Front end rebuild... the beginning to the final chapter

[namba209]

Thom, welcome to the "Bolt From Hell" club. Almost everyone that has done front suspension work has come across at least one. Aren't you lucky, you have two.

Stephen is absolutely right-on about turning all those bolts, minimum once a year. And also about the anit-sieze compound and grease. The best, IMHO, is the same grease that comes with the poly bushings from OGTS. It is designed for use on boat trailer wheel bearings. If you've used it before, you'll know it is a bear to get off your hands, but apply liberally along the length of the bolts except for the threaded area, that's where the anti-sieze goes. Lotsa luck to you in getting the bolts out. On my UCA bolt it took heat, 20 ton hydraulic press, a 5 lb sledge hammer and 3 days, along with a lot of penetrating fluid. Maybe a carbide or titanium tipped drill bit would help in your case.

[benncojr]

Thom,
Prior to take the air cutting tool to it (I like that idea tho). How about trying get the one you have in basement a part. That one you will have to use the spring compressor on but that might be the way to go.

[Thom71GT]

Good thought, but one problem. The crossmember on that one is damaged and I sure as heck wouldnt want to drive around on it. I am going to have to take it apart though becasue Im going to use parts from that one to rebuild mine. i.e. the tie rods are in MUCH better shape, the ball joints, etc...


I took the lower A-Arm off the drivers side and now I have ALL of the pressure out of the spring, so when I take my cutter to it tonight there won't be any danger of TWAAAANNNNNGGGG. OUCH!!

[Thom71GT]

Well, I learned today why those lovely BFH (Bolts from Hell) are so evil when trying to remove the front spring. Ever notice that it's usually the passenger side? Thats because when you drain the radiator and hang the hose down you let it drip right down on top of those bolts. You're supposed to put the hose through the hole in the front and let it drain down to the bottom of the belly pan, but almost no one does. I will from now on, I can tell you that. :o

[Thom71GT]

Well, the fun thing is I have a whole suspension in my basement off of another Gt that I bought. Im soaking those puppies right now. I will pretty much destroy that bracket when I cut it off and will need to replace it AND the lower control arm. I just HOPE and PRAY that I can get this other one off without having to destory it.

Anyone ot there have a spare lower control arm for the pass side just sitting around in case I cant get this one off either?

Perhaps Ill just grind the heads of the bolts off and try the candle wax thingy.

[Thom71GT]

Well, go figure. Ive soaked the front end bolts on the suspension I have in the basement now for a few days. I went down there tonight, put the spring compressor on it and BAM out they went!!! No problemo. Now I can take the lower control arm off and then destroy the one on my car and be good to go. Hee haw!!

[GTJIM]

Have you tried to remove the UPPER A-arms yet ??

[Thom71GT]

Not yet. Right now Im concentrating on the passengers side. Ive gotten out the "bolts from hell" and they were no problem. I've taken out one bolt (the front) for the inside lower control arm and am working on the outside bolt now. Its soaking. Its kind of difficult with the front end off of the car because one side of the bolt that I need to hold with a wrench is facing down to the ground and I have that huge spring compressor on there. So, it's not real easy to flip this thing around.

One thing... I did try for a second to remove the bolts on the other side, the side you need, and I think they are going to give me a problem. I'll work on it some more tonight and keep you up to date. Ill also post a pic of it with the compressor on it, so you can get a good idea of what Im dealing with.

[Thom71GT]

Ok, this is my spare front end in the basement with the spring compressor on it. I have ALL (YAY!!!) of the bolts out of the side I need and will now try to get them out of the other side. But,.... they seem less willing (BOO!!!!!)

[krewzer]

Are GT ball joints the same as Kadet 1.1 joints? AutopartsGiant has several part numbers for Moog, TRW, and AC Delco. I searched 1970 Opel GT and got 2 part #'s for lower and 2 for upper. However, their description for the application didn't match my search criteria.

Any experience with parts other than OGTS offers? I need them fast, and if my local parts house can get them in one day, that would be preferable to half a week.

[nobody]

try this.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...ype=66&ptset=A

or this.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...ype=85&ptset=A

[Thom71GT]

DIE Bolts!!!!!

