Electrical Problems

[littleD55555]

The car runs well and all the lights and gauges work, but only when the car is running. When the key it turned to the on position, the lights or gauges will not come on, but once the car it started they all start working. This just doesnt seem to make sense. what could it be?

[markandson]

Look at the voltage regulator, it must be related to the alternator coming on stream when the engine is running

[timemachine]

Do you mean the head and taillights won't come on unless the car is running? If so I would check the + battery cable, too much resistance there could be the problem. Also check the fuses and connectors for corrosion. The light switch is wired directly to the battery, not with the regulator in between, so I don't think that is the problem.
Jim

[namba209]

I would start at the 4 studs in the center of the fuse panel after checking the battery posts and the starter solenoid wire from the battery. The route of power is from the battery to the solenoid, to one of the 4 studs, through the ammeter, than back to another of the 4 studs, then to the headlight relay from another stud. Also the ignition switch gets power from one of the 4 studs to operate everything else. In reality, battery power comes in and is tied to the alternator, via a bus bar across two studs, then in and out of the ammeter through the other pair of studs. Check your ammeter for a deflection to the negative side with the key on and engine not running, that will indicate if there is flow from the battery through the ammeter and back to the other circuits. HTH.

[Dennis Texas]

Originally Posted by littleD55555 The car runs well and all the lights and gauges work, but only when the car is running. When the key it turned to the on position, the lights or gauges will not come on, but once the car it started they all start working. This just dosnt seem to make sense. what could it be?

Your car electricals are wired to the Alternator out ( I think that is the only way you would have everything work while running but not with key just on), the only thing you have on the actual battery is the starter circuit sounds like. I'm curious how the charging circuit is wired to prevents the battery back feeding through the alternator charging circuit to supply battery voltage to the fuse assembly when just key is on, it must have a seal in relay that picks up the charging system once you get to start position on key? Try clicking it to start but don't start it then to on, does lights and stuff indicate as working that way, with out engine running?

[wolf32]

I would start by removing the wiring harness and replacing it. Just Kidding. But when things start going south with the lucas wires the best thing to do is dump it.

[littleD55555]

the car has a stater button, and a second ingition switch, the key on the steering columb doesn't start the car only unlocks the collum. Nothing at all works when the car isn't running but when it is running everything works except for the blower motor for the heater, i just cant figure it out and ideas

[Turbo X]

maybe this will help

opel_gt_fuse_box_schematic - Opel Photo Gallery

[timemachine]

If someone has added a starter button and ignition switch to the system, I'm going to guess your problem lies somewhere in there. You need two conditions to start the car. First, the ignition must be turned on (the "on" position of the ignition switch, which also lights the oil and alternator lights). Second, while the ignition is on, you turn the key past the on position to trigger the starter solenoid, (which has been replaced by your starter button). Since the "start" and "on" positions are bypassed, I'd have a look at the wiring to those circuits and any loose or disconnected wires. It's possible the switch rewiring also picked up positive voltage for the whole car, lights etc.

You can bypass the "on" position by connecting a wire from the battery positive to the + side of the coil, which will turn the ignition on just like the ignition switch does.

Jim

[Turbo X]

jumping wires is not a good idea.. the ignition switch activate a hole host of circuits not just the start function.. you will be chasing electrical problem from then on if you do.... best and only solution is to get a ign. switch that works for your car and hook it up right way... clean all connections, all grounds, and your problem will go away..
no disrespect to anybody in here, but the right way is the only way when it comes to electical systems.

[littleD55555]

Thanks you for the great advice and the quik replies, I guess will purchase an original ignition switch. Sould I leave the ignition button or dose it cause problems, I kinda like it.

[littleD55555]

Originally Posted by timemachine If someone has added a starter button and ignition switch to the system, I'm going to guess your problem lies somewhere in there. You need two conditions to start the car. First, the ignition must be turned on (the "on" position of the ignition switch, which also lights the oil and alternator lights). Second, while the ignition is on, you turn the key past the on position to trigger the starter solenoid, (which has been replaced by your starter button). Since the "start" and "on" positions are bypassed, I'd have a look at the wiring to those circuits and any loose or disconnected wires. It's possible the switch rewiring also picked up positive voltage for the whole car, lights etc. You can bypass the "on" position by connecting a wire from the battery positive to the + side of the coil, which will turn the ignition on just like the ignition switch does. Jim

the oil and altinator lights do not light up when the key is in the on position only for a second once the car it running.

[timemachine]

Originally Posted by littleD55555 the oil and altinator lights do not light up when the key is in the on position only for a second once the car it running.

I am starting to think it is either high resistance in the added ignition switch or circuit or someone has inserted a relay in the ignition circuit (a common practice) which is now failing for the same reason.

Originally Posted by Turbo X jumping wires is not a good idea.. the ignition switch activate a hole host of circuits not just the start function.. you will be chasing electrical problem from then on if you do.... best and only solution is to get a ign. switch that works for your car and hook it up right way... clean all connections, all grounds, and your problem will go away.. no disrespect to anybody in here, but the right way is the only way when it comes to electical systems.

