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Thread: Ultimate Opel Spark Plug

  1. #41
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    RockAuto

    I ordered my last several sets of spark plugs, including non-Opel, from RockAuto. They were significantly less expensive than buying them locally at AutoZone, O'Reilly, or NAPA. You have to sort out the shipping charges from RockAuto, as they ship from different warehouse locations. Several times my parts were drop shipped from a local California warehouse and arrived quickly.

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  3. #42
    Cunning Linguist Site Supporter My location tekenaar's Avatar
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    QuestionWhich ones . . .

    Quote Originally Posted by wrench459 View Post
    Well I found out that I need better software and hardware to grab the info.
    Found a good average screen shot from the snapshots..well as good as I could get.

    Prerequisites warmed up engine
    Grabbed the snapshots after the cooling fan turned off stable idle.

    First up the AR52's thats too cold.

    Attachment 39547

    Next was the standard copper cores.

    Attachment 39548

    Then finally the single platinum's.

    Attachment 39549

    Ain't this fun?
    . . . resistor - WR7BC 's or non-resistor - W7BC 's?!!


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  4. #43
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Bosch Super WR7BC

    Quote Originally Posted by tekenaar View Post
    . . . resistor - WR7BC 's or non-resistor - W7BC 's?!!
    I didn't even bother finding a good average.
    The very best waveform that a fresh out of the box WR7BC could deliver.

    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by wrench459; 05-15-2012 at 06:26 PM.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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  6. #44
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Modified Used WR7BC

    This WR7BC has had part of the ground electrode removed and the gap opened up.

    Modified_Used_WR7BC.jpg

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

  7. #45
    Doug My location strassed's Avatar
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    I could be waaaay out of my league here, but, I would think the longer plugs would act much like a hemispherical head and generate a flame front that creates a more even force across the surface of the piston thus acting directly against the crankshaft. If the plug reach were shorter, the flame front would "wash" like a wave across the surface of the piston. The flame "wash" might not be a bad scenario either since that might help the engine breathe better, depending on the design. I'm thinking cross flow heads here.

    And I would think you would want your spark plug in the way of the air fuel mix so when the spark comes its not hidden away in a remote corner of the combustion chamber, but is in the thick of the mix that needs igniting!

    My only problem is the longer plug takes up room that could be more air/fuel mix.

    Lastly, Bob, thanks for the pics and explanations. Awesome stuff. Would you PLEASE compile all your posts off this site and write a book?
    Gabe G likes this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by strassed View Post
    Would you PLEASE compile all your posts off this site and write a book?
    I must agree with that, also, there are a few others here that could do this and we would have a series, or a Bible v2.0

  9. #47
    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter My location RallyBob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by strassed View Post
    Lastly, Bob, thanks for the pics and explanations. Awesome stuff. Would you PLEASE compile all your posts off this site and write a book?
    20 years ago I had an inkling of an idea to write a book regarding (performance) Opels. But I figured that by the time I was done with the final chapters the early chapters would be out of date. So rather than waste my time doing that and me ultimately being unhappy with it, better off to not do it at all.

    Besides, that's what this forum is for.
    Last edited by RallyBob; 05-16-2012 at 11:30 AM. Reason: spelling
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  10. #48
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by strassed View Post
    ..., I would think the longer plugs would act much like a hemispherical head and generate a flame front that creates a more even force across the surface of the piston thus acting directly against the crankshaft.
    Quote Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post

    Besides, that's what this forum is for.
    I joined this site back in 05.
    I was blown away with how advanced the racer's were!
    The only problem I was a little late into the scene.
    Though keep up the good thinking and add to the knowledge. I may not agree with the thoughts...but that's OK. I admire your guts with the posting.
    Almost like the old days back when I first joined.
    Last edited by hrcollinsjr; 01-28-2013 at 07:12 AM. Reason: Doug keep up?

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

  11. #49
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post




    My only concerns with the long plugs are that they:

    1) Won't work with domed pistons due to the potential for contact.
    2) Will get carbon buildup on the threads, hence the removal of the last 1/4" of thread.
    3) With the threads intact, there will be multiple hot spots and potential melting of the threads under high loads.
    4) Not sure if a colder heat range is required, since the longer plug is not having all that combustion heat absorbed by 100% of the threads.
    I'm still working with point number four.
    Been keeping an eye out on how the super long tips are doing in the late
    model stock production cars.



    The threads haven't been cut due to still looking for the right plug.
    A little tweaking with the mixture and it looks like I'm very close.
    The plug on the left has been installed. The one on the right is new out of the box.
    Last edited by hrcollinsjr; 01-28-2013 at 07:24 AM.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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    Would NGK BPR6HS be adequate for atmo 2.4 engine with MS2 and wasted spark and 9.5CR?Advices recomended,I'm right before cc'ing chamber,so correct plugs should be bought.

  13. #51
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    How about this one NGK

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

  14. #52
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Well, it's been 3 years since I started this thread and my engine situation has changed considerably. I no longer have a worn out 2.0 with a crazy cam. I now have a used, great compression, stock 2.4 engine, that runs great. I still use the MSD multi-spark ignition.