[GTJIM]

All the upper ball joints are the same Opel part number - 310807

However there are some differences with the lower ones:

69-73 GT - 352814

66-67 Kadett to Chasis No. 694058 - 352805 then 352806

1967 1/2 Kadett - 352809

68-70 Kadett - 352814 (same as GT)

The earlier Kadett lower ones have smaller tapers but I believe that the ball joints will fit in the lower A-arm and the spindle can be reamed out for the larger taper, later style. Anyone confirm that?

[Thom71GT]

Gary,

First off, I know you'll put this in the right forum. Sorry.

This is for those who are replacing those old control arm bushings with the new poly ones. Or, heck even if your just replacing them with original rubber ones
.... this should help.

Anyway, I know that they tell you to basically burn out the old bushings, take an exacto knife and hack away and have fun. Well, I was doing just that when I took my drill with about a 1/4 inch bit on it and poked through the bushing. The rubber caught the bit and basically spun it all around the outside of the bushing loosening it from the sides of the casing wall. As I let it go and go, it slowly (but much faster than my other progress), removed it from the inside of the casing. After a minute or two, I took my needle nose plyers and pulled it right out.

I then tried it on the other side, which was probably still 3/4th in tact and it did the same thing. SWEET!!!!!

Hope this helps!!!

[baz]

thom it gives me nightmares when folks say do this

the times i've seen drills catch on rubber and plastics and whip round , took 1 guy to hospital to have 4 dislocated fingers put back in and the doc said he was lucky not to lose a finger

[Thom71GT]

Ha ha. Actually, this was so simple that if anyone hurt themselves doing this, then they shouldn't be working on cars. Period. I used a cordless drill and the battery was about to die and it still worked just fine. Actually, I might even recommend it.

Actually, I should add that I had the control arm OFF of the car.

[Thom71GT]

How do I get them out? Is there a special tool or anything I need to get these boogers out? I have them off the car now and want to sand blast them and paint em.

[baz]

1 very large vice or a press and some big thick wall pipe
pipe must clear the base of the ball joint ,put it on the bottom side and a pipe that clears the taper and rests on the top of the ball joint,compress till b/joint pops out fitting is reverse space top of the carrier off and put the b/joint in with a pipe that rests on the edge and not in the centre cap then compress in keep square and be careful

[Turbo X]

Originally Posted by Thom71GT How do I get them out? Is there a special tool or anything I need to get these boogers out? I have them off the car now and want to sand blast them and paint em.

all you want to do is pant them? if you don't have a press or tool for the job I wouldn't do it. you may damage them , and then you would have to replace them..
for that matter if i were going to take them out I would just replace them,, nothing like new parts.

[JackJ]

You should consider getting new ones.A few years ago My 73 Opel Wagon with only 38,000 miles on it(and alot of sitting around in a parking lot for 10 years) started creaking when I turned the wheel.One day in a parking lot I was making a "U-Turn" and "kathud" went the right suspension.The ball portion (of the lower one)popped out of its socket.Yep instant lowrider on the left front wheel.Luckily I popped it back in and drove home careful not to turn the wheel much.I replaced it by putting a short length of steel pipe under it(diameter just a hair larger than the joint housing )and popped it with a small heavy hammer.There should be a "u" ground into the edge of the ball joint housing(notice which way it was pointing upon removeal).You can press it back in (or take it out )with a ball joint press tool from Autozone(basically a loaner you pay for and get your money back after using).This is one area you should not be cheap in!

[Thom71GT]

Ok, so we all know you have to burn out the old rubber bushings, but what if I have an old Poly bushing? I removed my upper control arms and low and behold.... I have a poly bushing in the top. I think I put that in there 20 years ago.

How do I get those things out? I saw an old post with a make up of some kind of "puller". Do you think that might work? Any suggestions are appreciated

[neuropel]

Can't burn it out as well?

[Thom71GT]

I dont know. Seems that that would be really messy.

[formula_raider]

I have never burned them out but what I have does was take a drill bit about 3/8" or smaller and make holes real close to each other in a circular pattern through the bushing. Just be careful not to scrape the inside of the metal sleeve. If you make enough holes the bushing will collaspe and give enough room for you to push it through.

[namba209]

Thom, the puller might have been the one I made when I rebuilt my front suspension. It's somewhere in my Willit? thread, I think. If not, what I used was a threaded rod with washers, nuts, some sockets for spacers and my 3" vice jaws. Basically, the arm went up agains the side of the vice jaws, and I pulled the bushings, by tightenening the nuts on the threaded rod, inside the jaws of the vice. Not real scientific, but functional.