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Thread: Starts - turns over - runs for 2 seconds - dies. What the hell??

  1. #61
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    I'm thinking it's even a simpler. He forgot to REPLACE the resistor wire with a 12 from the key.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

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  3. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frozen Tundra GT View Post
    Square 1 is right. There seems to be some misunderstandings in lingo and difficult to understand responses.

    Removed resistor and doesnt run

    add resistor, runs no problem.

    Did you replace resistor wire with regular wire and make sure it has 12v?
    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    I'm thinking it's even a simpler. He forgot to REPLACE the resistor wire with a 12 from the key.
    With all due respect.... He doesnt need 3 wisenheimers all saying the same thing. I dont have the proper blood pressure to help him so I elect you or Charles to walk him through it. Concisely.

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    Doing electrical work over the internet is mind numbing.
    Everyone wants a simple "silver bullet" fix.
    What kills me is they are to lazy to post any type of electronic test results
    as in voltage drops,resistance or current values.

    Oh well I should just go with the flow.
    GoinManta likes this.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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  6. #64
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrench459 View Post
    Doing electrical work over the internet is mind numbing.
    Everyone wants a simple "silver bullet" fix.
    What kills me is they are to lazy to post any type of electronic test results
    as in voltage drops,resistance or current values.

    Oh well I should just go with the flow.
    It's OK.
    Many uneducated people don't know the difference between "electrical" and "electronic". We forgive you.

    Electrical requires little more than a test light. Electronics require a device to measure voltage drops, resistance and/or current values.

    If you ever figure out the difference, feel free to chime in.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

  7. #65
    Owner of EZ2Wire.com My location GoinManta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frozen Tundra GT View Post
    With all due respect.... He doesnt need 3 wisenheimers all saying the same thing. I dont have the proper blood pressure to help him so I elect you or Charles to walk him through it. Concisely.
    That may not hurt instead of having a 12 people tell him 12 different things..

    Lets start with the easy and more probable and work backward.. BEFORE getting into the ignition circuit, lets make sure the wiring isn't compromised. You had a major short and that can do all sorts of things to the wiring.

    First create a jumper wire with a inline fuse and run it between the two lugs on the fuse panel.. This will confirm both a short and the ammeter working or not working 100%.



    Confirm switched and unswitched power at the fuses on the fuse panel to make sure the ignition switch and the fuse panel are getting the power they need..? Using the wiring diagram you can see which should be switched and which should be unswitched circuits. Some fuses should be dead with the switch off and some hot. Then with the switchin the "run" position they should all be hot. Also make sure you have good fuses and they are tight in the fuse panel. Also when in the "run" position check on the switched side that when you wiggle the ignition switch the power doesn't flucuate. If you have a good volt meter check that the voltage at the fuses matches the voltage of the battery +/- a tenth or two.

    A interesting issue with OPEL wiring (especially on the GT and Manta..) it goes against GM color code in ONE way. In GM Red is unswitched and YELLOW is switched power and Black is ground. In Opel Red and Red/White are switched, Red/Black and Black are switched power (but not always sometimes Red is also switched.. dont ask me I didn't design it.. ) and Brown is ground.



    Anyway as you can see the Ammeter is in the middle of the circuit from the batter to the ignition switch.. I have seen Ammeter not fail a 100% and weird things happen. So putting a jumper in isn't a bad idea for anyone. Also I have seen the jumpers within the fuse panel fry killing certain circuits.. so its good to start back at the beginning and make sure your problem isn't in the fuse panel.

    Speaking of problems.. ? Did you find your short ? Possibly at the wiper motor or the headlights ? After a short I replace the fusible links at the alternator and the blue/whit wire. To ensure they are 100%. Half burned out ones will work but you will have low voltage due to the extra resistance.



    You have to make sure everything is good in the main power and ignition switch circuit before going to the ignition circuit. Because if you don't you may get it to start for a short amount of time and then it goes back and fries wires and/or fuses and you back to where you started from.

    Once all that is checked and fixed or at minimum disconnected.. Then look at the ignition circuit.

    #1 - Check battery (12.9+ or better, preferably in teh 13+ range ) You may have drained the battery during the first part of all this and the Pertronix can act funny without proper voltage.

