brighter interior lights

[jvandyke]

This is nuts. Can anyone actually see any controls at night in their GT? Rocker/heater mostly? I've cleaned it all up, new bulbs and tried lining the clear plastic conveyor with foil, shot the dimmer with contact cleaner. Some mild improvement but still pathetic. I need to know if that's all I can expect and either live with it or start modifying it. Before I do, I'm wondering what kind of voltage I should expect at the bulbs themselves. I'm getting a bit over 11.
Thinking of adding footwell lights (maybe these mounted in kick panel), somehow getting more out of the dome light and improving the above mentioned console lights. Have been researching. LEDs are nice as they're small and don't draw much but not as bright unless you have clusters also their light pattern is usually straight ahead.

[MICAH1]

Not sure about your setup, but if you still have the stock 35 amp alternator you may want to bump up to a 65 amp or greater.... Remember, before you get to steamed up on this topic, you have a 1969-73 auto!!! Search.... do the search on alternators.

[opelnut_1]

I run the higher output alternator but also like my lights BRIGHT run 65w low 100w high beams, to get a bit more light I opted for an adjustable regulator an run it closer to the 13.5 to 13.8 volt range, the down side to this is the battery in the car seems to need replaced a bit more often. 2-3 years when driving regularly (not quite daily driver).

Theoretically the bulbs wont last as long but I put new bulbs in everywhere (interior an exterior) when I did this 14yrs ago and dont think I have replaced one since.

currently experimenting with LEDs of the super bright. intensity is good but still not as wide a pattern as lamp

[jvandyke]

Alright, I'll look into the alternator thing. I'd eventually like brighter headlights too so maybe that's worth looking at now.
Maybe something is the system is weak and therefore everything is suffering?

[opelgt722002]

I wonder if the switch is going bad. The light intensity of the panel can be changed by pushing in the lower or upper half of the switch.

[newman27]

As an interim solution until you decide on fixed interior lighting, I have used a flexible light that plugs into the cigar lighter. The bulb is on the end of a flexible stalk that stays at whatever angle you place it in. You can aim it at the heater controls, etc. and then shine it outward when you want to glance at a map or your cell phone, etc. I think some additional interior lighting would be nice in general. The challenge would be to do it in a manner that isn't too overpowering.

Matt

[jvandyke]

Dimmer does function. All lighting brightens up a bit when engine is running. Just read alternator thread for an hour or so. Looks like this might be my first move as my headlight brightness is terrible too and there were several references to overall improved lighting.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by jvandyke Dimmer does function. All lighting brightens up a bit when engine is running. Just read alternator thread for an hour or so. Looks like this might be my first move as my headlight brightness is terrible too and there were several references to overall improved lighting.

It's probably the voltage. I remember when I switched to my first GM 63 amp alternator many years ago, the first thing I noticed was that my gauges were WAYY brighter. And the headlights too. Turns out my old alternator (or regulator) was only putting out 11.9-12.2 volts. My new GM internally-regulated alternator put out 13.8-14.0 volts.

Night and day, as they say...

[jvandyke]

Alright then, no light mods until alternator upgrade. Wondering if I need to check to see which alternator I have NOW, motor is 2,0E, not that the alternator came with the motor, just hate to swap like for like in case by then the Opel alt. was upgraded too? I read in an old post that '75 FI motors had 45amp alternators?

[namba209]

Quick and dirty way to check for an Opel alternator, is to look at the plug on the back. If it's a three wire and goes to a regulator, then it's probably an original. Best bet is to go with a one-wire GM with an internal regulator. They go up to 100 amps and don't take much to wire in and mount. I've got one on Willit?, mainly because of the computer, but within seconds of starting, the needle drops to 5-10 amps, so it doesn't appear to overload the stock wiring I've got in the charging circuit. Yeah, I'm frugal to use most of the original wiring. But every wire was physically and electrically checked. I guess maybe that's one reason why it took so long to do the project.

[opelwasp]

Don't waste your time. Get the GM 1 wire. I got one off an old Caprice, a 94 amp and it puts out awesome. There are some small mid 80's Corvette 1 wires on eBay for less than $60 that should fit too.

