speedometer

[OPELFIEND]

My speedometer just quit working, however the odometer works fine. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[hustlerzlife]

I have the same problem, but I bought my car with a broken speedometer. I took a look behind the gage pannel and it appears that several electrical connection pins are broken off. I assumed those were causing the problem, but I don't know for sure. I'm a noob.

[jlthunder]

Originally Posted by hustlerzlife I have the same problem, but I bought my car with a broken speedometer. I took a look behind the gage pannel and it appears that several electrical connection pins are broken off. I assumed those were causing the problem, but I don't know for sure. I'm a noob.

The speedometer is completly mechanical. No electricity required except for night illumination.

Your best bet is to get one off of E-bay. They pop up often.

[namba209]

A local speedometer shop should be able to repair the speedos, after all they are just mechanical gear boxes inside with a rotaing magnet that drive the needle and the odometer. As for the broken male spade lugs on the back case, they are just the common ground connections for the rest of the instruments and lites. HTH.

[hallgeir]

My speedometer has a rather loud "clicking" sound in it, that makes me crazy sometimes (I hate unwanted noise in the car), and it also shows too high speed, around 70 km/h when driving in ~50 km/h. Anyone knowing what that sound is, and could the wrong speed indication have something to do with the drive on the gearbox? I think I`ve read somewhere that there are two types.
The wheels are 185/70-13.

[Lindsay]

Originally Posted by hallgeir My speedometer has a rather loud "clicking" sound in it, that makes me crazy sometimes (I hate unwanted noise in the car), and it also shows too high speed, around 70 km/h when driving in ~50 km/h. Anyone knowing what that sound is, and could the wrong speed indication have something to do with the drive on the gearbox? I think I`ve read somewhere that there are two types. The wheels are 185/70-13.

Guess that 1969 & 1970 had speedometer external drive box? Speedometer gear inside 4-speed transmission should be blue with W=1062 (code under MPH). Not sure what speedometer code is for km/h?

I am also using 185/70-13 tires whick equal OPEL OEM 165SR-13 tires. My speedometer appears to be correct MPH, but cable sticks under 25 MPH and vibrates (when touched). Installed new speedometer cable from OPGTS several years ago; lubricated, but still did not resolve sticking/ vibration. Thought of installing extra speedometer purchased from eBay, but not yet.

Might try local repair shop as suggested, whenever old speedo is removed. Or ... if VDO repair shop can repair GT clock, I would think they could remanufacture/ repair speedometer. Might have to send VDO email to inquire?

[ronskydivepops]

[

Originally Posted by Lindsay Guess that 1969 & 1970 had speedometer external drive box? Speedometer gear inside 4-speed transmission should be blue with W=1062 (code under MPH). Not sure what speedometer code is for km/h?

Makes me wonder now? My speedo usually says 90 and I"m probably only doing 70. I just figured every driver here in Florida was a maniac. My GT is a 71, but it has parts from 69 thru 73 as far as I know. I thought maybe the 15" tires were giving me a different speedo reading. I'll have to do some more research, or ask a cop to clock me.

[Crazy Harry]

I have a 71 GT as well. Picked it up in August 2006. The PO had changed the speedo because it wasn't working. He put in a speedo with W=897 that he bought on e-bay, but it doesn't read the right speed, seems to be too high. He gave me the original speedo which had W=1062 on it. So I'm assuming the W=1062 is the correct version. BTW, the transmission in my GT is the manual, don't know if an automatic would have the same head unit.

Harold.

[ronskydivepops]

The speedo in mine is also a W 897 with a manual 4 speed. I've got a spare W 1062 hanging around. Don't really feel like pulling the dash to replace it. So I guess I'll just continue to drive around doing 90, even when I know I'm only doing 70. Really makes me wonder how fast I'm really going when I'm hitting 130?? Must keep my passengers wondering when they gaze over and see the speed at 90 as I zip around a cop on the highway.

[Crazy Harry]

I have an extra W=1062 speedo as well, but haven't had the ambition to pull the dash for the swap. Besides it's still too cold up here in Canada, it decided to snow for Easter

[opelgtworld]

Here is a short article, which I wrote some time ago for the German Opel GT Group. Perhaps it helps someone...



Ich habe schon einigen Tachos neues Leben eingehaucht, aber diesmal
habe ich es für euch fotografiert.

Vorsichtige Menschen sollten mit dem alten Meilentacho üben. Zuerst
muß der Chromring vorsichtig geöffnet werden. Dazu nehme ich
einen kleinen Schlitzschraubendreher und biege die umgebördelte
Seite Stück für Stück auf. Das geht mit etwas Geduld sehr
einfach.
Man sollte nur nicht versuchen, den Chromring abzuhebeln, da man
sonst die Glasscheibe zerbrechen kann. Also schon rundherum
aufbördeln. Das sieht dann so aus:



Aus dem Gehäuse mussen hinten die zwei kleinen Schlitzschrauben
herausgedreht werden:




Nun kann man die Mechanik herausnehmen und das Gehäuse beiseite
legen:




