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Thread: Starts - turns over - runs for 2 seconds - dies. What the hell??

  1. #41
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by newbieGT View Post
    OK. So petronix connected to fuse box.

    Resistor connected to coil in proper spot

    Mystery blue and white wire removed from coil.


    Starts on first crank and runs fine.

    However, oil pressure gage, gas gage and temp gage not working. I try to connect blue and white to coil again. It starts but won't run.
    Note: when I press the wiper switch, those gages come on and work properly. But the wipers do not come on.

    So now the car runs.

    But I need the gages to work. So can I plug the Blu and white elsewhere? Or is there a short somewhere?
    First order of business would be to find out what that blue wire goes to.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
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  3. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    First order of business would be to find out what that blue wire goes to.
    I am pretty sure the blue/wht is the 16 gauge fusible link wire that was attached to th voltage regulator. Previously, the firestone guy replaced the stock alternator with one fitted with a built in regulator and must have wired it to the coil. From the colour coded diagrams it's the only blue / white running out the fire wall into engine bay.

    At the moment it is disconnected.

    My wipers don't work

    Gas gauge, amp and temp gauge are not functional * unless the wiper switch is in the on position.

  4. #43
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by newbieGT View Post
    My wipers don't work

    Gas gauge, amp and temp gauge are not functional * unless the wiper switch is in the on position.
    You should fix that.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
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    Owner of EZ2Wire.com My location GoinManta's Avatar
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    Check the ammeter.. headlights/wiper motor probably shorted and killed it.

    While cranking the coil builds up power and that power is from the cranking circuit of the switch is direct to the battery.

    So when you kill the cranking circuit.. the engine has enough juice and fire to run.

    Try running a wire from the (+) of the battery to the (+) Of the coil. Then start it up.. if it runs.. then you have a bad ignition switch or blown Ammeter.





    The wire - To Coil ( From Switched Side of Fuse Panel ) is feed from the AMMeter
    Last edited by GoinManta; 10-20-2015 at 02:07 PM.
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    The blue/white wire is needed, eventually it needs to be hooked up to your alternator. I have an internally regulated 70 amp alternator, on mine, the wire goes to the D+ post on the back of the alt. Your alternator may be self-exciting, but it's nice to have the idiot light function to let you know something's wrong.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ubernoob51 View Post
    The blue/white wire is needed, eventually it needs to be hooked up to your alternator. I have an internally regulated 70 amp alternator, on mine, the wire goes to the D+ post on the back of the alt. Your alternator may be self-exciting, but it's nice to have the idiot light function to let you know something's wrong.
    PS. It is suppose to have a fuseable link on the blue/white wire to the idiot light. 4 ga higher than the wire

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    Quote Originally Posted by poor gt View Post
    PS. It is suppose to have a fuseable link on the blue/white wire to the idiot light. 4 ga higher than the wire
    As pointed out in this thread, post #35 (http://www.opelgt.com/forums/1a-star...rcuit-2.html): 4 GA higher is a SMALLER wire. It always messes ME up!

    Doug

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    Quote Originally Posted by slracer View Post
    As pointed out in this thread, post #35 (http://www.opelgt.com/forums/1a-star...rcuit-2.html): 4 GA higher is a SMALLER wire. It always messes ME up!

    Doug
    Installed a advised above and engine starts and runs fine. Amp gauge NOW functional.

    Temp, gas, and oil gauge still not operational. They only work when the wiper switch is pressed in on position.

    Wipers still don't work.

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    Quote Originally Posted by newbieGT View Post
    Installed a advised above and engine starts and runs fine. Amp gauge NOW functional.

    Temp, gas, and oil gauge still not operational. They only work when the wiper switch is pressed in on position.

    Wipers still don't work.
    A voltage drop test on the b- circuit might be in order.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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    Quote Originally Posted by wrench459 View Post
    1.2 ohm primary coil or a 3.0 ohm?
    I am nut sure as the blue coil that was installed was a diamond brand L89 coil. See pic

    But since it running F and its finally wire wire transfer petronix instructions. I have decide to install the. 3 ohm flame thrower coil. However I'm confused. The flame thrower coil advises on removing the resistor wire with the a 1.5 ohm coil for 'race' and keeping the the resistor for 'normal'.

    What should I be running when I have the 38 carb, .2.0 valve, high comp piston. Performance cam, header upgrades on a casual driver? I dont want to get smoked by by prius at the stoplight either.
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    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by newbieGT View Post
    I am nut sure as the blue coil that was installed was a diamond brand L89 coil. See pic

    But since it running F and its finally wire wire transfer petronix instructions. I have decide to install the. 3 ohm flame thrower coil. However I'm confused. The flame thrower coil advises on removing the resistor wire with the a 1.5 ohm coil for 'race' and keeping the the resistor for 'normal'.

    What should I be running when I have the 38 carb, .2.0 valve, high comp piston. Performance cam, header upgrades on a casual driver? I dont want to get smoked by by prius at the stoplight either.
    Your resistor wire won't make or break your run against a prius.