[jvandyke]

Good, will start looking for one. Leaning towards the 7127 (65 amp) that is commonly used. Napa, $42 $11 core. Can't remember now but that's a 1 wire?
Unless there's something better these days. Will poke around ebay a bit.
I think this is the F bracket mentioned?
eBay Motors: Alternator F-type Bracket Header Chevy small SBC NEW! (item 270204058841 end time Jan-20-08 17:26:52 PST)

[namba209]

If you have a sound system in the car with a fair strong amplifier, you may want to go to a higher amp alternator than the 65 amp. Check with the parts guy at your local outlet and see if they can match up the 7127 style with one of a higher rating. Yeah the 7127 is a one-wire alternator too.

[markandson]

Originally Posted by jvandyke Good, will start looking for one. Leaning towards the 7127 (65 amp) that is commonly used. Napa, $42 $11 core. Can't remember now but that's a 1 wire? Unless there's something better these days. Will poke around ebay a bit. I think this is the F bracket mentioned? eBay Motors: Alternator F-type Bracket Header Chevy small SBC NEW! (item 270204058841 end time Jan-20-08 17:26:52 PST)

That is the "F" bracket. I have a new 65amp alt., a chrome modified adjustment bracket, the F bracket, the pigtail so it will self excite. The only thing you would have to do is slot the F bracket, I can even throw in the socket head cap screws to bolt the F bracket to the block and front cover. I would have to look up all my old invoices to come up with a price but if you are interested just pm me. I bought a chrome 105amp so I don't need this one.

[BQS4]

Since there's talk of upgrading here, I was going to do the 65 amp alt, but, since I'm running all the aux lights, I'm going to do the 105 amp alt, but, I have a new "rebuilt" 65 amp alt that I'll let someone have for what I paid, $40 and whatever shipping is. The shipping won't be much, as that's what I do LOL

[jvandyke]

Which 105 are you going to use? I might take you up on the 65 but if a 105 will work for similar money, maybe that's the way to go. Something must be up with mine as I'm not using any extra juice besides an electric fuel pump. Stereo has only it's own internal amp and that ain't much.

[rockytopmark]

Isn't there a possible overload issue with the stock fuseblock when increasing the Alternator output current?

[opelwasp]

Yes I believe I just had this problem. The wires at the posts were getting very hot. Almost melted. Dennis at OGTS suggested I run a wire directly from the alternator to the battery. It worked great. It does render the amp gauge useless but with a 94A alternator a gauge that only reads 30 is pointless. Plus as far as I can tell new cars don't use amp gauges anymore for a reason. Seems volt meters are all that is necessary nowadays.

[namba209]

Originally Posted by rockytopmark Isn't there a possible overload issue with the stock fuseblock when increasing the Alternator output current?

Not really Mark, The voltage will be between 13.8 and 14.2 volts during maximum charging, what is of concern would be the amp output of the alternator, that's what generates the heat in the wiring, and would be detrimental. With the 105+ amp alternator I have in Willit?, almost immediately after starting, the ammeter needle will momentarily go to the positive peg and then drop to the 5 or 10 amp mark, then slowly go down to just above the 0 mark. With the 10 gauge wires in the charging circuit, along with the fusible links, there shouldn't be a problem in the fuse block, if all the connections are clean and tight.

[markandson]

I am addressing this problem right now during my rebuild. I put a secondary fuse block right behind the fuse box, hung it from a small custom metal bracket. I am going to run another 10ga wire to this block (6 circuits) and use a 30 amp relay to power the block up when the key is on. All my new stuff will run from these 6 circuits so the original wires will not be stressed due to extra current.

[namba209]

Having a second fuse block is not a bad idea, if for no other reason than to keep from overloading the original fuses. Unless you have the inlet power to the relay from the battery directly, all those extra circuits will still be powered through the ammeter.

Probably the best reason to use a voltmeter instead of an ammeter is that almost all the power from the battery/alternator is routed to a power fuse panel in the engine compartment and the voltmeter can tap off any power source with smaller gauge wire. It's a bean counter thing, I suppose.

[jvandyke]

Would alternator upgrade make it even more prudent to protect the ignition switch with a relay (aka; Ottostart)? I did this long ago but for someone coming along after?

[namba209]

Originally Posted by jvandyke Would alternator upgrade make it even more prudent to protect the ignition switch with a relay (aka; Ottostart)? I did this long ago but for someone coming along after?

IMHO an "Otto-Start" should be installed on all Opels, for no other reason, than to save the ignition switch from going south. The alternator upgrade doesn't impact the starting cycle any more than without the upgrade. The start cycle is totally dependent on the battery for a power source.