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Old 04-04-2009   #1 (permalink)
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Answered: Front wheel bearing removal

Is there a trick to removing the inner wheel bearings? I can't seem to figure it out. Also when turning the rotors I assume you need to separate them from the hub?
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Most Helpful Answer - Posted by blancojp
Originally Posted by kent View Post
Is there a trick to removing the inner wheel bearings? I can't seem to figure it out. Also when turning the rotors I assume you need to separate them from the hub?
The best bet is to use a small wood rod and insert it through the front opening until it lands on the bearing. Tap the rod and the inner bearing comes right out. This method does not damage the seal so it can be re-used. If you are replacing the wheel bearings, the outer bearing is BCA part # A1 and the inner is BCA part # A4.

You do not however need to remove the races from the hub to have the rotor turned.
Old 04-04-2009   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kent View Post
Is there a trick to removing the inner wheel bearings? I can't seem to figure it out. Also when turning the rotors I assume you need to separate them from the hub?
You need to remove the grease seal from the inside of the rotor, then the bearing will come right out. Use a seal removal tool or pry it out with a screwdriver or you can drive the seal out by gently tapping on the inside of the bearing with a drift pin or a piece of wood.

Yes, you do need to remove the bearing to turn the rotor.

HTH
Bob

Last edited by SpringGT; 04-04-2009 at 03:54 PM.
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Old 04-04-2009   #3 (permalink)
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Is it possible to reuse the rubber seal? or will it be ruined by removing it? What I meant on the rotor is do you separate the assembly (removing the 4star bolts on the inside) or do you take the whole thing minus the bearings? Thanks
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Old 04-04-2009   #4 (permalink)
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EZ method of removing inner seal, is re-installing the castle nut on the threads of the spindle, then simply pulling the hub/rotor assembly over it. The outer bearing will come right out, but if you are replacing it you should remove the bearing race from the hub on a press, then press in the new race.
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Old 04-04-2009   #5 (permalink)
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You can probably salvage the seal by tapping on the bearing from the inside, but prying it out from the backside will likely ruin it. However, seals are cheap and reusing an old dry one may allow grease onto your new brake job.

Leave the rotors attached to the hubs after bearing/seal removal and take the whole assembly to have the turning done.
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Old 04-04-2009   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kent View Post
Is there a trick to removing the inner wheel bearings? I can't seem to figure it out. Also when turning the rotors I assume you need to separate them from the hub?
The best bet is to use a small wood rod and insert it through the front opening until it lands on the bearing. Tap the rod and the inner bearing comes right out. This method does not damage the seal so it can be re-used. If you are replacing the wheel bearings, the outer bearing is BCA part # A1 and the inner is BCA part # A4.

You do not however need to remove the races from the hub to have the rotor turned.
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Old 04-04-2009   #7 (permalink)
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My two cents
Unless the grease seals are very rare replace the suckers.
Only because they do wear out over time. So I'm like Anonymous D put the castle nut on ..after removing the outer bgr.first and slam the rotor off the spindle with a slight angle movement. That will remove the inner bgr and seal all in one motion.
Then REMOVE all the old grease from both the the housing and bgrs. Inspect the races for any discoloration and/or pitting. With the bgrs nice and clean rotate the brg on the race any funky ie not "smooth" replace!!
Your machine shop will love you for having the housing nice and clean because thats how they center the rotors on the lathe.
After you get the rotors back WASH them with lots of soap and water to remove any left over metal particles. Now comes old school v new school..
repacking the bgrs and housing. Old school states load the housing full of grease. New school states just pack the bgrs and races with grease. This is using high quality high temp disc brake grease in both examples.
Dont forget the properly preload the bgrs. and always use a new carter pin.
Use the above info "AT YOUR OWN RISK"
If in any doubt..have a ASE certified mechanic check your braking system.

Last edited by wrench459; 04-04-2009 at 10:22 PM. Reason: disclaimer
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Old 04-04-2009   #8 (permalink)
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I usually just replace the rotors...it's only a few dollars more than getting the old ones turned. I think your original question was whether or not the rotor needs to be seperated from the hub. Not for turning the rotors. If you replace the rotors the easiest way I have found to hold the hub steady so you can remove the hub to rotor bolts, is to bolt the hub up to a tire/rim that's off the car. The tire/rim holds the hub steady so you can kneel on the tire and easily break loose and remove the bolts without the hub wanting to turn.
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Old 04-05-2009   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks all, worked like a charm. I considered replacing the rotors but ogts wants 49 ea and I can get them both turned for 25.
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