009   #2 (permalink)
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Very cool idea, reminds me of a cool, but, simple way to "kill" the car, but, at the same time hide the switch. The article I saw used the cigarette lighter. (I don't smoke) You put the kill switch, which just grounds the coil, in the lighter, and before you leave the car, and no one can see you do it, hit the lighter and the car won't start.
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Old 04-07-2009   #3 (permalink)
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Thats a cool idea too. On my first Opel GT, I used the cigarette lighter spot for the ignition switch.

One of the things with the fuse is that even if its pulled while the car is running, it won't die as long as there is positive flow from the alternator. So, if I'm driving and for some bizarre reason the fuse popped out, the car won't die. I will, of course, always carry a few spare fuses.

Personally, I think all Opel GTs should have a built in kill mechanism somewhere. Back in the 80s I knew someone who had their GT stolen. The thief has actually swapped steering columns to bypass the locked steering. The guy got his GT back so it turned out well but it could have been much worse.
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Old 04-07-2009   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
I was replacing the main fusible link yesterday. I decided it would be easier and, in my opinion, better to replace it with a fuse.
Just keep in mind why a fusible link was originally used instead of a fuse. A fuse opens the circuit almost instantaneously anytime its rated capacity is reached. A fusible link is in effect a "slow blow fuse" that can accomodate a brief increase in amperage slightly above the normal continuous load for the circuit.

Replacing a fusible link with a conventional fuse could leave you walking even though there may be no true electrical problem present.
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Old 04-07-2009   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Jeepsbeme View Post
Just keep in mind why a fusible link was originally used instead of a fuse. A fuse opens the circuit almost instantaneously anytime its rated capacity is reached. A fusible link is in effect a "slow blow fuse" that can accomodate a brief increase in amperage slightly above the normal continuous load for the circuit.

Replacing a fusible link with a conventional fuse could leave you walking even though there may be no true electrical problem present.
Yup, you are correct which is why I am carrying extra fuses AND using a 30Amp fuse.
The fusible link in the GT essentially protects the headlights. When your fusible link blows, it is usually the headlight wires, at the rotator, that is the problem IME.

BTW, a fusible link is really just a smaller gauge wire that will fry before the rest. It's an OLD "technology" that I felt can be improved upon. Only time will tell if it works out fine.
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