2 nd Blasting/ Body Shop Blues

[opellane]

I been working on my GT for over two years by myself. I got about 80% of it done. I decided to let the Body Shop finish the rest. I just needed the front nose section finished so I gave them the car in bare metal and was promised it would be done 3 to 4 months finished July. After numberous calls and 3 months later. I found out they put my car next to the wash bay and got it wet. So the front end all started to rust, not to mention the other BS work done to it, and the BS from the Body Shop Owner.

These are photo's before it left my house and after
and after 3 months sitting in a Body Shop. pissed me off

[opellane]

Theses are photo's Today taken after it was Soda Blasted the 2nd time.
Just goes to say that you can't Trust the Body Shops as it's just another car to them.

Going to find another shop after I Vari-prime everything from rusting again

[opellane]

Does anybody have a NOS or a very good used Belly Pan they are willing to sell me, as mine needs lots of work.

[First opel 1981]

First off, if you get bad service, tell everyone you know. Don't be afraid to post their name and address online. People need to know who to avoid.
Second, never give a car with bare metal to a body shop. Anything that goes wrong, they can blame on you.
And, 3-4 months to get a car prepped? WOW!

I'm sorry you had a bad experience. Unfortunately, the automotive industry seems to have more than its fair share of "bad experiences".

Finally, you can post a "wanted" belly pan ad here at OpelGT.com. Just look at the left of the main page for the classified section.

[opelnut10]

Originally Posted by opellane Does anybody have a NOS or a very good used Belly Pan they are willing to sell me, as mine needs lots of work.

First off, NOS or good pans are in very short supply because they ALL have some kind of issue (rust, damage from curbs and parking space stops, corrosion from battery, etc.) Opel GT Source at one time anyway, sells/sold a fiberglass replacement that is of pretty good quality, while it will not rust if you hit a curb or something with the bottom side of the nose it can be damaged, but fiberglass is easy to fix also.

[kwilford]

Originally Posted by opellane Does anybody have a NOS or a very good used Belly Pan they are willing to sell me, as mine needs lots of work.

Another choice is to repair what you have. I see that you have already removed the original belly pan. Have a look at what I did to repair mine, as an alternative to a fiberglass version. Even if you can buy a "not so good used belly pan" this might allow you to blend two plus some new steel to make one good one.

HTH

MIG Welding Bodywork 2007 - Opel Photo Gallery

[opellane]

Originally Posted by kwilford Another choice is to repair what you have. I see that you have already removed the original belly pan. Have a look at what I did to repair mine, as an alternative to a fiberglass version. Even if you can buy a "not so good used belly pan" this might allow you to blend two plus some new steel to make one good one. HTH MIG Welding Bodywork 2007 - Opel Photo Gallery

kwilford
The Belly Pan that I took off was dented badly from the accident from the prevous owner. It is torn,dented,rusted,and missing pieces.
Maybe if I'd had another pan to work with would be a good idea.

I took a look at your belly pan photo's and you are good with working the metal. I am a Mechanic and body work is not my special T. That's why it's been taking me over two years. I have everything ready to put back into the car after the paint job. So body shop delays & blasting has set me back.
I can't count on the body shop to repair the belly pan correctly.

[kwilford]

Mike, not to take the blame away from the body shop, but after even a few weeks, let alone three months, media blasted bare steel rusts even when its not next to a car wash. Heck, in humid climates, 3 HOURS will be enough to cause surface rust. I was strictly advised that I re-blast my car JUST before I was ready to apply the primer, after I was finished the metal work. If I didn't live in a very dry climate, I would have applied a primer to at least the parts of the steel that I wasn't planning on immediately repairing and then priming.

What kind of primer are you using? I used a "self-etching two component epoxy primer", after prepping the bare metal with "metal prep", which I believe is a weak phosphoric acid, that converts any slight surface rust before it is encapsulated by the primer. But since then, I have been told that another option would been to have used one of the zinc-rich bare metal primers, and THEN spray the epoxy. I can't go back but I was curious what you were using.

