head light install

coolchrisp · 10-30-2005

right now i think i am the most frustrated person alive... I recently had my GT painted and now its time for re assembly.. except i cant reinstall the headlight buckets. after 5 continuess hours of trying and 500 million paint chips later i need help. ive tried every possilbe way in my mind but now i need a step by step procedure by a pro... please help me out..

very angry..

but thankful
chris

yiger · 10-30-2005

Sorry, I don't have a 'step-by-step' for you, but I've been told, and have also read, that when you remove and reinstall the lights, you need to tape the edges of both the lights and the light-wells to prevent paint chips. Sorry I don't have more info, but atleast its a good start to saving your new paint job!

nobody · 10-30-2005

How far apart are they? rotators out? just the buckets? A pic would do wonders of where to start the explaination from. Keep in mind the lights go in at a 90 degree angle fitted to the back first, then rotated open to put the bolts in. Only one book I've ever seen gave a step by step and it was in German.

Best description is "it's like working on a rubics cube" Every move you make will seem backwards of what you want and to fix the top you work from the bottom.

GTJIM · 10-30-2005

5 hours! It took the bodyshop man, his assistant and myself THREE DAYS to get mine in and correctly aligned.

1) Tape the edges of the hole in the body with a couple of layers of wide masking tape.
2) Make sure you are trying to put the left one in the left hole and visa versa with the right one ... (don't ask!

)
3) loosen the lower pivot and remove all the bits of the upper pivot
4) Learn LOTS of new words - most descriptive of the designer's ancestry
5) Manouver the bucket around till it falls into place - trust me! It does eventually.
6) Now move on to the similarly difficult task of getting all the upper mounting bits into place.
7) Start adjusting everything till it all lines up and rotates correctly ......

HTH

EJprovost · 10-30-2005

Oh how I know how much this hurts! It cost me $500 to repaint and fill the chips, I did get the door done too for installation of an original mirror, (had an extra hole to fill there). This time I have told Jed (body and paint man) not to take the headlights out, only roll them open and take off the cover, then roll them shut to paint. He said he could get the inner parts by rolling them half way twice. He was not happy either after taking these headlights apart! It took three trips out for "Nobody" to correct the damage, and adjust them properly.

nobody · 10-30-2005

Liz There was a reason your's got to me a bit and after talking to Jed I understood. On Thumper they were completely out and fully painted and back in and it only took a few hours. That included the rotators out for full paint. I learned to read German with the workstation handbook so light adjustment is engrained in my brain. once you learn how you never forget it.

Bo Mows · 10-30-2005

Hey Cool,

I just removed mine completely also and it took me asking how to get the rotators out, and Namba sent this link. Man what a perfect description.

After reading it serveral times before taking them out, I really don't think there would be any trouble putting them back in.

Check out this link. HTH

http://clubs.hemmings.com/frameset.cfm?club=oana

Bo Mows · 10-30-2005

I do have 1 question i should have asked before. This link shows a microswitch on the passenger side. Mine does not have one. Is it necessary?

Bo

namba209 · 10-30-2005

Bo, you have a 69, and the wiring is different on the early GTs. "Nobody", is just about as sharp on those years as anyone on the site. You may want to query him on the actual hook-ups. HTH.

nobody · 10-30-2005

Bo that was a addition to the wiring in late 71. The other microswitch will trigger the not closed white light in later years if they both aren't locked. before that only the drivers side would trigger an unlocked position. You can see this both ways in 72 cars depending on where they were built and actual manufacture date. Trust me, my pair of 72s didn't match electricly and it took 2 shop manuals and a clymers to sort it out all for the same year.

Bo Mows · 10-31-2005

Thanks, That explains why both headlight leads were going to the driver side.

Bo

coolchrisp · 11-07-2005

Well after reading all of this exteamly helpful hints i finally got them all in a nd working like champs. i cant get teh spacing on each side perfect, but it dont hit so im happy.

thank you all ,and please dont ever let me take them out again!!

chris

GTJIM · 11-08-2005

Chris,
Most of us remove the headlights ... twice!

The First and the Last time.

10-30-2005	#1 (permalink)
coolchrisp Curve Crazy GT Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Grosse ILE,Michigan Posts: 442	Unanswered: head light install right now i think i am the most frustrated person alive... I recently had my GT painted and now its time for re assembly.. except i cant reinstall the headlight buckets. after 5 continuess hours of trying and 500 million paint chips later i need help. ive tried every possilbe way in my mind but now i need a step by step procedure by a pro... please help me out.. very angry.. but thankful chris

10-30-2005	#2 (permalink)
yiger Opeler Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Sicklerville, NJ Posts: 64	Sorry, I don't have a 'step-by-step' for you, but I've been told, and have also read, that when you remove and reinstall the lights, you need to tape the edges of both the lights and the light-wells to prevent paint chips. Sorry I don't have more info, but atleast its a good start to saving your new paint job! __________________ Jeff Support the Coast Guard, get lost!

