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Old 01-12-2004   #1 (permalink)
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Unanswered: gt headlights

hey guys:

i need to know if anyone can tell me exactly which wire goes where on my gt's headlights. the schematic sort of shows it, but i may not be reading it right. does the brown wire go in the middle position?

i don't see a lot of difference between high and low beam...not sure why.

any help would sure be appreciated.

mike
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Old 01-12-2004   #2 (permalink)
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headlights on the gt are definitly problimatic at best. I would look at this thread, great information.

headlights

Good luck to you. Also make sure to use the search feature for more threads, this has come up several times on the board.
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Old 01-12-2004   #3 (permalink)
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i have searched and searched, to no avail. nowhere can i find a picture or description of which wire goes where.
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Old 01-12-2004   #4 (permalink)
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In that thread it has this article:
headlight repair

Look at page 3, gives a picture

Which brown wire are you talking about? Drivers or passenger side?
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Old 01-12-2004   #5 (permalink)
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on both headlights...they both have a three prong connector that goes on the back of the headlight. in that three prong connector are three wires: yellow, white and brown. brown is ground, and whit and yellow are low and high beam. this is the same for both lights. both lights wires split off of their main feed wires on the left side of the car, just behind the radiator support. this is where you would start if you were to replace the crappy old rubber wiring in a gt.

i will try the link you sent.
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Old 01-12-2004   #6 (permalink)
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i checked that link you sent. i'm not working on the micros...i'm talking about the plug that goes into the back of the headlight itsself!
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Old 01-12-2004   #7 (permalink)
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Looking at the DESTEC schematic and comparing it with my GT harness, currently out of the car, where the wires go into the plug, from the rear, the colors are: Left is Brown, Top/Center is Yellow and Right is White. Again this is looking at the plug where the wires go into the plug. HTH.

Ron
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Old 01-13-2004   #8 (permalink)
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if you looked at yours, and that is what you found, then it is a bit different than the schematic. it shows brown in the middle, and that is how i wired mine, but it isn't right. thank you namba. i will try your way tonight.

mike
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Old 01-13-2004   #9 (permalink)
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namba:

thanks a ton for the correct wiring. i tried it as soon as i got home tonight (i even skipped dinner), and the lights now work the way they are supposed to. high, low & the dash indicator works as well!!

thanks again,

mike
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Old 01-14-2004   #10 (permalink)
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No Problem!! That's what this site is all about. If I didn't have my harness out, I would have told you the same thing about the wire locations. The schematic I have was definately well worth the money I spent on getting it. JJ Wheatley did a fantastic job on drawing it out and color coding it. All the wires are easily traced from start to end without needing a magnifying glass, and the notes are helpful for making mods to the system for various aftermarket add-ons. Glad to help.

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Old 02-26-2004   #11 (permalink)
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not really posting a question, just adding my 2 cents to this
had to re-wire my headlights in my GT today, somebody already re-wired them previously, there was more wire bare than cover, and all 3 wires on each side were the EXACT same color, man talk about a pain. using one of Otto's previous posts in this thread, i figured it out, about which color wires went to what prongs on the headlight plug in, and just ripped the wiring out until i got to the origional harness just infront of the radiator support/front firewall. i used some wire that had soft rubber coating, not stiff stuff, and it had some black nylon type threading inbetween the 3 wires and they were all wrapped with a tougher, yet still very flexable outer rubber covering. this is actually really nice stuff to do the headlights with, easy to feed the wires, soft, heavy duty, i'll post the ratings on it tomarrow, i forgot what it says, but it has it written all over the outter coating. 69 cents a foot, only used 8 foot. less than ten bucks gives you the insurance that your not gonna toast your GT on friday night cruisin. heard a horror story on here in some other thread about a freshly restored GT that burnt to the ground on its first night out!!!
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Old 02-27-2004   #12 (permalink)
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hi guys, spoke to soon last night and now i am posting a question.
headlights worked fine last night, even after rolling them over repeated amount of times. wanted to show dad, turn the key on, worked on high and low, fliped them over and they shut off, flipped them back over and they wont turn back on, and the white light on the dash wont shut off. any suggestions?
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Old 02-27-2004   #13 (permalink)
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Greensmurf, checking the DESTEC schematic, I would first look for a disconnected Grey/Green wire with male/female spade lugs somewhere between the instrument panel and the fuse panel. You may have kicked the wire with your feet getting in and out of the car. Without that wire hooked up no signal to the white headlight indicator. If that doesn't fix the problem, check for power to the headlight relay. Those are the easisest to check out. The rest is checking the connections at the microswitches in the headlight holes. HTH.