And again out of curiosity, are you sure that they used soda to blast it this last time? Soda is terrific for removing paint, but in my experience, won't touch rust. Whatever they used, it seems to have done a good job of getting the rust off. Get that metal primed!

[opellane]

I think the Blaster used very fine glass (not glass beads) to re-suface and rid the surface rust. He did an awesome job. Would of took me a long time if I did it with my small blaster. He's system uses a industrial Moblie Compressor on a trailer, a inline supply air cooler w/fan and a water seperator. (and he lives local to me) That's the way to blast. Never run out of air supply.

I am using Dupont Vari-prime a self-etching primer it works very well. It held up in the rear after the body shop got it wet. It really self-etching Now the whole car is one color Vari-prime yellow. Much Happier Now.
Thanks for all your input, just need to get it to the right Body Shop.

The belly pan needs blasting work, and metal work so I am going to try and repair it the best that I know how. Chop/ piece & Mig Welding

[Phoenix]

Opel GT online parts catalog Teilekatalog

Parsget has a metal as well as the fiberglass belly pan. It's what I intend to get for the GT shell in the garage since it's the only place that has rust on the whole car. Though it is a tad expensive.

[kwilford]

Originally Posted by opellane I think the Blaster used very fine glass (not glass beads) to re-surface and rid the surface rust.

Thats what I thought, as I believe soda by itself is too gentle to blast the rust off. Is it possible he used a very fine "aluminum oxide" (almost sounds like glass) media? My blaster (who also does mobile work, and specializes in soda blasting of buildings and such NaTech Industries) used very fine abrasive for the final cleanup blast. But for the reference of those who do this work later, he did manage to do some damage to the metal in that final blast. The panels aren't so much "warped" as a few of them became very slightly dented in by the force of the blasting, even though he was very careful. I had to do some "spoon and hammer" work to get the panels back to their proper position, and now I will have to do some additional filler to ensure that they are completely smooth.

Originally Posted by opellane I am using Dupont Vari-prime a self-etching primer it works very well. It held up in the rear after the body shop got it wet. It really self-etching

I looked that primer up, and it seems like a good product. I trust that you are going to TOTALLY prime ALL the bare metal surfaces, as the photos seem to indicate that there was still some un-primed parts. Whatever is left bare WILL rust. And FYI, the spec sheet on that primer states "Note: Variprime® 615S/625S should be primed or sealed within 16 hours for best performance." and "Tips for Success: For optimum holdout and performance, VariPrime® 615S™/625S™ must always be primed or sealed prior to topcoat application." I would guess that you will be OK for a while, but based on that, that primer (like virtually EVERY primer except epoxy) will NOT prevent water absorption and subsequent rusting. Many folks think that a "primered" surface will not rust, but that is not true if left exposed to the elements.

Originally Posted by opellane The belly pan needs blasting work, and metal work so I am going to try and repair it the best that I know how. Chop/ piece & Mig Welding

Try to find another (even rusted) belly pan that you can use as the base for a repaired panel and take your time in repairing it. And ask questions as many folks here are more than willing to help out. Heck, maybe somebody who can physically help lives nearby.

HTH

[opellane]

Originally Posted by kwilford Thats what I thought, as I believe soda by itself is too gentle to blast the rust off. Is it possible he used a very fine "aluminum oxide" (almost sounds like glass) media? My blaster (who also does mobile work, and specializes in soda blasting of buildings and such NaTech Industries) used very fine abrasive for the final cleanup blast. But for the reference of those who do this work later, he did manage to do some damage to the metal in that final blast. The panels aren't so much "warped" as a few of them became very slightly dented in by the force of the blasting, even though he was very careful. I had to do some "spoon and hammer" work to get the panels back to their proper position, and now I will have to do some additional filler to ensure that they are completely smooth. I looked that primer up, and it seems like a good product. I trust that you are going to TOTALLY prime ALL the bare metal surfaces, as the photos seem to indicate that there was still some un-primed parts. Whatever is left bare WILL rust. And FYI, the spec sheet on that primer states "Note: Variprime® 615S/625S should be primed or sealed within 16 hours for best performance." and "Tips for Success: For optimum holdout and performance, VariPrime® 615S™/625S™ must always be primed or sealed prior to topcoat application." I would guess that you will be OK for a while, but based on that, that primer (like virtually EVERY primer except epoxy) will NOT prevent water absorption and subsequent rusting. Many folks think that a "primered" surface will not rust, but that is not true if left exposed to the elements. Try to find another (even rusted) belly pan that you can use as the base for a repaired panel and take your time in repairing it. And ask questions as many folks here are more than willing to help out. Heck, maybe somebody who can physically help lives nearby. HTH