10-30-2005	#4 (permalink)
GTJIM Old Opeler Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: New Zealand Posts: 5,686 Provided Answers: 12	Mere Bagatel! 5 hours! It took the bodyshop man, his assistant and myself THREE DAYS to get mine in and correctly aligned. 1) Tape the edges of the hole in the body with a couple of layers of wide masking tape. 2) Make sure you are trying to put the left one in the left hole and visa versa with the right one ... (don't ask! ) 3) loosen the lower pivot and remove all the bits of the upper pivot 4) Learn LOTS of new words - most descriptive of the designer's ancestry 5) Manouver the bucket around till it falls into place - trust me! It does eventually. 6) Now move on to the similarly difficult task of getting all the upper mounting bits into place. 7) Start adjusting everything till it all lines up and rotates correctly ...... HTH __________________ GTJim Opel Owner since last Century! Copyright © 2000-2009 J D Henry All Rights Reserved

10-30-2005	#5 (permalink)
EJprovost Senior Contributor Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Utah Posts: 592	Those darn headlights!#!@#$#^&!* Oh how I know how much this hurts! It cost me $500 to repaint and fill the chips, I did get the door done too for installation of an original mirror, (had an extra hole to fill there). This time I have told Jed (body and paint man) not to take the headlights out, only roll them open and take off the cover, then roll them shut to paint. He said he could get the inner parts by rolling them half way twice. He was not happy either after taking these headlights apart! It took three trips out for "Nobody" to correct the damage, and adjust them properly. __________________ "Original Opel GT owner 1971, 1973" "Enjoy The Ride!" 1969 GT, 1973 GT "Quazar" 1995 Camaro Z28 New Birthday presents for daughters: 1970 GT, 1971 GT

10-30-2005	#7 (permalink)
Bo Mows Bo Know's '69's Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Olive Branch, MS Posts: 268 Provided Answers: 1	Hey Cool, I just removed mine completely also and it took me asking how to get the rotators out, and Namba sent this link. Man what a perfect description. After reading it serveral times before taking them out, I really don't think there would be any trouble putting them back in. Check out this link. HTH http://clubs.hemmings.com/frameset.cfm?club=oana __________________ Buy it. Build it. Drive it. The rest is easy.

10-30-2005	#3 (permalink)
nobody No Access Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: in transit Posts: 3,873 Provided Answers: 1	How far apart are they? rotators out? just the buckets? A pic would do wonders of where to start the explaination from. Keep in mind the lights go in at a 90 degree angle fitted to the back first, then rotated open to put the bolts in. Only one book I've ever seen gave a step by step and it was in German. Best description is "it's like working on a rubics cube" Every move you make will seem backwards of what you want and to fix the top you work from the bottom.

10-30-2005	#6 (permalink)
nobody No Access Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: in transit Posts: 3,873 Provided Answers: 1	Liz There was a reason your's got to me a bit and after talking to Jed I understood. On Thumper they were completely out and fully painted and back in and it only took a few hours. That included the rotators out for full paint. I learned to read German with the workstation handbook so light adjustment is engrained in my brain. once you learn how you never forget it.

10-30-2005	#8 (permalink)
Bo Mows Bo Know's '69's Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Olive Branch, MS Posts: 268 Provided Answers: 1	I do have 1 question i should have asked before. This link shows a microswitch on the passenger side. Mine does not have one. Is it necessary? Bo __________________ Buy it. Build it. Drive it. The rest is easy.

10-30-2005	#9 (permalink)
namba209 6,000 Post Club Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego Posts: 6,054 Provided Answers: 6	Bo, you have a 69, and the wiring is different on the early GTs. "Nobody", is just about as sharp on those years as anyone on the site. You may want to query him on the actual hook-ups. HTH. __________________ Ron 72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed. 75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next

10-30-2005	#10 (permalink)
nobody No Access Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: in transit Posts: 3,873 Provided Answers: 1	Bo that was a addition to the wiring in late 71. The other microswitch will trigger the not closed white light in later years if they both aren't locked. before that only the drivers side would trigger an unlocked position. You can see this both ways in 72 cars depending on where they were built and actual manufacture date. Trust me, my pair of 72s didn't match electricly and it took 2 shop manuals and a clymers to sort it out all for the same year.

10-31-2005	#11 (permalink)
Bo Mows Bo Know's '69's Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Olive Branch, MS Posts: 268 Provided Answers: 1	Thanks, That explains why both headlight leads were going to the driver side. Bo __________________ Buy it. Build it. Drive it. The rest is easy.

11-07-2005	#12 (permalink)
coolchrisp Curve Crazy GT Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Grosse ILE,Michigan Posts: 442	yay! Well after reading all of this exteamly helpful hints i finally got them all in a nd working like champs. i cant get teh spacing on each side perfect, but it dont hit so im happy. thank you all ,and please dont ever let me take them out again!! chris

11-08-2005	#13 (permalink)
GTJIM Old Opeler Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: New Zealand Posts: 5,686 Provided Answers: 12	Salutory Lesson ..... Chris, Most of us remove the headlights ... twice! The First and the Last time. __________________ GTJim Opel Owner since last Century! Copyright © 2000-2009 J D Henry All Rights Reserved

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