    #2 - Check New Coil and make sure its a 3.0 OHM ( Will NOT say needs resistor or something like that ). FWIW Typically the "High voltage" aftermarket coils like the Yellow Acell coil from Advance Auto/NAPA are 1.5 some (like Bosch and generics) will have "Use with resistor" printed on then, but sometimes they neglect to mention it. Its easy to test.. with a simple Multimeter test the OHM across the lugs of the coil. What you may have been doing.. ( Sorry didnt read the whole thread ) was using the factory clear wire ( A resistor wire of 1.5 ohms itself ). I have seen them fry on a 3.0 Ohm coil. ALSO if using the clear wire to run the pertronix it can make the pertronix act flaky. So testing the coil for OHM eliminates a variable.

    #3 - Run a fresh clean standard 14 ga wire from a tested fuse of the switched portion of the fuse panel to the coil. You can put it where the clear wire was or is now. Personally after 40 years I don't trust them and that's why I always run a new wire in these cases. This also eliminates a variable. It also eliminates the need for the "power up" wire at the starter as your coil will always have 12V (if your running a 3.0 Ohm coil) .

    Try to start.. if it fails to start. Double check for spark at the spark plug.. ( It could be an ignition issue that turned into a fuel issue..). If no spark then it has to be the pertronix or the coil, very possibly the Pertronix. I have seen pertronix fail due to the ignition being left on too long.

    If you have a good spark well then it could be gas.

    Speaking of which, I know it sounds simple, but I know it has happened to "others". That while working on another problem trying to get a car to start, they ran out of gas and don't realize it and spent a lot of time diagnosing the easiest fix of all.. ( Of course that has never happened to me.. )
    Last edited by GoinManta; 10-28-2015 at 08:20 AM.
    Frozen Tundra GT likes this.
    CURRENT
    '71 Opel Kadett 4 Door 36D (2.0 L w/ EFI & Auto) - "Mary Ann"
    '74 Opel Manta - "Barbara"
    '72 Opel GT - "Ginger"
    '05 Pontiac GTO

    In the past owned:
    '04 & 06 Pontiac GTO
    2 Bitters (#491/#439)
    '73 Commodore GS
    ATLAS ( 74 Manta w/ 2.8L LK5 )
    & many other Opels

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    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    I'm thinking it's even a simpler. He forgot to REPLACE the resistor wire with a 12 from the key.
    Correct. I did not replace wire. Wasn't sure what to use to replace it. Have info now. Will replace that resistor wire and report back.

    I am very appreciative of everyone's input regardless.

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    Quote Originally Posted by newbieGT View Post
    Correct. I did not replace wire. Wasn't sure what to use to replace it. Have info now. Will replace that resistor wire and report back.

    I am very appreciative of everyone's input regardless.

    See #3 in Charles' wonderful post above.

    Stock coil is around 1.5 ohms and resistor wire is approximately 1.5 ohms. Since you are now using a 3 ohm coil there is no more need for resistor wire anymore, but still needs 12v from fusebox.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoinManta View Post
    That may not hurt instead of having a 12 people tell him 12 different things..

    Lets start with the easy and more probable and work backward.. BEFORE getting into the ignition circuit, lets make sure the wiring isn't compromised. You had a major short and that can do all sorts of things to the wiring.

    First create a jumper wire with a inline fuse and run it between the two lugs on the fuse panel.. This will confirm both a short and the ammeter working or not working 100%.



    Confirm switched and unswitched power at the fuses on the fuse panel to make sure the ignition switch and the fuse panel are getting the power they need..? Using the wiring diagram you can see which should be switched and which should be unswitched circuits. Some fuses should be dead with the switch off and some hot. Then with the switchin the "run" position they should all be hot. Also make sure you have good fuses and they are tight in the fuse panel. Also when in the "run" position check on the switched side that when you wiggle the ignition switch the power doesn't flucuate. If you have a good volt meter check that the voltage at the fuses matches the voltage of the battery +/- a tenth or two.

    A interesting issue with OPEL wiring (especially on the GT and Manta..) it goes against GM color code in ONE way. In GM Red is unswitched and YELLOW is switched power and Black is ground. In Opel Red and Red/White are switched, Red/Black and Black are switched power (but not always sometimes Red is also switched.. dont ask me I didn't design it.. ) and Brown is ground.



