Front Spring.. "Lift" question

[Dallas]

I have in hand a 2" lowering spring from OPGTS. I have read many posts about spring compressors etc. My question is this: I want to do this job from a car lift in my shop. I have read many ways to remove the spring without a compressor when working from the ground. How will I do this on a lift. By the way my lift, lifts from the body not the tires. The tires will be hanging down.

Thanks,Dallas

[RallyBob]

Using a lift makes the job even easier as long as you have a screw jack. I swapped a prototype front spring on Gil Wesson's GT in about 25-30 minutes using his lift and a screw jack. Real simple job this way....

[jeff denton]

But you didn't specify what makes the lift go up and down. My experience with lifts is that you can't make it go up or down an exact desired amount, in other words, if you need a half inch up you get half a foot...
If this is the case with your lift, be careful! There's nothing worse than blood all over the shop floor...

[bosco]

It took me longer to line-up and get the second spring-eye bolt in than it did for Bob to change out the whole assembly. I need some more practice..not.

[namba209]

Dallas, using a lift AND a screw jack, the process to remove the spring is the same as it is sitting on the ground. The difference being the screwjack takes the place of the bottle jack when sitting on the ground. Use the screwjack under the spring eye to relieve the tension on the bolt and remove the bolt and the spring wil come out. Don't forget to remove the spring perches also, they hold the spring in place under the LCA, and remember which holes are used on the perches. There are two holes on each side and affect the height of the front end. HTH.

[Dallas]

I broke down and got a welder to make a spring compressor. I bought a clamp to hold to the spring. It works great. I am noe faced with the ole' stuck problem!!! After an hour or so of trying everything I can. I decided to take a few minutes off. I read a couple of post on the issue. i will try them after lunch.

Here I go again.

By the way The total cost to build my ouwn compressor was about $65.00

[BQS4]

Dallas;
Save that compressor, as some of us in the area might need it. Thom Tate (voodoou) is going to be rebuilding his front end soon.
Gene

[Crusher]

Once you get both sides of the stock spring lowered, you'll find that the lower a-arms are still in the way. You'll have to loosen the lower a-arm if you can get the bolts undone .... good luck !

[Dallas]

Well, I started early this morning. I thought that with the spring compressor and the lift in my shop that this would be an easy project. Boy was I ever wrong! Honestly, it should have taken less than an hour.... BUT the a-arm bolts were rusted and would not come out. I have read about this in other post. One side came right out and the other side didn't. I had to remove the entire a-arm and drill the screws out. I tried everything else first. It turned into quite a job. Other than the bolts, it wasn't too bad.

As an end result, the car looks great and drives totally different. I think it is a little too low with the size tires I have. I would feel better if I had another 1/2 inch or so. Any ideas?? Or do I need to change to the 1" drop spring?

I took some pictures of the compressor and some before and after pictures. They are on my computer at my office. I will post them in the morning.

[markandson]

I am in the process of rebuilding my entire front end and installing a 1" lowering spring purchased from OGTS. Does anyone have detail on the "perches" as I did not take note of their exact positioning when I disassembled. They appear to want to go back only one way because of the shape. The perch is cut to match the shape of the crossmember, or at least it appears that way. I am spraying the cross member tonight after sandblasing the whole thing, which was a nightmare, but it's done, so tomorrow is re-assembly day.

[Dallas]

You are correct. They will fit like a puzzle. Let the rubber part follow the flow of the spring.
One tip that I figured out is to use a pipe in the middle of the new spring to compress it. The factory spring had a "hook" in the middle to grab and compress with, but the new spring does not. I was on a lift and used about a 6 foot pipe. Just hold it in place in the middle of the spring and lower the car down to it until it compresses enough to get the bolts in. If you are working on the ground just use a short pipe in the same way and a floor jack.
Good luck!

Dallas

[jeff denton]

Sounds like your bolt removal went just like mine did...fun like that will convert a person to religiously use anti-sieze on any bolt he might ever want to remove again!
So, now that you've done it, it really is simple, isn't it? My friend and I did it three times one day playing with different length 2nd and 3rd leafs to see what kind of crossweight changes we could make. Discovered that the the front of a GT truly is a very tune-able suspension, when from the start we couldn't see how it could even possibly work...

