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Old 12-31-2006   #1 (permalink)
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Unanswered: Bushing Questions

Hello all and Happy New Year!

I'm installing new poly bushings from Opel GT Source in the front end of my Manta. I'd like to install grease fittings in the control arms so that I can grease the bushings without having to disassemble everything in the future. I understand that with the poly bushings, the pivot point becomes the center sleeve passing through the bushings. In the past, I've had a couple of discussions with people regarding this and it was suggested that one can drill a grease hole through the control arm bushing sleeve, through the bushings, down to the center sleeve and then cut a small spiral in the bushing so that grease can move around between the central sleeve and the bushing. Can someone give details on this and are there any pictures that show this? I've used the search and found nothing specific. Seems this could be easily done with a dremel. Anyone ever done this or something similar?

Todd
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Old 12-31-2006   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by neuropel View Post
Anyone ever done this or something similar?

Todd
Yes, I've done it from the beginning. My old 1973 Ascona was the guinea-pig for the prototype set of OGTS urethane bushings. Gil knew I drove the car hard, raced it, and had much firmer springs, shocks, and swaybars than stock, so I was a good candidate for testing.

That said, I found that the first set of bushings wore rather quickly, which was a combination of the stiff springs, my driving style, and the urethane compound being used. So the next bushings used a different compound of urethane, and for longevity I began fitting grease zerks to all the bushings. This helped by locking the bushing within the outer sleeve, and feeding the teflon grease to the inner sleeve and the interior surfaces of the bushings.

A few things worth mentioning. Make SURE the inner sleeve protrudes slightly past the bushing itself or it will bind and make a horrific squeaking. Adjust this by sanding the bushing if needed. Also, at the upper a-arms the outer washers need to be reversed, so that the concave side faces out. Otherwise, again there will be binding present. And also of importance, do not overtighten the bolts holding the arms to the crossmember! Torque to factory specs only!

Oh, and while I have no pics of this, nor any way to take pics at the moment, it is really self explanitory. A small groove is cut on a bias within the bushing ID, starting from the grease zerk hole and tapering towards each end of the bushings. The diagonal bias is to prevent a weak-spot or a point for a tear to propogate from. No need to grind the slot *right to the edge*, just enough to feed the entire sleeve is fine. I use a die grinder fitted with a tapered 'tree' type carbide burr, takes about 10 seconds per bushing to make the slots.

Bob

Last edited by RallyBob; 12-31-2006 at 03:35 PM. Reason: added info
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Old 01-01-2007   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the details Bob. Sounds like I was mostly on the right track. I now have all my suspension pieces coated in magnet paint and will be drilling and tapping for the zerk fittings next.

Just for the record, I'd assume the same idea is suggested for GT bushings as well?

Thanks again!
Todd
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Old 01-01-2007   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RallyBob View Post
.... and for longevity I began fitting grease zerks to all the bushings....
Bob
Are those a kind of nipples that allow you to pump in grease or something simular??
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Old 01-01-2007   #5 (permalink)
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yes erick they are nipples
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Old 01-01-2007   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 2 Fast 4 U View Post
Are those a kind of nipples that allow you to pump in grease or something simular??
Yes, zerks are an inlet for pumping grease into things, they're a little ball shaped knob with a small valve in it and a threaded area to install into something in need of grease.
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Old 01-01-2007   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jordan View Post
Yes, zerks are an inlet for pumping grease into things, they're a little ball shaped knob with a small valve in it and a threaded area to install into something in need of grease.
Not to old to learn something!

Originally Posted by baz View Post
yes erick they are nipples
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Old 01-01-2007   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by neuropel View Post
Just for the record, I'd assume the same idea is suggested for GT bushings as well?
Yes, IMO the GT requires this more than the Manta, especially on the lower a-arms. The leaf spring wreaks havoc on the bushings otherwise. I place the lower zerks here on a GT or Kadett front end.

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Old 01-01-2007   #9 (permalink)
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Bob you drilled a hole through the steel and bushing, in what did you tap the thread for the grease nipple?
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Old 01-01-2007   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 2 Fast 4 U View Post
Bob you drilled a hole through the steel and bushing, in what did you tap the thread for the grease nipple?
The "A" arm sleeve gets drilled with what ever suggested bit is needed to tap the grease zerk and then the hole of that size is continued through the bushing, stopping at the inner sleeve. Another advantage of the grease zerk slightly protruding into the bushing is that it will also "pin" it in place.
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Old 01-01-2007   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jordan View Post
Another advantage of the grease zerk slightly protruding into the bushing is that it will also "pin" it in place.
That I know, only didn't know were to tap the thread in. but thanks any way!!
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Old 01-21-2007   #12 (permalink)
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Wrong Bushings?

Finally had some time this weekend to do some additional work with my manta suspension and ran into a problem. In the attached picture I have a lower control arm bushing I received from OGTS. It was part of the complete Manta front end bushing kit. Problem is that it appears to be the wrong bushing. It's far too large to fit the sleeve in the control arm, and it has a different profile than that shown in the instructions (note the paper under the bushing is the instruction sheet from OGTS). Anyone venture a guess as to what I received? Hopefully Gil has some of the correct bushings in stock.
Also, with the upper bushings, I'm assuming the flanges go to the outside in both cases? I'm finding the instructions a bit vague, although for the most part they SEEMINGLY only fit one way. Also, why the odd "steps" in diameter of the bushings? No such steps are in the sleeves, nor in the old rubber bushings. My only guess is that it's easier to machine steps in them than to taper?

Todd
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC01086.JPG (125.9 KB, 53 views)
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Old 01-22-2007   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by neuropel View Post
In the attached picture I have a lower control arm bushing I received from OGTS. It was part of the complete Manta front end bushing kit.
Todd
Todd, that's not the correct Manta bushing for sure. Probably a mixup from the manufacturer, not OGTS. It doesn't even look like an Opel part!

The steps are indeed necessary, they only fit one way into the a-arms.

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Old 01-22-2007   #14 (permalink)
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Manta B?

Well, just got off the phone with Dennis and it appears I may have been sent a Manta B bushing instead...anyone recognize it?
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