Filler for Small Holes (was "Off the Bike and in the Opel")

[koss007joe]

So after a Summer of sitting , I started bring the Manta back to life .. So i Put on a new starter, coil, cap and rotor, points and condenser, new wires and plugs.. now im doing the vacuum lines and heater hoses .. But i do have a question what works best for small rust holes (like some kinda filler)?
Whoo i cant wait , I missed this little car, but i Ride all summer cause its cheaper and its the summer. The Opel is more of my winter champ , perfect little car handles great in the snow never got suck yet came close .. well om out to finish this before the night falls .

[basic instinct]

bondo.

[Sparky73]

Never just use bondo when there are holes present. You will either have to look into using fiberglass or welding in a patch panel. Never fill holes with bondo.

[manyopels]

But for that "little issue" of poisonous fumes, lead body filler would be the time-honored method of filling small rust-through holes, as opposed to bondo, welding, brazing, etc.

Check out this link to Eastwood's new development:

YouTube - Lead-Free Body Solder

YouTube - Lead-Free Body Solder

You may have to copy and paste the URL.

Anyone have experience with this?

- Brian

[blancojp]

Originally Posted by manyopels But for that "little issue" of poisonous fumes, lead body filler would be the time-honored method of filling small rust-through holes, as opposed to bondo, welding, brazing, etc. Check out this link to Eastwood's new development: YouTube - Lead-Free Body Solder You may have to copy and paste the URL. Anyone have experience with this? - Brian

We use the lead technique just about every day to fill holes and sometimes pitted metal repair. Does not look pretty when you apply but when you form and blend, you can't tell it is there.

There is another way that we use which is almost like bondo. Lab Metal is a product that spreads like bondo, but when it dries it turns to metal. There is no mixing and you spread right out of the can. It was originally designed to fix rust on marine heavy equipment applications but works very well in the automotive field. We use it as not only as filler but also as primer in a liquid state. Since we started working with Lab Metal a few years ago, we no longer use Bondo in any of our work. But if you nuy a can, also buy a can of the reducer since the life of an opened can is 30 minutes without it.

You migh tlook into this as well.

[koss007joe]

so no bondo.. so on the small holes i can fiberglass and the one or two larger ones just weld in some sheet metal .. I got the old girl back to life after putting all the new parts on and turning the motor over to get some oil flow, she fired right up now i guess i have some body work to do .. maybe ill post some pics if i remember. well thanks for the advice , i just didnt know what was best way to handle my problem

[blancojp]

Originally Posted by koss007joe so no bondo.. so on the small holes i can fiberglass and the one or two larger ones just weld in some sheet metal .. I got the old girl back to life after putting all the new parts on and turning the motor over to get some oil flow, she fired right up now i guess i have some body work to do .. maybe ill post some pics if i remember. well thanks for the advice , i just didnt know what was best way to handle my problem

I would not use fiberglass, use body solder instead for a reliable repair.
I believe you asked what we do for tinting primers and so on. You can buy tintable primer and use a color formula to create the color of your choice. you can then use one coat of clear to see if the color or panels are to your liking. It also protects your work if you decide to paint the car later in the game.