    Anyway as you can see the Ammeter is in the middle of the circuit from the batter to the ignition switch.. I have seen Ammeter not fail a 100% and weird things happen. So putting a jumper in isn't a bad idea for anyone. Also I have seen the jumpers within the fuse panel fry killing certain circuits.. so its good to start back at the beginning and make sure your problem isn't in the fuse panel.

    Speaking of problems.. ? Did you find your short ? Possibly at the wiper motor or the headlights ? After a short I replace the fusible links at the alternator and the blue/whit wire. To ensure they are 100%. Half burned out ones will work but you will have low voltage due to the extra resistance.



    You have to make sure everything is good in the main power and ignition switch circuit before going to the ignition circuit. Because if you don't you may get it to start for a short amount of time and then it goes back and fries wires and/or fuses and you back to where you started from.

    Once all that is checked and fixed or at minimum disconnected.. Then look at the ignition circuit.

    #1 - Check battery (12.9+ or better, preferably in teh 13+ range ) You may have drained the battery during the first part of all this and the Pertronix can act funny without proper voltage.

    #2 - Check New Coil and make sure its a 3.0 OHM ( Will NOT say needs resistor or something like that ). FWIW Typically the "High voltage" aftermarket coils like the Yellow Acell coil from Advance Auto/NAPA are 1.5 some (like Bosch and generics) will have "Use with resistor" printed on then, but sometimes they neglect to mention it. Its easy to test.. with a simple Multimeter test the OHM across the lugs of the coil. What you may have been doing.. ( Sorry didnt read the whole thread ) was using the factory clear wire ( A resistor wire of 1.5 ohms itself ). I have seen them fry on a 3.0 Ohm coil. ALSO if using the clear wire to run the pertronix it can make the pertronix act flaky. So testing the coil for OHM eliminates a variable.

    #3 - Run a fresh clean standard 14 ga wire from a tested fuse of the switched portion of the fuse panel to the coil. You can put it where the clear wire was or is now. Personally after 40 years I don't trust them and that's why I always run a new wire in these cases. This also eliminates a variable. It also eliminates the need for the "power up" wire at the starter as your coil will always have 12V (if your running a 3.0 Ohm coil) .

    Try to start.. if it fails to start. Double check for spark at the spark plug.. ( It could be an ignition issue that turned into a fuel issue..). If no spark then it has to be the pertronix or the coil, very possibly the Pertronix. I have seen pertronix fail due to the ignition being left on too long.

    If you have a good spark well then it could be gas.

    Speaking of which, I know it sounds simple, but I know it has happened to "others". That while working on another problem trying to get a car to start, they ran out of gas and don't realize it and spent a lot of time diagnosing the easiest fix of all.. ( Of course that has never happened to me.. )
    Before I get into this one thing struck me from your highlights. I don't know a fusible link from from the starter a highlighted and from the alternator as highlighted.

    What gauge wire of a fusible link goes her and what amp fuse (glass fuse) goes in these spots?

  11. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by newbieGT View Post
    Before I get into this one thing struck me from your highlights. I don't know a fusible link from from the starter a highlighted and from the alternator as highlighted.

    What gauge wire of a fusible link goes her and what amp fuse (glass fuse) goes in these spots?
    3 of these :
    Dorman - Conduct-Tite 14 Gauge Fusible Link Wire Carded 85620: Advance Auto Parts

    Or a roll of "fusible link" wire from NAPA will work. Doesn't have to be very specific. When you take the end off the alternator/starter/etc.. there will be a noticably different wire on the end.. pull it up and cut where the fusible link is soldered to the main wire. and replace from there.. 6" usually does it.

    You can crimp them on with crimp connectors for the time being.. but I recommend using these for a permanent fix.



    Amazon Amazon

    You crimp and then you heat it.. Then it solders and shrink wraps the splice. Worth every penny.

