Trouble Making Keys-need Pinning Kit

[scodari]

I've had my door locks at a locksmith for about two weeks; he's been trying to make a set of keys for me. He was able to order the key blanks but he says he needs a "pinning kit" which he says he can't find anywhere.

Has anyone had this problem before?

Any suggestions?

Has anyone found a locksmith that has done this before?

[73Manta72gt]

The key code should be on the metal that rotates when the key is turned. some digits like BB741.

[scodari]

He found the key code but has told me that the pinning kit is what makes the key work in the cylinder, it is a verity of difference size wafers that when you put the key in the cylinder it allows the cylinder to turn and appareantly, the Opel ones are a special size so that other wafers from other manufactures will not fit???

[jvandyke]

So you have no key to start with then? Working from nothing?

[scodari]

I had a key but it was very worn down - it did go into the ignition and with some wiggling, it would unlock the ignition. I had a drivers and passenger door lock; the key would not work in either lock, the drivers door lock waas visually damaged.

[DennisGardiner]

Originally Posted by scodari the key would not work in either lock, the drivers door lock waas visually damaged.

If it is too badly damaged, you may need to find another lock, then have it disassembled and have the wafers swapped around to math the key/s match.

Done that myself over 12 years ago,..... it's not easy.

[GTJIM]

With the locks - just remove them and fit the key that you have the most of - for spares - and then file the brass bails ('wafers') down flush with the barrel with that the key in it. That way they will all work with the same key! You do need to have the lock cylinder out to do this.

[pecje]

Originally Posted by GTJIM With the locks - just remove them and fit the key that you have the most of - for spares - and then file the brass bails ('wafers') down flush with the barrel with that the key in it. That way they will all work with the same key! You do need to have the lock cylinder out to do this.

GTJIM, could you please be a little bit more specific, because I don't quite understand you are meaning (maybe it's because I'm Dutch). You see I have a similar kind of problem. One of my locks needs a different key than the one I need for the ignition and the other door.
It would be much easier if I could use the same key for all the locks. At this moment I have the locks out because I'm having the handles rechromed. So if anyone could tell me what to do to alter that one lock I would appreciate it very much.

[Mach1Tom]

Originally Posted by scodari He found the key code but has told me that the pinning kit is what makes the key work in the cylinder, it is a verity of difference size wafers that when you put the key in the cylinder it allows the cylinder to turn and appareantly, the Opel ones are a special size so that other wafers from other manufactures will not fit???

The "Key Code" is just that, a code. You then need the book or opel pages from one to decifer it. It tells what needs cut on the "SHOULDER" & "PLAIN" side of the key blank. The bulletin says it's used for Curtis Industries Key Cutters at the dealerships.

I have the Opel Service Bulletin with all the Key Codes to cut "BB" & "CC" key blanks for Codes 501 to 3000 This covers from 1965 to 1974.

If you PM me your "BB" or "CC" # from the shaft of the door lock key button, I will tell you the cut code. This may help the locksmith.

~ Tom

[GTJIM]

Originally Posted by pecje GTJIM, could you please be a little bit more specific, ... At this moment I have the locks out because I'm having the handles rechromed.

Since you have the lock cylinders out that makes it very easy:- just insert the key of your choice and see that some of the thin, brass bails stick out past the surface of the die-cast cylinder. For the lock to turn these need to be flush with that surface ... so simply file them back level ...

The lock works by those bails springing out when the key is removed and 'locking' into the slot in the lock outer body - thence it can turn, with the key in, when they are flush with the cylinder surface ....

Quick, brutal and nasty ... but it works and allows the use of the same key in all locks so dealt to - even the gas cap ...

Also, give the cylinders a wee puff of powdered Graphite or Mica to dry-lube them before putting them back in - makes them much smoother to operate.
Oh! ... and DO NOT spray CRC5-56 or such 'lubes' into frozen or stuck locks - use Electro-Contact Cleaner or Carb Cleaner as both completely evapourate and leave no sticky residues inside.

If you have an old, worn key then just get some new ones cut from it then brutalise the cylinders/bails to work with the new key(s) as they will be close to correct and only a little will need to be filed off the bails that stick proud of the cylinder ...... QED

HTH

[GoinManta]

I have a key guy in Richmond, has blanks and rekeyed on Opel Manta column for me and rekeyed a GT cap.. both with no codes.. just the item and blank.. very inexpensively too..

No website, no email, but will probably take a call and if you ship to him he could make them.

He is running out of some more common Opel blanks.. seems someone locally is using up his supply

charlies lock shop loc: Richmond, VA - Google Maps

Charles

[pecje]

Originally Posted by GTJIM Since you have the lock cylinders out that makes it very easy:- just insert the key of your choice and see that some of the thin, brass bails stick out past the surface of the die-cast cylinder. HTH

Thanks for your advice, however nothing is sticking out. Does this mean that I also have to remove the cilindrical dust cover. But that is crimped on the lock How do I get that of without damaging the lock? And if I get it of how do I get it back on?

[GTJIM]

If there are no thin brass plates sticking out when you put the key into the cylinder then you have the correct key to unlock it - that is how they work.
When you remove the key you will see that the thin brass plates pop out - that is how they lock. Some will go out one side - the rest out the other.

See the picture below - the thin brass plates show up against the silver coloured body of the cylinder. As long as these plates are not sticking out with the key in there the lock should work.

If you have a different Opel key slide it into the lock and see the difference - some of the brass bails will stick out - by filing them down with the key in the lock will now work with the 2nd key ... but, now, will no longer work with the original key.

Please do not try removing the stainless cap - it will never go back on properly!

[pecje]

GT Jim, the lock on your picture looks completely different than mine. Unfortunately my computer crashed yesterday and I'm not able to upload a picture of my lock. But browsing through the threads I found a thread (dismantling of doors/locks) where Wolfman3002 describes how to dismantle a lock and from the description he gives I believe that my lock is similar to the one he refers to.