R & R Headlight Cable?

[broszzy]

Can any one tell me if the headlight cable can be taken out of the liner for a good cleaning

Thanks Broszzy

[BQS4]

I don't think so, but, someone may be able to prove me wrong. I have a spare cable, out of the car, I could look tonight, when I get home.

[broszzy]

Ya I tried but I don't think it comes out either, it would be nice if it did. I got some wd40 worked down in an it is working better.

Pat

[newman27]

OK, this is going waaaaay back 20+ years when I first purchased my GT. The cable was gone completely but I had a lead on a frozen up cable at a junk yard. Someplace, I recall reading that you could drill small holes along the length of the cable and inject it with grease. I can't vouch for this working and I never did get the cable and try this. So, take that for what it is worth (maybe not much ). If it were me, I'd buy a brand new replacement from OGTS. I'm using one of those in my car and it works great!

HTH

Matt

[broszzy]

Thanks Matt, just out of curiosity on a scale from 1 to 10 how hard should they be to turn over? I got to rotators apart cleaned lubed and reassembled light buckets back in and adjusted, they all turn very well, now I'm rewire ring the lights then I can get the cable hooked back up and see how mine work.


Pat

[newman27]

Originally Posted by broszzy Thanks Matt, just out of curiosity on a scale from 1 to 10 how hard should they be to turn over? I got to rotators apart cleaned lubed and reassembled light buckets back in and adjusted, they all turn very well, now I'm rewire ring the lights then I can get the cable hooked back up and see how mine work. Pat

On my car, they require a good firm push all the way thru the range of motion on the lever to "snap" them in place. Anything short of that and they will not lock properly. Closing them is easier, presumably because pulling is easier than pushing. You should be able to push them open in a continuous fluid motion without any sticking or having to use extreme force. I'm not sure how to rate them on a scale though - this is the best I can describe the effort required.

Matt

[yellaopelgt]

Mine roll over fairly easy....The only thing is,you have to be a bit assertive and make sure that they"click in" at the end of the roll. If I could put it in terms of foot pounds... I would have to say maybe 6to8 or so. Or on a scale of 1-10 I would say a 2-3. I still need to put in a in line fuse to make them a seperate entity myself......
HTH
Joe

[namba209]

Here's a primer on how the rotating mechanism works, and I'm sure Keith will jump in if I'm not correct. First off, the first and last tooth on the sector gear is not full length, it looks like it is worn down, but it's supposed to be that way. It has a purpose. The rotating mass is what locks the buckets open and closed, the smaller teeth on the sector allow the buckets to keep rotating past the teeth and impact the overcenter locking jaws in both positions. There is a fairly stiff spring on the jaws that needs to be overcome to lock the arm in the jaws. To unlock the jaws, to rotate back, the first movement of the sector, before the teeth engage the rotater, unlocks the jaws which allows the buckets to spin back to the opposite locking position. Here's the reason most of the spring arms break on the mechanism. There are supposed to be three split roll pins in the center hub of the mechanism. These pins take up the impact forces of the rotating mass. The three bolts that break or come loose allow the spring arms to eventually eat through the bolts and they break. A preventative measure would be to check these bolts and pins periodically, to be sure the pins ar fully engaged in the arms and the bolts are tight. HTH.