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06-20-2008
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#1 (permalink) |
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1000 Post Club
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Saginaw, MI
Posts: 1,279
Real Name: Jon
 Provided Answers: 2
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Unanswered: Body Kit Installation
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Current 1970 GT; Under Construction Previous 1969 GT; Street/Strip Project 1969 GT; White with Black Interior, Automatic 1969 GT; Black Parts Car 1969 GT; White Parts Car 1970 GT; Silver with Red Interior 1971 GT; Orange with Black Interior, Turbo 1972 GT; Red Parts Car 1972 GT; Blue with Black Interior 1973 GT; Pearl Blue with Black interior. Full body kit. |
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06-20-2008
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#2 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: st.louis
Posts: 327
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I was thinking of using that sort of stuff for my floor boards. But i have no clue what it is or the strength and life of it. So im leaning towards the cheapest way. And that is arc welding my main frame points for new floorboards and bolt the rest together and pop rivot the sheet metal on. But my california edition front spoiler looks like it is held on my fiberglass or bondo. Defentately some kind of puddy. But my steel site skirts were held on by pop rivots and the had plenty of strength. All the body kits were on when i bought the car.
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I can't wait to finish my 1972 Opel Gt.... So I can buy another one and start all over again! 
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06-20-2008
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#3 (permalink) |
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Non Civilian
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Between Chico and Sac, CA
Posts: 1,596
Provided Answers: 1
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It is suggested you use marine epoxy. A real pain to work with, but will never break or go to crap like Bondo or other types of body fillers. Rivet in with stainless pop rivets then fill in and smooth out with the epoxy.
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Arguing online is the same as racing in the Special Olympics; no matter who wins, you're both still retarded. |
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06-21-2008
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#4 (permalink) |
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Detritus Maximus
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: St. Louis MO
Posts: 1,160
Provided Answers: 1
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What opelwasp said! West System Epoxy (check out US Boat) is the best. It's not cheap, about $100 for a 1.25 gallons w/fiber powder, but I find it easier to work with than that nasty polyester resin.
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"No, it's not fiberglass." "No, the motor is not in the back." "No, your friend in high school did not 'peg' his speedometer." |
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06-21-2008
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#5 (permalink) |
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Opel Key Master
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,301
Provided Answers: 4
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Threads
I don't always condone use of fiberglass resins on floors. I've seen poor patch jobs that the resin doesn't bond well to the floor, usually do to poor prep. Sparky in response to your question, In my thread on the resto, I use SEM brand epoxy adhesive. Go to your local paint supply and they may carry it. Only issue is the applicator gun runs about 70.00 and the adhesive runs about 35.00 a double tube set. Not cheap, but very effective. They will probably have a chart showing all the different adhesives and applications, such as seam sealers, seam foams, metal to metal adhesive, SDM to metal adhesive and such. Also varibles in setting time materials. Another excellent product line is the LORD Fusor line. The only issues that has caused me to stop using it is the self life-usually dry out of the tube.
Keith
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Questions or comments to the Project: Restoration of a GT series 2 -post here http://www.opelgt.com/forums/opel-gt...eries-2-a.html |
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06-21-2008
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#6 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Staten Island, NY
Posts: 133
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Adhesives
Auto body supply stores now have abundant glues for doing body work. A mail order company which has a huge range of body adhesives is Auto Body Toolmart. Seems some body shops are using more glue than they are welding these days. SEM makes some of these and there is an assortment of different adhesives for different bodywork applications.
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NYAsconaGuy |
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