    As for the fuse 30 amp fuse will work. One like this:

    Bussmann In-Line Fuse Holder for ATC Fuses BP/HHD-30-RP: Advance Auto Parts

    Just put a fork / spade on each end and slide it under the nut in the fuse panel.

    http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/a...inal+connector
    Last edited by GoinManta; 10-28-2015 at 01:23 PM.
    CURRENT
    '71 Opel Kadett 4 Door 36D (2.0 L w/ EFI & Auto) - "Mary Ann"
    '74 Opel Manta - "Barbara"
    '72 Opel GT - "Ginger"
    '05 Pontiac GTO

    In the past owned:
    '04 & 06 Pontiac GTO
    2 Bitters (#491/#439)
    '73 Commodore GS
    ATLAS ( 74 Manta w/ 2.8L LK5 )
    & many other Opels

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    Opeler newbieGT's Avatar
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    OK. My volt meter died and I returned it to Canadian tire and they won't have the same model back until the 9th of November. I like that model and its price so I am waiting for it. So I don't have proper readings at battery at coil or at fuse box to list.

    And yes it is a 3.0 flamethrower coil.

    Taking the tips as mentioned earlier in thread, this is what I have done:

    - I replaced the black wire from the left of the starter that runs to the positive side of coil (which had a splice with a wire running to the choke of of carb) with a fresh new 14g wire. Wired carb choke wire to horn on passenger side.

    - I replaced the clear resistor wire with a 10 gauge (it's what I had on hand) on the positive side of the coil to the spot it occupied on the fuse box (which is switched side as per wiring diagram in thread post above).

    - I Did not yet put a fusible link to the red alternator wire or the black wire from the red white wire from the starter battery side that goes to fuse box.

    Results:

    - it started on first crank. With a gradual increase in Rev. I gave it some throttle after a bit and revs came down to idle. Sounded pretty good.

    - amp gauge works. Shows charging when started.
    - Gas temp and oil gages still not working.
    *** as mentioned before, if I hit the wiper switch the gauges started working. This time - nothing. And the fuse at the very end where the purple wires from the wipers connect, fizzles and dies. Car still running.
    *** I replaced white fuse with a 16amp red and went to check if there was power with the needle like circuit tester at fuse. Ok. Purple and yellow wire all connected and testing for we'll for circuit
    *** I went to try and test the circuit at the switch at wiper pump pedal and got a "red light" but I must have moved it too mutch and the circuit tester was touching the power and the other connections in the relay and sparked and fuse went out again.
    *** I replaced the fuse with another red 16amp fuse and decided to leave it alone.
    **** I stripped a screw at the wiper motor cover and my drill was dead so I will try to test the connection at the wiper motor.

    Will report back when I can test connection at wiper motor.

    With the petronix and coil set up there is a noticeable increase in power.

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    Owner of EZ2Wire.com My location GoinManta's Avatar
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    Before going any further, find your shorts.

    You can burn up your harness, especially if it's running.

    You only need fusible links, ammeter and one fuse ( the one to the coil) to hold to run. All while everything else is shorting. I've driven my car to get paint on only 4 wires and 1 fuse.

    That purple wire is power for wipers and may share the fuse with the gauges.

    DON'T increase fuse size, that will only cause more wiring issues...

    Again. Find the short before going else where or your just asking for and chasing many many more problems.
    Last edited by GoinManta; 11-02-2015 at 06:45 PM.
    CURRENT
    '71 Opel Kadett 4 Door 36D (2.0 L w/ EFI & Auto) - "Mary Ann"
    '74 Opel Manta - "Barbara"
    '72 Opel GT - "Ginger"
    '05 Pontiac GTO

    In the past owned:
    '04 & 06 Pontiac GTO
    2 Bitters (#491/#439)
    '73 Commodore GS
    ATLAS ( 74 Manta w/ 2.8L LK5 )
    & many other Opels

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    Just for grins and giggles.
    Take your circuit tester.
    Put one lead on battery negative.
    Flip the ignition switch on
    Put the other lead on the valve cover.
    What color does it glow?

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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    Quote Originally Posted by wrench459 View Post
    Just for grins and giggles.
    Take your circuit tester.
    Put one lead on battery negative.
    Flip the ignition switch on
    Put the other lead on the valve cover.
    What color does it glow?
    No glow/light

    On positive terminal light turns green

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    Owner of EZ2Wire.com My location GoinManta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by newbieGT View Post
    No glow/light

    On positive terminal light turns green
    Do this simple test..

