GT Hood Hinge broken?

[sawdust]

When I open the hood, all the weigh appears to be on the left hand hinge.
The hood woobles and I know something is loose.
The Right hand hinge/bracket flops around but I don't know how it is attached. Can I get some suggestions on how to repair this problem or do all GT hoods open this way??

[jordan]

If that hinge appears to bear no weight it could be because it is out of adjustment (the four bolts that attach the hood are in slots on the hinges to adjust them.) There is nothing missing in the second picture, the bracket is made out of a small piece of angle iron that attaches it to the body.

[sawdust]

The hood closes and latches, but then again I am controling how it closes.
I haven't tried to force weight on to the right hinge. I thought that this hood may not be the original and .....

On what does the hood rotate when it is raised/lowered.

[kwilford]

Posts split to a new thread.

Have a look at where the hinge bolts to the body. It is common for the hinge to seize, and then tear the sheet metal on the body, next to the headlight bucket, as shown in these photos. HTH

[sawdust]

Kwilford, your picture #3 is perfect. HOW does the hood rotate if the cross rod is fixed solid. BTW, I am not a mechanic. But I can take verbal abuse.

I tried to attach another picture but I don't see it so it may come up twice.

[jordan]

The ends with the small piece of angle on them are not fixed to the tubing of the hinge, the tubing rotates around the pins that are attached to the small pieces of angle.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by sawdust HOW does the hood rotate if the cross rod is fixed solid.

It's not solid, that is...it shouldn't be solid. The center section is merely a tube, and the angle-shaped pieces at the ends of the tube are attached to the inner 'hinge' which spins within that cross-tube. Yes, they are prone to rusting, I used to 'rebuild' the hinges 20 years ago, and added grease fittings to prevent them from future rust.

[kwilford]

Originally Posted by sawdust Kwilford, your picture #3 is perfect. HOW does the hood rotate if the cross rod is fixed solid.

The end brackets (the right angles with the bolts) are attached to separate rods that rotate inside the long tube. Sometimes one side seizes while the other doesn't, so it seems stiff on the seized side.

But it also causes the sheet metal tab to tear away from the body, so that will need to be repaired. If you are "doing" the body, the proper way is to re-weld it to the edge of the headlight bucket (the welding might wreck the paint). As an interim repair, some folks fabricate another piece of angle, with a hole to fit the hinge bolt, and then pop rivet the other side to the bucket.

A good thing to do at that time is to remove the hood (the four bolts), then the hinge (two end bolts), and un-seize it. Install grease zerks to the long tube at the ends so it can be greased from time to time, then re-install.

HTH

[sawdust]

Thanks to all above. I see the light. Now I have to find a body shop to do the repairs.

[baz]

Originally Posted by kwilford The end brackets (the right angles with the bolts) are attached to separate rods that rotate inside the long tube. Sometimes one side seizes while the other doesn't, so it seems stiff on the seized side. But it also causes the sheet metal tab to tear away from the body, so that will need to be repaired. If you are "doing" the body, the proper way is to re-weld it to the edge of the headlight bucket (the welding might wreck the paint). As an interim repair, some folks fabricate another piece of angle, with a hole to fit the hinge bolt, and then pop rivet the other side to the bucket. A good thing to do at that time is to remove the hood (the four bolts), then the hinge (two end bolts), and un-seize it. Install grease zerks to the long tube at the ends so it can be greased from time to time, then re-install. HTH

The only two gt hinges i have taken to bits have had small stubs in the main pipe with the angle brackets welded on not a full length bar
they were held in by 4 pinch points(done with a press or an over grown bolt cutter type tool ) that ran in a groove in the stubs so never could grease them as it would push the stubs out but i did use to oil mine with a hole drilled in the cross pipe

[GTJIM]

Unbolt the four hood bolts and remove it - two person job!
Then remove the hinge by unbolting the two mounting nuts.
Now clamp the angle bracket on one end in a vise after an application of penetrating oil and carefully rotate the whole hood bracket - you may need to apply some heat to eventually free it up.
Now do the same for the other end bracket.
Drill a tiny centre drill hole between two of the crimps that Baz mentions and pump some oil or grease into the hole - just a little to lubricate things.
Have a good look to make sure the hole is able to be accessed once the hinge is bolted back on so it can be lubed a couple of times a year.
With luck a larger 'penny' or 'chassis' washer will allow you to bolt the hinge back on without having to weld anything.

Use caution as the whole hinge and mountings are very fragile and not made to be very highly loaded - "Ghee that is a bit stiff .. I'll fix it later" leads to disaster!

[hhg]

Taking it apart is no problem. Been doing that since I was two. Putting it back together again so it closes is a different story.

Let's continue that saga later.........

Again, Thanks to all above.

