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Old 03-30-2006   #51 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by asdasc
Hi Keith,
First I want to thank you for such a well documented procedure to fix the rotators. Supurb work.
I have working headlights now, but they do take a little effort, and I want to KEEP them working. Can you show us where exactly to get in with the white lithium grease to lubricate things? Preferrably, with the least amount of disassembly.
I need a step by step guide like this with pictures for the preventative maintenance!
Thanks,
You are quite welcome. I think a SMALL amount of lubricant is better than too much, as it will tend to gather dirt and become a hindrance rather than a help. I used a bit of of spray "Fluid Film" on the sliding surfaces of the outer gear, and a bit of white lithium grease on the teeth.
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Old 03-30-2006   #52 (permalink)
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Can you get at those areas with the nozzle of a spray can without tearing everything apart? Maybe under the hood or with the lights flipped half over?

I looks like the parts that need to be lubricated are deep inside, right? What about the cable? If it is ok now, is it enough to just lube the ends a little?

Thanks,
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Old 03-30-2006   #53 (permalink)
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Steve, I would lube both ends of the cable and take the top covers off and spray the rotators with some light lube. Only three screws per light. I have to do this again as mine started acting up yesterday as I was checking things for the trip to Charlotte. I think they were not locking in and my "White light" wasn't coming on as they transitioned. This morning it worked correctly, but as I will be traveling in the early morning hrs, I need headlights and as you said it is good preventative maintenance.
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Old 08-30-2007   #54 (permalink)
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i've worked on a lot of cars for the family business and we like to use "PB penetrating catalyst" its magnetic so it will work even if the bolt head is facing down. its never failed on me and I'm quite certain you'd love it too
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Old 01-15-2008   #55 (permalink)
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Looks like I've got nothing but fun ahead. The second of the three little M5 screws broke the other day. I knew one was broken a long time ago but this second one breaking is hindering the rotation of the headlights now...

I had one headlight out a long time ago before paint so I kind of know what to expect in that regard. Hope my paint survives!
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Old 01-15-2008   #56 (permalink)
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If you can't get the bolts that are supposed to be in the mechanism, SAE 10-32 bolts will work just fine. The thread and pitch are an almost exact match. Just be sure to use high grade ones, the common hardware variety are too soft and won't last very long. Use masking tape around the perimeter of the bucket hole and on the bucket too, maybe even two layers. It's so easy to ding the paint getting the buckets out.
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Old 06-14-2008   #57 (permalink)
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This is such a great thread especially the photos of Keith's. Thank you!!

How much pressure is needed to lock and unlock the rotors? I'm not as strong as I used to be, but it takes two hands to lock the rotors and even more to unlock them when they are out of the car. Is this typical? I've cleaned them thoroughly and relubricated them, but they are still tough. Please advise.

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Old 06-14-2008   #58 (permalink)
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Denny, when I had mine out, I grabbed the rotating arm and squeezed it like a pair of pliers. It did take quite a bit of force, the overlocking springs are hefty. Once they are unlocked it should rotate easily. You have to remember the rotating mass of the complete assembly is what locks the buckets either open or closed, and a hefty pull or push on the handle is what unlocks the overcenter lock jaws. HTH.
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Old 06-28-2008   #59 (permalink)
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Does anybody knows if these

eBay Motors: Switch and Wire kit for Electric Supercharger (item 230248608014 end time Jun-30-08 01:06:21 PDT)


switches fits?
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Old 06-28-2008   #60 (permalink)
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It's hard to tell by the picture but it does look to be the same microswitch that's in the headlight buckets. The actuating arm may be a bit too short though.
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