[bosco]

Since I bought my GT a couple years ago I have been using SiliKroil ( http://www.kanolabs.com ) on most all the bolts on any disassembly. On bolts such as those in the exhaust flange and spring perches ,etc.. I have sprayed it on two or three times during the two weeks prior to disassembly. I have never had to struggle removing any bolt. The stuff really seems to work.

[namba209]

Jeff, et.al., I used the NEO grease, same stuff that comes in the poly bushings kit OGTS sells, on all the bolt shanks and used anti-sieze on the threaded areas. The NEO grease container claims it will not wash off under any conditions, it is recommended for use on boat trailer wheel bearings. I'll find out how it works in that application, I used it on my GT's wheel bearings. A good test, or it may be an expensive failure, time will tell. I also plan to use it on the trailer for the GT too when it goes behind the motorhome to dog shows and other outings. All this because I don't want another "Bolt From Hell", once was way too much.

[nobody]

This brings back memories. I was going to do all the bushings and springs before moving the car. Back was easy and the drivers front was easy but the passenger side I beat heated pryed on until I gave up. Lower A arm bolt would not budge. I finally put it back together to move it and on the next attempt it came right out. yes large amounts of penetating oil were used but until it saw some road movement it wasn't budging.

[soybean]

Originally Posted by markandson I am in the process of rebuilding my entire front end and installing a 1" lowering spring purchased from OGTS. Does anyone have detail on the "perches" as I did not take note of their exact positioning when I disassembled. They appear to want to go back only one way because of the shape. The perch is cut to match the shape of the crossmember, or at least it appears that way.

markandson, check out this thread (4 pages worth) and in it "perches" are discussed in detal along with some other links. http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showthr...ing+compressor
HTH, Jarrell

[Dallas]

Here are a couple pics of my project. I think it is a little too low. It drives great and looks good, but I think I can move the spring end bolts to the upper holes. That should make it set perfect. I won't be nervous about tire scrubbing. I will wait a while before doing it, I am tired from yesterdays "bolt" ordeal.

[Dallas]

Here are a couple before and after pictures. I still think I will feel better with about a 1/2 inch adjustment up.

[markandson]

Soybean, I read the whole old thread that you referred me to and there is a picture showing the perch as it was installed originally. It does not follow the contour that I would have expected, it is backwards. Instead of the perch contour matching the cross member it is installed 180 degrees out. Does anyone have a good picture or sketch of a perch properly installed? I don't think you can use either hole, the perch only seems to fit correctly using one of the holes. Is the rubber part of the perch thicker on one side than on the other, so that it matches the contour of the spring? Seems like an awful lot of questions for something that should be so simple. :o

[rlcleeds]

thats lookin good (not too low ) what size are your rims

[Crusher]

The car is sitting just right...I just installed the 2" spring but haven't been able to drive on it .. I'm waiting until I get my adjustable panarod finished.

My wifes 73 GT is looking alot like yours, her's is going to be
"seafoam green"...But I prefer YELLOW

[greensmurf20]

i dont know how to say it, that car is just plain out bad-ass. i usually dont like big wheels, but i love those, probably cuz they're "period correct" so they fit with the rest of the car extremely well. i love the ride dallas, kudos.

[Dallas]

markandson, the perch will follow the flow of the spring. You can use either hole. If you move the perches out wide the car rides lower, if you move them in the car will ride higher.

rlcleeds, I have 17" rear and 16" front.

[jeff denton]

I think it looks awesome. This car has convinced me that yellow is the best color for a GT. And it has me tempted to do something with a perfectly good body shell I lovingly call Parts GT.

[markandson]

I am installing (trying) a 1" lowering spring at the moment. What I don't understand is why I don't have to compress the spring at all. The whole suspension including the cross member is out of the car and I have the cross member supported on two temporary steel mounts that sit on the floor and hang the cross member the same as though it was installed in the car. I have been able to put the entire thing together by hand, it seems that the only pressure will come when I tighten the bolts that hold the lower control arms to the cross member, and pinch the rubber perches. Seems as though this would be an easier way to take the pressure off the spring rather than needing a spring compressor, just loosen the mounting bolts. Does this whole thing make sense, or am I doing something wrong.
Jeff