    I've just had the engine carb jetting and timing dyno tuned and she's running as good as my daily driver FI cars. The tuner dude told me afterwards to put a new set of plugs in it(still using the ones from the 2.0) and very pointedly said "...gapped to 45."

    So I've installed a new set of.....

    NGK BPR7HS

    .....and gapped them to 45.

    Is this an appropriate plug for my casual driving, stock, 2.4?

    What about that gap? Sound appropriate?



    Remember, MSD suggests plain copper plugs, nuttin' fancy. I don't know what the compression is as of right this second, after gettin' her all runnin' and drivin', but it was supposed to be 165psi when it was sold to me and turned out to have a blown head gasket. After a new gasket and valve adjustment by a master Opel motorhead with no oil in the engine and just a little squirted into the combustion chamber we measured 190-200psi.


    Am I in safe territory with the plug I'm using?


    The car runs dandy, I'm just curious.



  15. #53
    2000 Post Club norbertone.gt371's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    Well, it's been 3 years since I started this thread and my engine situation has changed considerably. I no longer have a worn out 2.0 with a crazy cam. I now have a used, great compression, stock 2.4 engine, that runs great. I still use the MSD multi-spark ignition.

    I've just had the engine carb jetting and timing dyno tuned and she's running as good as my daily driver FI cars. The tuner dude told me afterwards to put a new set of plugs in it(still using the ones from the 2.0) and very pointedly said "...gapped to 45."

    So I've installed a new set of.....

    NGK BPR7HS

    .....and gapped them to 45.

    Is this an appropriate plug for my casual driving, stock, 2.4?

    What about that gap? Sound appropriate?



    Remember, MSD suggests plain copper plugs, nuttin' fancy. I don't know what the compression is as of right this second, after gettin' her all runnin' and drivin', but it was supposed to be 165psi when it was sold to me and turned out to have a blown head gasket. After a new gasket and valve adjustment by a master Opel motorhead with no oil in the engine and just a little squirted into the combustion chamber we measured 190-200psi.


    Am I in safe territory with the plug I'm using?


    The car runs dandy, I'm just curious.



    Here dandy man

    For stock C24NE

    "-Für den C24NE aus dem Opel Omega:
    Bosch WR7BC 0,7mm
    Beru 14R-7BU 0,8mm
    NGK BPR6HS 0,7mm

  16. #54
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    Can I get some clarity on that gap measurement?

    .024 is half what that guy suggested.

    Aren't I supposed to use a slightly cooler plug with the MSD also?

    Norbert says that...

    NGK BPR6HS 0,7mm

    ....is what is recommended........, but stock Omegas I presume do not have multispark ignitions. How much gap in American talk is 0,7mm???????

    Does the "6" mean that it is cooler or hotter than the.....

    NGK BPR7HS's

    .....that I am currently using?

    I've only driven the car once for 5 miles with a passenger since I put the plugs in and I've run it a few times in the driveway. I do seem to detect a slight miss as it's warming up that I don't remember hearing.


    Should I close that gap a little?




  17. #55
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    gonna have to pull out your handy dandy spark plug decoder.

    difference between 6 and 7 is heat range. i think...

  18. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post
    Can I get some clarity on that gap measurement?

    .024 is half what that guy suggested.

    Aren't I supposed to use a slightly cooler plug with the MSD also?

    Norbert says that...

    NGK BPR6HS 0,7mm

    ....is what is recommended........, but stock Omegas I presume do not have multispark ignitions. How much gap in American talk is 0,7mm???????

    Does the "6" mean that it is cooler or hotter than the.....

    NGK BPR7HS's

    .....that I am currently using?

    I've only driven the car once for 5 miles with a passenger since I put the plugs in and I've run it a few times in the driveway. I do seem to detect a slight miss as it's warming up that I don't remember hearing.


    Should I close that gap a little?



    I show what is fact by the C24NE with FI stock engine


    Use this tool: So 0,7mm = 0,0275591"
    Never hear before from gap with 1,143mm
    What tool you use??A elephant ear

    https://www.google.de/search?sourcei...PkE&gws_rd=ssl

    With the NGK7 you buy a hotter one
    The C24NE need the colder one NGK6

  19. #57
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Yes, with NGK, the number is in reference to heat range.
    Lower is colder, I believe.

    If you are fouling then you need a hotter plug. If you are dieseling then a colder one.

    With the 2.4, you need to watch the Temps. Colder plugs will be better than hotter ones.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
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  20. #58
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    I use Iridium plugs in my 73 1.9L Car starts better than standard plugs.

  21. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    Yes, with NGK, the number is in reference to heat range.
    Lower is colder, I believe.
    Gordo

    On the NGK plugs, the 6HS plug is a "hotter" plug then the 7HS. Lower the number the "hotter" the plug, higher the number "colder" the plug.

    My suggestion would be to just drive it and look at your plugs after a good cruse down the highway. It does take a little bit of driving for them to color up.

    HTH
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  22. #60
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Scifi Guy View Post

    I've only driven the car once for 5 miles with a passenger since I put the plugs in and I've run it a few times in the driveway...
    Should I close that gap a little?
    If your passenger floats your boat..
    Then heck yes close the gap
    The Scifi Guy likes this.

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