So sieht die Mechanik mit dem Ziffernblatt aus:

http://img300.echo.cx/img300/9702/p61700160fg.jpg

http://img300.echo.cx/img300/6486/p61700189ji.jpg


Das Ziffernblatt mit seinen "Ohren":

http://img300.echo.cx/img300/8537/p61700201ln.jpg


Hier ein Blick auf die Tachonadel, die ich bisher nur ein Mal
entfernen musste, weil ich ein anderes Ziffernblatt eingebaut
habe. Ich habe mir einen kleinen Holzstab mit einem Schlitz
angefertigt und konnte die Nadel damit vorsichtig abhebeln.
Im Normalfall kann man sich aber diese "Zitterpartie" ersparen:

http://img208.echo.cx/img208/2140/p61700218ls.jpg


Un hier der Nadelanschlag, an den die Nadel hörbar anschlagen
muß, nachdem man sie mit dem Finger auf "40km/h" bringt und
dann losläßt:

http://img208.echo.cx/img208/3522/p61700228by.jpg


Und wenn wir schon Mal dabei sind, wird der Kilometerzähler auf
"Null" gestellt:

http://img208.echo.cx/img208/7008/p61700240jc.jpg


Wer im Inneren seines Tachos mehr Technik erwartet hat, wird
enttäuscht:

http://img227.echo.cx/img227/7996/p61700254to.jpg


Das ist der Antrieb des Kilometerzählers:

http://img227.echo.cx/img227/2981/p61700266zt.jpg


Damit wir den Zähler schnell auf "Null" stellen können, wird die
Antriebswelle herausgenommen, indem man vorsichtig das Blech des
oberen Lagers nach oben biegt:

http://img231.echo.cx/img231/9353/p61700438hi.jpg


Die Antriebswelle aus Kunststoff kann nun herausgenommen werden:

http://img231.echo.cx/img231/2160/p61700453la.jpg


Ich habe es bisher immer so gelöst, dass ich einen Schlauch
erwärmt habe und ihn über das Zahnrad gestülpt habe. Dann
kann man mit einem Akkuschrauber den Kilometerzähler in kurzer
Zeit auf Null stellen, da wir jetzt die richtige Übersetzung haben:

http://img231.echo.cx/img231/8560/p61700498da.jpg


Die Probleme mit der "tanzenden" oder "hängenbleibenden" Tachonadel
hängen meistens mit einer gebrochenen oder schlappen
Rückstellfeder
zusammen:

http://img122.echo.cx/img122/2495/p61700379cc.jpg


...oder mit den üblichen Verharzungen durch altes Fett, das auch
durch die Tachowelle nach oben gefördert worden sein kann:
http://img122.echo.cx/img122/1305/p61700537jz.jpg


Ich entferne diese Verharzungen mit einem vorsichtigem Strahl
Bremsenreiniger und gebe dann etwas Balistol auf die Zahnräder und
Lagerstellen. Dann sollte der Tacho wieder so funktionieren, wie
wir es von ihm erwarten.

Im Moment bin ich dabei Meilentachos auf Kilometertachos umzubauen,
aber dazu später mehr. Ich hoffe dies war halbwegs verständlich
und hat euch ermutigt eurem Tacho auch mal selbst zu Leibe zu
rücken.

Gruß
Norbert
Opel GT World

[hallgeir]

Thank you very much, Norbert. That is a good article. When I read it, and saw those photos, I remembered that I opened up the speedo in my Ascona A, 27 years ago. With that in mind, I will try to do the same again. My speedo doesn`t have a code at the front of it. I couldn`t see at the back of it, have to get the car out of the garage first to be able to crawl under the dash. It`s on jack stands at the moment.

[hustlerzlife]

I have my gauge panel out and I'm switching out all PO's makeshift wire fixes and testing the switches. When I last drove my car, I remember the speedometer not working. It was sitting on the pin and would bounce up every once in a while. The odometer worked, but it seemed a little off but I'm not so sure. I put a nail in a screwdriver and stuck it into the speedo cable slot and it moved the odometer VERY slowly. How do I test the speedometer? How much does a shop make you pay to look it over?

[jvandyke]

Cable? It's mechanical only as I understand and if the cable begins to give up the ghost then it bounces. Mine bounces crazy at anything under 15 MPH but is fine above that. I read somewhere that the individual strands of the cable fray and catch up on the housing or something. Just a guess. Try running penetrating oil down the cable housing?

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/1e-othe...t-working.html

[wrench459]

Ten turns on the speedo cable should = one tenth of a mile on the odometer
now the speedometer needle is another subject maybe broken or more than
likely worn teeth, shafts ect ect

[jvandyke]

I took my speedo apart to reface the gauges. Now it doesn't work right. After the first install it wouldn't register anything until I got to about 60 mph, then it showed 20. I took it back out thinking I had put the needle back on with too much preload on the spring. This time it's much better but "flutters" a tad and isn't accurate, now reads high. Is this just a trial and error thing or is there a method to it or have I baked the thing? This last time I gently placed the sleeve of the needle shaft on the back of needle just barely on the shaft itself at a position just a bit below the pin then gently lifted the needle over the pin and pushed the needle on all the way. Maybe this time I have too little preload? The needle would just barely be held against the pin when at rest.
I did check the thing out and all seems well, nothing appears bent, the "can" didn't seem to contact the magnet.
BTW just how does this thing work and is this a common design? Seems a bit delicate (of course it wasn't made to be taken apart by an amateur mechanic 38 years later either). I translated the above german but couldn't make out much to help me.

