Lower Ball-joint removal

[69-GT]

I searched a quite of bit and still could not find how to remove the lower ball joints. I understand that the are pressed it, but what is the easiest way to remove them. Thanks a lot. Phil

[GTJIM]

Jack up the car, remove the front wheel and place a length of 2" pipe under the ball joint - the hole inside the pipe must be bigger than the bottom of the ball joint! Some jack stands work OK with the adjustable bit removed.
Lower the car on to the pipe so the ball joint is in the hole - block the other wheels and make sure the car is stable.
Now disconnect the lower ball joint using a pickle fork - keep the weight of the car on the lower A-arm or the spring will "escape" ... and kill you or a bystander!!
Drive the ball joint out - jack the car up with the jack as close as possible to the ball joint hole under the lower A-arm - extreme caution!
Now get the new ball joint in as far as you can and set the car down on to a hard wood block - or steel bar -under the ball joint and pound the A-arm down till the ball joint is seated. Reconnect the spindle ... etc.
It is far easier to do in a shop press with the A-arm out ... but that is a whole 'nother ball game - do a SEARCH for Front End Rebuild.

All liability denied - you may or may not take this advice for what it is worth. You paid nothing for it!

[maglinjosvinn]

heh... i got my front end out of the car, and i'm having more trouble getting the shocks out than anything, as the damn bolt is frozen to the bushing. i might need a new lower arm on the passenger side if i beat on it with a hammer anymore. lol.

[opelwasp]

i have been told after you remove the lower ball joint it is easier to just grind out the original hole and fit it with some sort of Chrystler one. Dennis at OGTS told me about it.

[namba209]

Originally Posted by maglinjosvinn i'm having more trouble getting the shocks out than anything, as the damn bolt is frozen to the bushing.

If you have a Dremel, you can use a "Roto-Zip" type drill bit and cut the rubber bushings out. Then drive out the bolt to remove the shock. You'll get new rubber bushings when you get new shocks. HTH.

[blancojp]

come on guys, 2" pipe huh!
Go to the nearest rental supply place and rent a 3" hydraulic pancake jack with a centering hole dimple. After you get the assembly appart and the lower arm locked, use two chains to hold the jack in place and just push the sucker out. All you need is to push it out 0.300 and you own it. To install it just do the opposite and you'll own the new one as well.

Using this method the dangers are minimal and you get to maintain your "cojones" intact.

[oldopelguy]

Or, you could go to an Autozone and rent a ball joint press, the tool actually designed for removing the ball joints:
http://www.autozone.com/in_our_store...oint_press.htm

As to the replacing the ball joint thing, easiest is to remove the ball joint, cut/grind out the socket, and weld in a new socket for a threaded Chrysler ball joint. The sockets, or sleeves, are available at all sorts of stock car supply places for @$5, the Chrysler ball joint is @$15, and when you weld it in you can adjust the position of the socket with respect to the arm itself to get yourself almost 1" of either lift or drop in the front when you weld it back in. Sure, you better be good with the welder, but if you are it's a good option. I'm pretty sure someone has done that how-to and you should be able to find it with a search.

[jordan]

Originally Posted by oldopelguy Or, you could go to an Autozone and rent a ball joint press, the tool actually designed for removing the ball joints: http://www.autozone.com/in_our_store...oint_press.htm As to the replacing the ball joint thing, easiest is to remove the ball joint, cut/grind out the socket, and weld in a new socket for a threaded Chrysler ball joint. The sockets, or sleeves, are available at all sorts of stock car supply places for @$5, the Chrysler ball joint is @$15, and when you weld it in you can adjust the position of the socket with respect to the arm itself to get yourself almost 1" of either lift or drop in the front when you weld it back in. Sure, you better be good with the welder, but if you are it's a good option. I'm pretty sure someone has done that how-to and you should be able to find it with a search.

I would love to see a "how to" on this, any one do it recently with some pictures?

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by jordan I would love to see a "how to" on this, any one do it recently with some pictures?

I wrote about this many times in the past. There are some photos of a modified Ascona A-arm with the Chrysler screw-in balljoint in the 'Turd gets a new suspension' thread. Same concept for a GT. Chrysler ball joint and sleeve

Height and angularity are critical...if you can't lay a good weld (not directed at you Jordan!), or match things from side-to-side, then the best bet is to leave it to a professional. I don't consider this a modification appropriate for a novice. That, and unless you have a real understanding of what a longer balljoint can accomplish in terms of suspension geometry, probably better to just replace the stock balljoint with an original.

Bob