A good idea if you have access to a working switch with harness and connectors. You'd normally be able to be able to plug it right into the main harness without disassembling the column (don't forget to ground the switch). Still might work but your wiring is alread modified, so I would see what's going on there first and make sure everything runs into the switch harness before swapping.

No disrespect taken Turbo X. I'm all into "the right way" and on older cars including these Opels you should know that the right way is a moving target that can cost a lot of money. I'm into tracing symptoms, I don't buy stuff before I know something is broken. Jumping the battery to the coil does exactly what the ignition switch "on" position does and is a practical way to test it while keeping other circuits out of the equation. It's how mechanics tested switches when these cars were new. (The only exception would be in the rare case of having shorted starter, which could overheat your jumper wire if you try to start the car, but that's a different symptom. If the starter works it is not an issue and you can also test the switch without turning the starter.)

Another example in the FSM shows how a jumper is used to test the regulator. But since you brought it up I want to agree for safety's sake you should be careful about jumper connections and make sure they don't slip or short. And if you don't have explicit directions you should ask someone who knows first. But we're not working with computers before the 1975 models, and a sensible backyard mechanic who can handle a torque wrench can do these tests productively.

Better than buying a new ignition switch ($$$), then a harness ($$$), then an alternator ($$) etc. Knowledge is power.

Since I'm an oldtimer I'll also relate that it's also the way we learned to hotwire cars in the 60s. You connect the coil from the battery then jump the starter to the solenoid with a screwdriver and you're gone -- if you don't have an column lock, that is. I've never stolen a car but I did get friends in their old cars home when they lost their keys.

Jim

[littleD55555]

Also sometimes when the engine Isn't being reaved and I flip up the lights the car will stall if that helps at all.

[littleD55555]

[QUOTE=timemachine;160488]I am starting to think it is either high resistance in the added ignition switch or circuit or someone has inserted a relay in the ignition circuit (a common practice) which is now failing for the same reason.


Where would I find this relay?

[littleD55555]

Ok I have power at one of the 4 studs on the fuse box but there is no power at the ampmeter, when the car isnt running. but when is is running there is, whats could it be?

[Dennis Texas]

Originally Posted by littleD55555 Ok I have power at one of the 4 studs on the fuse box but there is no power at the ampmeter, when the car isnt running. but when is is running there is, whats could it be?

If a load (headlights) makes it die when not revved up tells me that the starter circuit is separate from the cars electrical system. The starter is wired to the battery through your auxiliary add on switch and the 12 volts for coil comes from solenoid in start position, after it starts the alternator is firing the coil the car electricals are wired to the alternator. If the coil was wired to the battery it would not of died but since it was such a load at low RPM's it killed the voltage to the coil making car die. To test this out run a jumper from the alternator 12 out to the battery connection on the starter and it should fix your symptoms and then for a reliable solution for the wiring error.

[namba209]

Originally Posted by littleD55555 Ok I have power at one of the 4 studs on the fuse box but there is no power at the ampmeter, when the car isnt running. but when is is running there is, whats could it be?

Here's how the wires on the four studs should be hooked up. All fours studs should be hot all the time, so something isn't hooked up right.

[littleD55555]

Originally Posted by Dennis Texas To test this out run a jumper from the alternator 12 out to the battery connection on the starter and it should fix your symptoms and then for a reliable solution for the wiring error.

I did this and now everything is working great thanks alot would have never figured it out without you guys!

[Turbo X]

Check this out...
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/picture...6&pictureid=58
the stud are marked for simplicity and to help you understand whats happening,,, but first off let's talk about shop safety, use and understand all operator manual that come with your equipment and by all means use safety goggles:Lao i always wanted to say that..)
as you can see all for stud have a buss bar connecting two or more circuits together, the journey stats at post A, it comes from the battery/starter post using a fusible link, you must have power there or the fusible link is bad, A & B post are connected by a buss bar, these need to be cleaned and tight, B then goes to the amp meter ,and back down to the buss bar post C,D,and fuse 4 , these will have power as well, and any thing hooked to it, from 4 it goes to the white plug to the ignition switch the power will stop there until you put it into run position which will activate the other circuits, start position goes to the starter solenoid thats why the switch burn out due to the 30 amp across the switch.. thats another story.. your problem sound like when you start the car your alternator , witch connect to post D. is activating the system and giving you a problem, I say (A) problem because the first problem was never fix it was just bypassed..and that needs to be addressed and repaired.. so what would i do.. (sell it)
first off the fuse block consist of brass and secured by means of a nut or three or more plates riveted together and they get loose with time and tarnish,and loose contact with each other so spray them down with wd40 and move them around , pull your plug off and make sure there clean and connect. find all grounds and do the same, getting power to the four post is your first step, when thats done find out if the wires to the ign switch are in good shape and have continuity or power you may need to pull the switch to get to the plug.. remember there should be power to the switch and a short will blow the fusible link ,, just be carfull... see where the power for the starter switch is coming from and if they use a different wire to the starter or using the cars... you may have to remover what was done and put it back to original to find the first problem and start from the beginning..