[namba209]

The operation of the speedo is fairly common. The cup or magnetic plate rotates, via the speedo cable, which in turn drives the opposing unit by the magnetic field, which is held back by a spring and attached to the pointer. The faster the unit spins to more it drives the other piece against the spring and moves the pointer higher up the scale. If the residual magnetism in the plate gets depleted for one reason or another, the speedo no longer functions.

[jvandyke]

Originally Posted by namba209 The operation of the speedo is fairly common. The cup or magnetic plate rotates, via the speedo cable, which in turn drives the opposing unit by the magnetic field, which is held back by a spring and attached to the pointer. The faster the unit spins to more it drives the other piece against the spring and moves the pointer higher up the scale. If the residual magnetism in the plate gets depleted for one reason or another, the speedo no longer functions.

I drove the GT to work today (a rare treat in a Michigan January) and the speedo seemed pretty much the same as before I messed with it, that is it bounces at lower speeds and flickers a bit above 35ish but may indeed be "accurate" as measured against my fellow commuters which doesn't say much. I'll have to time it against the mile markers on the way home.
PS note to self: when working on dash and electrics at least secure wiring enough that your foot doesn't dislodge the fuel pump wire in the middle of heavy traffic in heart of downtown highways!
Luckily I coasted off a conveniently placed off ramp and knew what I had done so fix was easy but no less nerve racking.

[Gary Sullivan]

Sometimes in dry or dusty climates those cables can dry out and then they die pretty quickly. I had a relatively new cable which was dry and I had the bouncing speedo needle. I found that the Harley Davidson folks have some great cable lubricants in a spray can, which force lubricant down along the cable and that solved my dry cable problem.

[jvandyke]

My cable's okay, at least it powers the odometer fine and the speedo is working, just not great. I confirmed from mile marker timings (and I stumbled across one of the roadside digit speed checkers the cops put up so I made 4 passes) Speedo reads about 7 mph high. Guess I'll try to put the needle back on with a bit more tension this time. I did find a couple shops willing to fix or calibrate the thing.
Speedometer & Odometer Repairs — Overseas Speedometer doesn't say Opel but I emailed and asked and he said if it's VDO they'll do it.
then this one closer to me
Bob's Speedometer - Repair & Restoration of Speedometers, Clocks, Tachometers, Gauges and Sending Units
They said I can ship it in for estimate and if it comes out too high they'll ship back free.
The first one suggested driving along at a known speed (with a pace car) and push the needle on right at a known speed. Guess you reassemble everything on the gauge but the glass and mess with it, than make adjustments and put it all back together again.

Next time I take apart a good accurate speedo, I'll remove the pin first, note where the needle retracts to, mark it, then reverse the process on reassembly.

[jvandyke]

Here's another method I dreamed up that probably wouldn't work but is worth tossing out there.
Make an attachment to a variable speed device (drill, dremel) put speedo on the bench with attachment and use device to simulate spinning cable. Adjust speed of drill/dremel until odometer is turning at a given rate: one mile every minute. Check needle reading (should be 60mph), stop, reposition needle. Repeat.
But I think the speedo cable spins clockwise as you look down into it, CCW from the backside view as attaches to housing, whereas my Dremel spins the other way, so I'd have to reverse it, not sure you can, or use a drill but that's hard to maintain a constant speed with.....
Good thing winter has returned and I've got plenty of time to ponder.

[ungermm]

That sounds like it would work very well. The drill needs to be in reverse mode (I don't think dremels or roto tools go in reverse though). Getting a drill to go at exactly 1 mile a minute might be kind of hard because they are just not that finely tuned adjustable. Another way to adjust the needle would be to set the drill at a constant speed close to 60 mph and then see how much the odometer turns in a set time i.e. 1 minute. Most drills have a set button to hold the rpm's or you could use a zip tie if yours doesn't. If the odometer turns .9 miles in 1 minute, but your needle was showing say 65 mph instead of 54 mph (.9 X 60 = 54), adjust the needle and repeat for accuracy. If you increase the time of the test you will get better accuracy. Jerry

[jvandyke]

Sounds like fun, I hate to rack up miles that, that ain't no fun.

[GTJIM]

Originally Posted by hustlerzlife How much does a shop make you pay to look it over?

The local VDO agent (Parrott's Instrument Repairs) charged me $80 to dismantle, clean, re-lube and set a spare GT speedo to the milage of my car.
Looks like new ... and they guaranteed accuracy +or- 2% - thought that was pretty good value.

You can find VDO agents by searching the Web for the VDO website and there is a 'find-your-nearest-dealer' thingie there.

[ungermm]

If you try it yourself, fight the urge to spin the speedometer too fast. I had a tooth blow out of the odometer once as I tried to hurry up the process of resetting my odometer to 0 miles. Jerry