Keith
If you look in my photo gallery you will see that the bottom and inside and engine compartment have been blasted Vari-primed and Dupont Primer filler. So only bare metal was on the front nose and fenders. I was told that a good Body Shop would take it in bare metal (was very clean) and start welding in the missing panels in the right light bucket, and start the prep. and filler work. Being they would have to take the paint off first to repair. I didn't know it was going to sit in a Body Shops Wash Bay for 3 months. I will never do that again, always prime bare metal Body Shops never keep there word
I think I have some dents too from the blaster, I am not good with the Body filler and I used 2 gallons of Evercoat Filler as I could not get it right. Putting it on and sanding most of it off. and so on. I am no Body Man. But I can Mig Weld.
So that's why I raised my hands to the Body Shop. I just want it done. I have been playing around with filler over 2 years and only got 3/4 of the car done. I removed all the rust and now just needs Mud (filler) work.

I think I found a decent shop only 20 min from my house, so I can keep checking up on ther work

[opellane]

Originally Posted by Phoenix Opel GT online parts catalog Teilekatalog Parsget has a metal as well as the fiberglass belly pan. It's what I intend to get for the GT shell in the garage since it's the only place that has rust on the whole car. Though it is a tad expensive.

Tony, I was looking at Suslebeck too opelgtparts.com and another a Germany e-bayer named atzgbr who sells NOS Opel GT parts on German E-Bay. The New Steel Belly pan costs $750.00 euro's and another $125.00 euro's to ship to USA. That's allot of US Dollars. But I am still thinking Maybe I'll fix what I have

[newman27]

Originally Posted by opellane Tony, I was looking at Suslebeck too opelgtparts.com and another a Germany e-bayer named atzgbr who sells NOS Opel GT parts on German E-Bay. The New Steel Belly pan costs $750.00 euro's and another $125.00 euro's to ship to USA. That's allot of US Dollars. But I am still thinking Maybe I'll fix what I have

I have the OGTS fiberglass belly pan on my GT and it looks great. You might want to consider it - one less thing to rust!

[RallyBob]

Mike, I have an NOS GT bellypan (not for sale, sorry!), so if you get into a bind and need an original part to measure the correct bends/radii from, let me know and you could come up to my shop.

[baz]

word of warning

no primer is waterproof as far as i know

always coat with something waterproof even rattle cans if it is going to stand for more than a few days

i always use a 3 or 4 coat system

1:etch prime

2:high build filler coat

( rub down with 800 - 1000 grit wet and dry paper )

3:colour coat ( with solid colour = end of job )

4:clear coat if metallic finish

if i cant do finish colour coats right away i will give a coat of any solid colour to water proof , if nothing else this gives a very good guide coat when rubbing down filler coat to get super smooth finish ready for colour coats

[opellane]

Haven't updated this thread in long time.

So far my Opel GT took another road trip to a Great Restoration Shop, (That doesn't do collsion work at all) Mainly works on British Cars. Found his shop being a British car club member ( Brits of the Hudson Sports Car Club)
It sat there for just alittle bit, then he got right to work, Repaired the fender, fitted the light bucket splash panels, Repaired the Belly Pan and installed, Installed the Light Buckets/Hood
and the fitted the doors. Everything is getting fitted and adjusted before paint. They are doing "All" the right things, So I'm Happy about that.
It won't be Long Now! I'll have all winter to get ready for Spring and maybe Carlisle, will see.

[opellane]

This is the Before Pictures, from July of 2004.
It has Been a Long Road.