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Thread: Starts - turns over - runs for 2 seconds - dies. What the hell??

  1. #21
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by newbieGT View Post
    Your right!!!! Leaving it engaged keeps it running!!! Now how do I fix that????
    Find out if it's the switch or the wire.

    If it's the switch, nothing will work when the key is in the "run" position.
    So, if your windshield wipers work in the "run" position then your switch is fine.
    If they don't then you need to find out why.

    Report back.

    Also, just for giggles, check the fuse where your clearish yellowish wire is connected to make sure it's not blown.
    Also,check the red and black plugs on the side of the fuse box to make sure they are plugged in all the way.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

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  3. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    Find out if it's the switch or the wire.

    If it's the switch, nothing will work when the key is in the "run" position.
    So, if your windshield wipers work in the "run" position then your switch is fine.
    If they don't then you need to find out why.

    Report back.

    Also, just for giggles, check the fuse where your clearish yellowish wire is connected to make sure it's not blown.
    Also,check the red and black plugs on the side of the fuse box to make sure they are plugged in all the way.
    In the run position. Heater fan works not the wiper. Wiper switch on the amp meter goes to negative.

    The clear yellowish wire gets hot when in in run position.

  4. #23
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by newbieGT View Post
    In the run position. Heater fan works not the wiper. Wiper switch on the amp meter goes to negative.

    The clear yellowish wire gets hot when in in run position.
    Verify that the yellowish/clear wire is connected to the + side of the coil ONLY.
    AND that the Pertronix (red wire) is NOT running off of the + side of the coil.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

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  6. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    Verify that the yellowish/clear wire is connected to the + side of the coil ONLY.
    AND that the Pertronix (red wire) is NOT running off of the + side of the coil.
    Red wire is running off positive. Along with a few others. See attached.
    IMG_20151018_172234.jpg

  7. #25
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by newbieGT View Post
    Red wire is running off positive. Along with a few others. See attached.
    IMG_20151018_172234.jpg
    You found your problem.

    It's a rookie mistake.
    Take the red pertronix wire and remove it from the coil.
    Reattach it to a keyed positive source.
    Personally, I run it back into the fuse box and connect it the same place that the clearish wire is connected.

    To tell you what's going on...
    The clearish wire is a RESISTOR wire that reduces the voltage to the coil while in the RUN position.
    It is how the coil gets electricity when the car is "running". So when it's doing it's job, the coil gets between 5-7 volts.
    That's not enough to run the pertronix.

    The other wire goes between the starter and the coil. When you hit the starter it provides the full 12V(+) to the coil which IS enough to run the pertronix.

    So, the pertronix is ONLY working as long as the starter is engaged. Otherwise it's not functioning.

    Moving the red wire to a 12V source will solve the problem.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  8. #26
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    ummm. alot of GTs are wired pertronx to resistor wired coil, and they run. It is advised to use full 12v, but most wired this way, still run good.
    .
    looks like he has no resistor wire and may have replaced it. And may have relocated wire to lug which receives 12v while in start position only.

    exact same symptoms when I made same mistake.

    or possibly the Coil wire to fuse box is inoperative and only receiving power off of starter wire to coilswitched 12v. as soon as key returns to run ignition is cut off.
    Last edited by Frozen Tundra GT; 10-18-2015 at 08:10 PM.
    yellaopelgt likes this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    You found your problem.

    It's a rookie mistake.
    Take the red pertronix wire and remove it from the coil.
    Reattach it to a keyed positive source.
    Personally, I run it back into the fuse box and connect it the same place that the clearish wire is connected.

    To tell you what's going on...
    The clearish wire is a RESISTOR wire that reduces the voltage to the coil while in the RUN position.
    It is how the coil gets electricity when the car is "running". So when it's doing it's job, the coil gets between 5-7 volts.
    That's not enough to run the pertronix.

    The other wire goes between the starter and the coil. When you hit the starter it provides the full 12V(+) to the coil which IS enough to run the pertronix.

    So, the pertronix is ONLY working as long as the starter is engaged. Otherwise it's not functioning.

    Moving the red wire to a 12V source will solve the problem.
    Well I'm going to try it in the morning when I can see better. The Petronix was installed by a mechanic at Firestone who did some other electrical work on the car when I first got it. The car was a barn find and had squirrels stuffing nut in it. So a few wires were chewed through. The firestone guy . His best I guess but I have had to fix many things they claimed th solved. B I have been running it that way for years.
    Anyway, I put in the bigger alternator a few weeks before this happened to to could get more power. I hope this a works out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by newbieGT View Post
    Well I'm going to try it in the morning when I can see better. The Petronix was installed by a mechanic at Firestone who did some other electrical work on the car when I first got it. The car was a barn find and had squirrels stuffing nut in it. So a few wires were chewed through. The firestone guy . His best I guess but I have had to fix many things they claimed th solved. B I have been running it that way for years.
    Anyway, I put in the bigger alternator a few weeks before this happened to to could get more power. I hope this a works out.
    considering it has been wired like this for years and all of a sudden happened, something doesn't add up. I would replace connections or splices to rule them out too.

    follow + wire on coil to fuse box.

    check fuse. if okay, check voltage at other end by coil with key turned on.