    With key OFF and out of the ignition.. and if you have a modern radio disconnect it.

    Remove the Negative cable and run a test between the (-) of the battery and the battery cable.. should have ZERO volts..

    If you have anything more than zero you have a short in the harness and you need to find it.
    Frozen Tundra GT likes this.
    CURRENT
    '71 Opel Kadett 4 Door 36D (2.0 L w/ EFI & Auto) - "Mary Ann"
    '74 Opel Manta - "Barbara"
    '72 Opel GT - "Ginger"
    '05 Pontiac GTO

    In the past owned:
    '04 & 06 Pontiac GTO
    2 Bitters (#491/#439)
    '73 Commodore GS
    ATLAS ( 74 Manta w/ 2.8L LK5 )
    & many other Opels

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    Make sure the dome light is turned off or better yet remove the bulb.
    GoinManta likes this.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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    Quote Originally Posted by wrench459 View Post
    Make sure the dome light is turned off or better yet remove the bulb.
    I had new headliner installed and they didn't put the dome light back. So I am sure it's not connected.

  19. #77
    tomking My location tomking's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by newbieGT View Post
    I had new headliner installed and they didn't put the dome light back. So I am sure it's not connected.
    which begs the question: what did they do with the pigtails?
    GoinManta likes this.
    TMK

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    Senior Contributor markandson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomking View Post
    which begs the question: what did they do with the pigtails?
    There is a red wire in the rear harness that runs from the dome light to the fuse box. The rear harness can be found behind the drivers side kick panel so you should be able to see where it exits the top of the panel and spreads out to connect to all the points at the fuse box. Find the red wire and disconnect it from the fuse box. This will insure that you do not have a short due to the loose wire that is inside the headliner. Just a suggestion.
    Jeff

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  21. #79
    Opeler newbieGT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoinManta View Post
    That may not hurt instead of having a 12 people tell him 12 different things..

    Lets start with the easy and more probable and work backward.. BEFORE getting into the ignition circuit, lets make sure the wiring isn't compromised. You had a major short and that can do all sorts of things to the wiring.

    First create a jumper wire with a inline fuse and run it between the two lugs on the fuse panel.. This will confirm both a short and the ammeter working or not working 100%.



    Confirm switched and unswitched power at the fuses on the fuse panel to make sure the ignition switch and the fuse panel are getting the power they need..? Using the wiring diagram you can see which should be switched and which should be unswitched circuits. Some fuses should be dead with the switch off and some hot. Then with the switchin the "run" position they should all be hot. Also make sure you have good fuses and they are tight in the fuse panel. Also when in the "run" position check on the switched side that when you wiggle the ignition switch the power doesn't flucuate. If you have a good volt meter check that the voltage at the fuses matches the voltage of the battery +/- a tenth or two.

    A interesting issue with OPEL wiring (especially on the GT and Manta..) it goes against GM color code in ONE way. In GM Red is unswitched and YELLOW is switched power and Black is ground. In Opel Red and Red/White are switched, Red/Black and Black are switched power (but not always sometimes Red is also switched.. dont ask me I didn't design it.. ) and Brown is ground.



    Anyway as you can see the Ammeter is in the middle of the circuit from the batter to the ignition switch.. I have seen Ammeter not fail a 100% and weird things happen. So putting a jumper in isn't a bad idea for anyone. Also I have seen the jumpers within the fuse panel fry killing certain circuits.. so its good to start back at the beginning and make sure your problem isn't in the fuse panel.

    Speaking of problems.. ? Did you find your short ? Possibly at the wiper motor or the headlights ? After a short I replace the fusible links at the alternator and the blue/whit wire. To ensure they are 100%. Half burned out ones will work but you will have low voltage due to the extra resistance.



    You have to make sure everything is good in the main power and ignition switch circuit before going to the ignition circuit. Because if you don't you may get it to start for a short amount of time and then it goes back and fries wires and/or fuses and you back to where you started from.

    Once all that is checked and fixed or at minimum disconnected.. Then look at the ignition circuit.

