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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 341
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Unanswered: body repair help in window area
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#2 (permalink) |
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Member
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I can only guess that the rust occured because the rubber moulding failed. You can use POR-15, fiberglass or bondo for a temporary fix but the rubber moulding needs to keep the metal dry so the rusting process is slowed down
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Paul "azopelnut" Heebink 1956 Studebaker Power Hawk 259 V8 1970 GT 12A-Rotary 5-speed 1972 GT 2.0, 5-speed 1973 (2) GTs, both 1.9 4-speed 1973 Ascona 4-door 1.9 4-speed A/C 1974 Manta, 1.9 Auto A/C 1975 Sportwagon 1.9 FI 4-speed A/C 1975 Fiat X19 |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Duluth,Ga.
Posts: 649
Real Name: John
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Cut out the rust area and weld in a replacement piece .
I suspect you will find more damage after you remove this section . HTH Good luck John
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Guyopel I have not failed - I've merely found 10,000 ways that won't work." ---Thomas Edison It's amazing what God lets man get away with when lightning is so cheap. Mark Twain |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Iowa
Posts: 109
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You will need a tool to cut out the old metal. The only tool that really works good for what you need to do is a die grinder with a cut off wheel. They take quite a bit of air, but you can use a small air compressor if you aren't in a big hurry. I never could get flux core wire to work very good,( too much splatter) but maybe you will have better luck. You are going to have to weld metal back in after you get rid of the cancer. I don't see how bondo or epoxy would fill a hole that size and last for any time at all. Perhaps if you don't want to weld it you could use fiberglass cloth and resin then fill the rough with bondo. Try to leave the curved part of the metal if it is possible when you cut the rust out-it will make the finish work easier. It isn't that hard to do, just don't expect perfection if this is your first repair.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Senior Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Kent Lakes, NY
Posts: 1,969
Real Name: Jeff
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Not bad considering what you started with, the real test will be that of time to see if you have paint problems or leaks in the future.
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Jeff '73 GT,5spd,Recaro,EDIS4 2.2 EFI by MegaSquirt, Ali Flywheel w/S10 Clutch, Electric Fan, Roller Rockers, Venolia Pistons, 6 Cyl Intake w/ Custom Injection, 15" Wheels,Lecarra,F&R Sway Bars,Custom Exhaust,1" Sport Spring,Koni Reds,Big Brakes,3 Core Ali Radiator,Hse of Colors Kandy Pagan Gold. 123 WHP @ 6800 RPM ![]() '64 VW Karmann Ghia '08 BMW M3 |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Concord, North Carolina
Posts: 1,118
Real Name: Roy Bell
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Hey Helmut, I've seen that car.. It's not near as bad as you say it is! Go for the restore!
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Roy Bell 1973 Opel GT 74 Manta Rallye Concord, North Carolina Carolina Opel Club OMC |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Opel Key Master
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,301
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Drivers
Alot of times people think because it is a driver you can get away with half way repairs. These areas matter on any car driven or showed, they have to be fixed right, or to the point where rust will not forn anymore. What you did looks fine, and will be covered by the gasket as well. Don't shortcut repairs, because it is a driver, sometimes it has to be better than show to last longer
Keith
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Questions or comments to the Project: Restoration of a GT series 2 -post here http://www.opelgt.com/forums/opel-gt...eries-2-a.html |
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