  11. #29
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    I removed the clear wire from the fuse box (run switched).
    Then ran a control wire to a main relay..pin 85
    The main relay fires up the ignition system,fuel pump and also the pcm.
    The pcm controls pin 86 for the fuel pump.
    The pcm when first powered up will turn on the fuel pump for ~ five seconds.
    Once a rotation event happens it will keep the contacts closed.
    If no VR signal ....no fuel...
    simple stuff

    RTFM

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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    Quote Originally Posted by wrench459 View Post
    I removed the clear wire from the fuse box (run switched).
    Then ran a control wire to a main relay..pin 85
    The main relay fires up the ignition system,fuel pump and also the pcm.
    The pcm controls pin 86 for the fuel pump.
    The pcm when first powered up will turn on the fuel pump for ~ five seconds.
    Once a rotation event happens it will keep the contacts closed.
    If no VR signal ....no fuel...
    simple stuff

    RTFM
    nobody cares

  13. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frozen Tundra GT View Post
    ummm. alot of GTs are wired pertronx to resistor wired coil, and they run. It is advised to use full 12v, but most wired this way, still run good.
    .
    looks like he has no resistor wire and may have replaced it. And may have relocated wire to lug which receives 12v while in start position only.

    exact same symptoms when I made same mistake.

    or possibly the Coil wire to fuse box is inoperative and only receiving power off of starter wire to coilswitched 12v. as soon as key returns to run ignition is cut off.
    I've only seen two pertronix hooked up that way and both weren't working until they were powered to a reliable 12v source.

    His working for year and then not, all of a sudden, is questionable. But if hooking it up to 12V fixes the problem, what difference would it make?
    Opel GTs are not GM products
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    Humans are not an endangered species!
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    Ive seen the reports of many hooked up to resistor wired coil and still working. including my car. Otto has suggested the rewire to many guys who's car was running fine.

    What difference would it make? So he understands what went wrong and further understanding of how it works.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frozen Tundra GT View Post
    Ive seen the reports of many hooked up to resistor wired coil and still working. including my car. Otto has suggested the rewire to many guys who's car was running fine.

    What difference would it make? So he understands what went wrong and further understanding of how it works.....
    1.2 ohm primary coil or a 3.0 ohm?

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

  16. #34
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    I don't see a clear(ish) resistor wire hooked up to the coil, just a green/white wire, red wire, and red to pertronix. If the Firestone mechanic swapped out the resistor wire for regular wire, then that means you won't need the wire from the starter to give you 12v (if you're already getting 12v from the replaced wire). Also, it looks like you've got a Bosch blue coil, which needs 12v, not 5-7.

  17. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by ubernoob51 View Post
    I don't see a clear(ish) resistor wire hooked up to the coil, just a green/white wire, red wire, and red to pertronix. If the Firestone mechanic swapped out the resistor wire for regular wire, then that means you won't need the wire from the starter to give you 12v (if you're already getting 12v from the replaced wire). Also, it looks like you've got a Bosch blue coil, which needs 12v, not 5-7.
    The resistor wire was spliced with a green/yellow one. It's had a considerable amount of "repair" to the wiring.

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    Humans are not an endangered species!
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  18. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by newbieGT View Post
    The clear yellowish wire gets hot when in in run position.
    Check for a short associated with this wire. It should not get hot. Disconnect it at the coil, turn key switch on, if it still gets hot look for a short.
    Jeff

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  19. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by newbieGT View Post
    I have been running it that way for years.

    I put in the bigger alternator a few weeks before this happened to could get more power.
    Could this be the clue? If he is using an external regulator and has a loose or miswired situation. Or maybe an internally regulated alt was miswired?


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    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    The resistor wire was spliced with a green/yellow one. It's had a considerable amount of "repair" to the wiring.

    See pic. Resistor clear wire spliced with wire running to left of starter. I am not sure what the Blue an white one should be. But I will try removing the resistor and put it on the coil where you have outlined. I will then try to wire the red petronix to a keyed spot on the fuse box.
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  21. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by newbieGT View Post
    See pic. Resistor clear wire spliced with wire running to left of starter. I am not sure what the Blue an white one should be. But I will try removing the resistor and put it on the coil where you have outlined. I will then try to wire the red petronix to a keyed spot on the fuse box.
    OK, so that splice looks fine. The original wiring was spliced there but directly with the blade connector, not an extra piece of wire. No worries there.

    The blue on white one is suspect. Whatever that goes to might be a clue. For your test, disconnect that one also.

    Once you do your suggested modifications, let us know what happens.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  22. #40
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    OK. So petronix connected to fuse box.

    Resistor connected to coil in proper spot

    Mystery blue and white wire removed from coil.


    Starts on first crank and runs fine.

    However, oil pressure gage, gas gage and temp gage not working. I try to connect blue and white to coil again. It starts but won't run.
    Note: when I press the wiper switch, those gages come on and work properly. But the wipers do not come on.

    So now the car runs.

    But I need the gages to work. So can I plug the Blu and white elsewhere? Or is there a short somewhere?

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