Ron
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Old 02-27-2004   #14 (permalink)
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i rejetted the weber today and was playing with it, now that it runs right and i raped it up twice, actually nice to see the car rocks now, haha. anyway, on the 2nd rap the headlights came back on for a second time. so before they went out i went with a test light and tested the wires going to the micro switch on the passenger side again. checked them after ron suggested it when the headlights were off, with key on, and both ends were dead, and by both ends i mean in the fuse block. when the lights were on, both wires were hot. so i'm assuming the problem is on the backside of the fuseblock, correct? i'll probably have it figured out by time anybody responds, but just incase, suggestions are always appreciated.
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Old 02-27-2004   #15 (permalink)
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well. still can't figure it out. lost lights again so its hard to test for much now until i get them back, and who knows when that'll be....lol. anyway, the grey wire with green stripe runs from the microswitch, to the fuse block, then into the Red plug in for the dash wiring harness. i'm assuming this wire is then going to go to the driving light switch...? could this have anything to do with it, altho flipping the switch dont seem to affect it any at all. i'll continue to reseach this all night.....
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Old 02-28-2004   #16 (permalink)
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The grey/green will only have power when everything else is working and lights are on. Check the red wire on your headlight relay for power with the key on, lights wherever. Then again key on check the black wire on the fuse block, second from right position. You need power at both these locations, no matter where the lights are. No voltage at these two are likely a contact problem. Now with the buckets up check the yellow/black wire on the headlamp relay. If no power you probably have a switch problem. Have you tried wiggling the drivers light bucket to see what happens in the up position? Just an idea.
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Old 02-28-2004   #17 (permalink)
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Greensmurf, you should have power on the red wire all the time going to the headlight relay behind the fuse panel, the red wire comes from the left rear stud in the middle of the fuse panel. The black wire going to the driver's side microswitch gets it's power with the key on at the rear of fuse #6, if I have my fuse location and numbers right. With the headlights up and locked, the black wire goes through the microswitch and turns into a Yellow/Black wire that powers the headlight relay which then turns on all the lights. HTH.

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Old 02-28-2004   #18 (permalink)
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Or it could be the age old bad ground. This time coming off terminal #86 on your headlamp relay with that same old brown wire.
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Old 02-28-2004   #19 (permalink)
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the red wire, has a black stripe around it right? that always has power as it should, guess i need to test the black one when i go back out to fool with it today, test some of your guys troubleshooting ideas. shouldn't be anything real hard, the worked great with the old nasty wiring that was bare everywhere, and they worked for a day with new wiring.....
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Old 02-28-2004   #20 (permalink)
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If your white light on your dash board will not turn out that means that your buckets are either NOT locked up or NOT locked down. It is ON for ALL other positions.

Are your bulbs good? (I just tried to start an Opel with no gas, it helps to ask the basics sometimes; acutally I had gas; I think it got siphoned off: I knew I had two gallons).

Know how to tell how much gas you got with an Ohm meter--I do. That plot is posted somewhere up here. If not, request a copy.

Back to lights. Micro switch is connected to the Head light relay; head light relay is connected to the Dimmer Relay; Dimmer Relay is connected to the White or Yellow wires; and the White / Yellow wires are connected to the head lights.

Since your White lights stays on (I am doing this from memory--no drawing in front of me) Is that the same micro switch that picks up the Head Light Relay? if it is; start there.

Overrides: you can pull the white or yellow wire off the dimmer relay and connect them directly to the 4 hot nuts and your lights should come on. Ask for someone to look. The put those wire back onto the Dimmer Relay and take a jumper to the (I believe) White yelow wire that picks up the Head Light Relay (that is the one with (4) no. 87 terminals out. IF that relay picks up you also should have head lights ON. Ask for someone to look.

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Old 02-28-2004   #21 (permalink)
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thanks to azzi helping me this morning over AIM, and some diagrams he sent me i got my headlights figured out. a switch on the drivers side is sticky. so since the headlights dont like to work barely at all, i temporarly ran a wire from terminal 85 on the headlight relay to the empty fog light switch in the dash, and from the switch to one of the 4 nuts that are hot all the time. so when the headlights dont work, i just flip the switch. they're getting better, sorta, so i'm hoping after driving and using them more they'll work alot better on their own and i wont have to use the "temporary jumper" anymore, and i can just get rid of it again. thanks everybody, especially azzi for the off forum help. even drove it tonight for the first time with new paint, 2.0, clutch, and some other stuff. completely different car.....
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