    #1 - Check battery (12.9+ or better, preferably in teh 13+ range ) You may have drained the battery during the first part of all this and the Pertronix can act funny without proper voltage.

    #2 - Check New Coil and make sure its a 3.0 OHM ( Will NOT say needs resistor or something like that ). FWIW Typically the "High voltage" aftermarket coils like the Yellow Acell coil from Advance Auto/NAPA are 1.5 some (like Bosch and generics) will have "Use with resistor" printed on then, but sometimes they neglect to mention it. Its easy to test.. with a simple Multimeter test the OHM across the lugs of the coil. What you may have been doing.. ( Sorry didnt read the whole thread ) was using the factory clear wire ( A resistor wire of 1.5 ohms itself ). I have seen them fry on a 3.0 Ohm coil. ALSO if using the clear wire to run the pertronix it can make the pertronix act flaky. So testing the coil for OHM eliminates a variable.

    #3 - Run a fresh clean standard 14 ga wire from a tested fuse of the switched portion of the fuse panel to the coil. You can put it where the clear wire was or is now. Personally after 40 years I don't trust them and that's why I always run a new wire in these cases. This also eliminates a variable. It also eliminates the need for the "power up" wire at the starter as your coil will always have 12V (if your running a 3.0 Ohm coil) .

    Try to start.. if it fails to start. Double check for spark at the spark plug.. ( It could be an ignition issue that turned into a fuel issue..). If no spark then it has to be the pertronix or the coil, very possibly the Pertronix. I have seen pertronix fail due to the ignition being left on too long.

    If you have a good spark well then it could be gas.

    Speaking of which, I know it sounds simple, but I know it has happened to "others". That while working on another problem trying to get a car to start, they ran out of gas and don't realize it and spent a lot of time diagnosing the easiest fix of all.. ( Of course that has never happened to me.. )

    Hey gents, now that it has warmed up a little in the great white north it was time to get the vehicle out of storage.
    I had made the corrections from the battery/starter/coil/alternator as in the diagram.

    I disconnected anything to deal with rear window heater, side door buzzer, and dome light. Wrapped loose ends in electrical tape and made sure they were not touching anything.

    I was able to pull the dash out and look at the wiring inside and look at the red/black daisy chain and grounds going to speedo. There were a few lose connections and the daisy chain didn't look like the wiring diagrams that can b downloaded of the tech forum here.

    Then made sure the grey wires were going in all the right directions and to the right lamps.

    A previous owner/mechanic had made the daisy chain of red/black power to the amp gauge, then fuel then clock then back to temp gauge NOT like the wiring diagrams. Made the necessary changes as per the diagram

    Put the dash back *have an issue here with clips and will post in a another thread

    Put the steering column back *have an issue here and will post in another thread

    Started the engine and low and behold ALL GAUGES WORKING!! EVEN THE OIL LIGHT COMES ON!! I even thought the clock moved a few minutes but i think i was just imagining it.

    Now this thread had started because i turned the wiper switch on one night with all power accessories on and it killed the engine and worked everything back to rewire things made by previous owner and our mechanics.

    I have yet to test out the wiper switch as i had a stripped screw on the wiper assembly and cant take out the wiper motor yet until i get that stripped screw out.

    NOW there are 2 things i have questions about and may start a new thread on this but....

    The AMP light 'idiot light' is always on.

    The Oil gauge warning light comes on when i am at idle at a stoplight and pressure goes down to 1 bar. When i give it gas it goes back to 2.5 to under 3 when driving and light goes off. Whats going on with the oil pressure??

  22. #80
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by newbieGT View Post

    NOW there are 2 things i have questions about and may start a new thread on this but....

    The AMP light 'idiot light' is always on.

    The Oil gauge warning light comes on when i am at idle at a stoplight and pressure goes down to 1 bar. When i give it gas it goes back to 2.5 to under 3 when driving and light goes off. Whats going on with the oil pressure??
    Is the charging system working?
    That is puttin out ~14 volts.
    It could be that the light is not getting B+ on both sides of the bulb.

    Next up is O/P
    One bar HOT idle is not all that bad.
    I would as a first step install a mechanical gauge just for grins and giggles.

    Si vis pacem, para bellum "If you want peace, prepare for war"

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