    The resistor wire just takes the edge off the coil so it lasts longer and you don't pit your plugs.

    Less important on the pertronix than it is on points but still significant enough.

    If you're really worried about the Prius tail lights, install a resistor wire bypass switch.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
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    Humans are not an endangered species!
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    Apologies for the poor grammar and spelling. I am using a blackberry passport and I can type faster than the browser and it screws up the posts when I hit enter.

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    It's all about current.
    With the engine running charging system puttin out 14 volts.

    1.3 ohm primary ~ 10.8 amps
    3.0 ohm primary ~4.7.

    So how do want to limit the current flow?

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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    3.0 COIL, replace resistor wire, leave plugs gapped at factory, or open up .05.

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    Quote Originally Posted by newbieGT View Post
    Installed a advised above and engine starts and runs fine. Amp gauge NOW functional.

    Temp, gas, and oil gauge still not operational. They only work when the wiper switch is pressed in on position.

    Wipers still don't work.
    The Red/Black wire is the key here. You are not getting power to the gauges and they are all daisy chained together. The Red/Black wire goes through the black connector at the fuse box. Follow the yellow brick road (Red/Bk wire) and you will find the emerald city. Full color schematic attached.
    Attached Files Attached Files
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    Quote Originally Posted by newbieGT View Post
    Installed a advised above and engine starts and runs fine. Amp gauge NOW functional.

    Temp, gas, and oil gauge still not operational. They only work when the wiper switch is pressed in on position.

    Wipers still don't work.
    Installed what..? How are you sure the Amp gauge is functional.. ? ( IF you have a fully charged battery it won't move )

    If you installed a jumper to the coil from the (+) Of the battery ? If that worked and nothing else runs.. You need to remove the jumper wire after the test our you will burn out the battery and coil. Its just a test to prove the ammeter is dead and thus you have no power through the fuse panel.

    If you replaced the fusible link on the blue wire, then ammeter maybe good, but sounds like the ignition switch may not be as the "switched" side of the fuse panel is dead.

    If the gauges are getting power when you switch on the wiper switch that's because the power is back feeding from the switched side of the fuse panel to the unswitched via the wiper switch. But wiper won't work because they the switch field of the wiper motor is not getting power as the switch side of the fuse panel is dead. Think of it like water.. electricity is always trying to find ground.. and it doesnt care how.. it will keep flowing if it finds a path.

    So before going further pull the wiper motor and make sure its not fried or the plug isn't baked. Check the headlight wiring as well.. You have to find out why you had a major short before trying to give the short power again just to burn out other things.
    markandson likes this.
    CURRENT
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    '74 Opel Manta - "Barbara"
    '72 Opel GT - "Ginger"
    '05 Pontiac GTO

    In the past owned:
    '04 & 06 Pontiac GTO
    2 Bitters (#491/#439)
    '73 Commodore GS
    ATLAS ( 74 Manta w/ 2.8L LK5 )
    & many other Opels

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frozen Tundra GT View Post
    3.0 COIL, replace resistor wire, leave plugs gapped at factory, or open up .05.
    With the 3.0 in and the resistor removed - I'm back at sq1. Engine turns and doesn't run.

    With resistor on - runs no problem.

    Now I'm really confused and may go back to the 1.5 coil....

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    Owner of EZ2Wire.com My location GoinManta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by newbieGT View Post
    With the 3.0 in and the resistor removed - I'm back at sq1. Engine turns and doesn't run.

    With resistor on - runs no problem.

    Now I'm really confused and may go back to the 1.5 coil....
    I would go back to square one. Make sure its a 3.0 ohm coil, run a new 14ga wire from the switched side (confirm that there is 12v when you switch on car). It should run then. Or it has nothing to do with coil.. Or you have a bad coil.

    Also make sure you have a good charge on battery. I have chased gremlins just to find out I fixed the initial problem but now battery is weak.
    CURRENT
    '71 Opel Kadett 4 Door 36D (2.0 L w/ EFI & Auto) - "Mary Ann"
    '74 Opel Manta - "Barbara"
    '72 Opel GT - "Ginger"
    '05 Pontiac GTO

    In the past owned:
    '04 & 06 Pontiac GTO
    2 Bitters (#491/#439)
    '73 Commodore GS
    ATLAS ( 74 Manta w/ 2.8L LK5 )
    & many other Opels

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoinManta View Post
    ... run a new 14ga wire from the switched side (confirm that there is 12v when you switch on car)...
    Charles is dead on.
    The reason for the new wire is ...sometimes all the strands will break except one.
    That one strand will show the correct amount of voltage but WON'T allow enough current to flow.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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    Square 1 is right. There seems to be some misunderstandings in lingo and difficult to understand responses.

    Removed resistor and doesnt run

    add resistor, runs no problem.

    Did you replace resistor wire with regular wire and make sure it has 12v?

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