[sawdust]

Originally Posted by kwilford The end brackets .......... seizes ....... it also causes the sheet metal tab to tear away from the body,

Well I found the culprit. Now how do I get in there to make repairs.

Does the belly pan got to come off ? Do I have to remove the Master Brake Cylinder ? Is there a little person out there with torch/welder ?

[baz]

to do a full repair properly its a case of engine out , rad out and sit in the hole to get room to work so you can get in with a welder (one person not two before the wisenhiemers say anything)
with yours being the drivers side you may have to remove the M/C (its sure easier to put back with it out)
most do a fix by making a plate to bolt/rivet in to the cross bar and light bucket and live with it
the main thing is to get the hole as near to the right place as you can so when you refit the working hinge you have less to do aligning everything and run some masking tape (low tack if you can get it ) round the hood lip and fender lip to protect the paint from chips

next its off to the docs and have 2 -3 extra joints fitted to your arms so you can bend them to the unnatural angles needed to refit the two nuts


enjoy

[sawdust]

Originally Posted by baz .......its a case of engine out ........enjoy

I wasn't quite ready for that.


Does kwilford have any spare parts ?

Thanks
Cheers

[opelbits]

If he doesn't, I have a complete nose section (hood opening to bumper, headlight hole to headlight hole) that has a good hinge assembly. I could remove just the stuff you need.

I'm also just down in St. Louis.

[jerseydave]

Not sure how to add a link to a thread, but if you do an advanced search for hood hinge and thread started by jerseydave posted 0n 3-30-2005, there was a response with what I'll call a temporary fix with a couple of plates bolted on. I'll figure out how to link someday. This is what I used to repaired my hinge and it seems to be working fine.

Here's the link,http://www.opelgt.com/forums/2a-body...ght=hood+hinge
Hth, Jarrell

[Bill Hoffmann]

I made this repair in 2002 and it's been working fine since. I did several things at one time. First, the engine was coming out, second, the headlights needed rewiring, and of course the hinges were bad. Following are some photos of how I fixed the hinges.

First, I removed the engine and radiator. I can't imagine doing this work otherwise. These two photos show the broken sheet metal on the right side. The left side (not shown) was still hanging on, but getting ready to come apart also.

[Bill Hoffmann]

Next, I made cereal box cardboard patterns for the repair pieces.

[Bill Hoffmann]

Here are the repair pieces installed. I made them out of 16 gauge steel and attached them with 3/16" steel rivets. I believe this will have all the strength you need without damaging your paint by welding.

[Bill Hoffmann]

Here are some views from the front. I also added a grease fitting which can be seen in the third photo in the middle of the tube.

[baz]

bill do you still have the template ? if so could you scan it /them and post with measurements for members to use
its much easier to use a set up that works instead of making a new design every time

[kwilford]

Originally Posted by baz to do a full repair properly its a case of engine out , rad out and sit in the hole to get room to work so you can get in with a welder (one person not two before the wisenhiemers say anything) with yours being the drivers side you may have to remove the M/C (its sure easier to put back with it out)

I hate being right. And baz, that was EXACTLY what I described. The details of the tube crimp holding the inner rods are obvious once it is removed.
Not really necessary to remove the engine, but it can help to remove the MC. Which is almost as much work as dropping the engine. Again, there are ways around it. I was able to repair mine by reaching in from the front, through the grill opening, with the MC in place.
First, unbolt the hood. Next, unbolt the hinge assembly from the body. You will need to un-seize the offending hinge side, and take the time to clean up both sides, and lubricate generously. I like the grease zerk to facilitate future lubrication.
Then bend the part of the sheet metal back into place. I was able to stick my single-jointed arms and a MIG welder up into the corner and weld the sheet metal back into place. But be forewarned, it will almost certainly damage the paint. Another choice (as I mentioned above) is to fabricate a small piece of angle (heavy sheet metal will do), with a hole to match the hinge bolt. One side over the sheet metal that the hinge attaches to, the other to the side of the headlight bucket. That side can be fairly easily welded, as you should be able to avoid overheating the top surface paint. Or pop rivet it, or bolt it, or whatever you choose. The side that goes over the hinge hole should stay in place with the hinge bolt, or you could weld/rivet/bolt it in place as well.

HTH

[kwilford]

Yep, EXACTLY as Bill described. I was able to poke my arms up through the grill opening and repair it from the front, but removing the radiator would also make it easier. I think you can work around the MC fairly easily; just watch you don't have too long a screw going through into the headlight area, as they might hit the bucket as it rotates

[sawdust]

Originally Posted by Bill Hoffmann I made this repair in 2002 and it's been working fine since.........

I like your approach. I think I can get er done without pulling the engine.

I am going to try to do it through the front grille.