Steering Column '73 GT

[Bed7526]

Bought a '73 GT without keys, need some help removing the ignition cylinder to cut a new key.

I can not figure out how to remove the lock assembly. I thought I saw something about a pin but can not find it now. I have the steering wheel apart and the main hub pulled off.

I have confirmed the ignition is shot and will address that later, need the steering wheel unlocked!!

Next problem is re-wiring everything between the alt., voltage reg, ignition coil and starter. Wires are burnt and crispy, fusible links saved the rest of the harness.

Thanks

Greg
'69 Kadette
'73 GT

[baz]

catch 22 greg you need the key to get the lock into position 2 (aux live pos )
to press the pin in to remove the barrel and if you have the key you dont need to take the barrel out

a lock smith should have a hilti quick pick which will read the position of the pins in the barrel so they can cut a key
they wont have one at a key cutting store in a mall but a yellow pages search should get you a lock smith who can do it

[Lindsay]

This thread should have the information you need:
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/1a-star...ht=jim+branham

Found THREAD using SEARCH Feature.

[baz]

arh but in that thread there was a key ,in this one there is not

[Bed7526]

I did look and do a search but I was searching on steering instead of ignition.

The lead to the thread is very helpful and disappointing since I need the ignition in the run position but I should be at least able to unlock the steering wheel.

Guess I will have to buy another or rig a bypass.

Thanks guys

Greg
'69 Kadette gone
'73 GT

[Lindsay]

Key Word Searches are difficult. Hard to determine what Keyword should be used to obtain results.

Never had to remove a ignition lock cylinder from a GT. Found it was easiest to replace the entire steering column and hope that ignition switch is still OK. Probably can't beat reconditioned switch from Opel GT Source (or others?).

Currently there is a Opel GT Steering Column on eBay, and they usually appear randomly.. Still ... thought the Tread I referenced was a good one, except one might need a key to actually remove ignition, key lock switch.

[namba209]

Here's a quick and dirty way to get a key made up, if the original switch is still in the column. Take a door lock out to a locksmith, both door locks and the ignition used the same key.

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by namba209 Here's a quick and dirty way to get a key made up, if the original switch is still in the column. Take a door lock out to a locksmith, both door locks and the ignition used the same key.

I did this some time ago and it worked like a charm. The door lock cylinder has the key code on it.


Harold

[saxybiker]

Originally Posted by namba209 Take a door lock out to a locksmith, both door locks and the ignition used the same key.

Providing someone hasn't swapped them out. We have a GT that required 4 different keys---one for ignition, one for driver door, one for passenger door and one for gas cap. This caused quite a bit of havoc since I didn't realize it and arrived at Carlisle a couple years ago with only the ignition and gas cap keys.

Thanks to Gene and his expert lock picking the day was saved. We have since had everything rekeyed to match, but as you know...not everything is straight forward with this cars....

Vickie

[Killer Texas GT]

Originally Posted by Bed7526 I did look and do a search but I was searching on steering instead of ignition. The lead to the thread is very helpful and disappointing since I need the ignition in the run position but I should be at least able to unlock the steering wheel. Guess I will have to buy another or rig a bypass. Thanks guys Greg '69 Kadette gone '73 GT

Just to clarify; you bought the steering column just for the ignition switch not for its cylinder. If this be the case you can remove the switch with out removing the cylinder and the steering wheel can remain locked. There are three screws which hold the cover( conceals both switch and cylinder) on, remove these and also the signal switch arm. Work the cover off, its tedious, if you don't need the cover cut the cover in two to remove. Once that is accomplished remove the slotted panhead that holds the switch in and you are in business. If this is not the case and you need the complete unit intact, take it to a lock smith shop as Baz said and have them make you a key or pick it open. Also you may consider taking a door handle down or your old key with you and have the new cylinder pins cut to match your your old key. Or use your old cylinder in the new column and no keys will have to be made.
Average cost to pick the cylinder or make a key for it will be around $85 or as much as $125.
Now I might not be able to save you any money but; PM me with exactly what you need, I maybe able to set you up with everything you need including matching cylinder (steering column if needed) and door handles with keys, but less the switch. Also have some bits and pieces of wiring harness laying around maybe able to pull what you need there also.

[GTJIM]

When you have no key the lock can be removed by the GTJim "increasing-levels-of-violence" Methods.

1) Just get a small pin punch (or Allen Key shank ground down to size - they are tough!) and drive the little pin that holds the lock barrel in place back into the dicast body. Then you can get the un-keyed lock out ... with luck!

2) After removing the switch you can get at the inner end of the key barrel .. and drive it out with a larger punch.

3) Get hold of a "Lock Plucker" which is a specialised slide hammer with tough steel inserts that lock into the key slot - Whoompa! OUT comes the key barrel!

4) NEVER try to drill a lock out unless all else fails ......

5) .... even melting out the die cast barrel.

[baz]

lock pullers jim im shocked you know about them
it can break the casting the barrel fits in if you are unlucky

[69-GT]

i recently did #1 on GTJim's list and it worked flawlessly.

[Bed7526]

Yes, I have three different door handles to choose from to match a key. I choose the only one that was still mounted on the car and it did not match. Previouse onwer confirm that he purchase the other handles elsewhere. All door handles have different key codes.

Will try some force on removing the lock.

Success...I did manage to rewire the coil and get the engine to start. Now will try and remove the lock to get the steering unlocked.

Will post another question about floor pans.

Greg
'73 GT

[namba209]

Just put in a rebuilt ignition switch in Willit? Here's a hint, pull the steering wheel, then take off the housing behind it, (3 phillips screws), you can take the switch out and access the steering lock cam. Note the wiring, and position of the shaft and circlip on the shaft that goes through the cam mechanism. Also you can pull out the complete tumbler mechanism to get a key matched, possibly, with the housing removed. HTH.

[opeljohn]

I have also been trying to work on the Steering column on my GT. Along the way I have bought some off of Ebay. One of those did not have a key. After taking it apart including taking out the shaft I found I could depress the column lock tab and move the key cylinder back and forth. Still did not solve my problem but did revel some numbers on the lock cylinder. I took it to lock smith thinking those were the magic numbers, NOT. These guys said leave it and let them play with it on their slow times. Took a few days but they did get it keyed. Cost about 40 bucks. I have taken apart three columns to try and make one good one. My GT is a 72 which has a door buzzer circuit. The column I had with a key was from an early model with no buzzer. The cylinder with no key does have the circuit which is why I wanted it keyed. I think I have the pieces and parts now just hope I remember how they go back together. By the way there was a good article in the OMC BLITZ a couple months back on the column with a good exploded view.

[namba209]

John, Willit? has the same setup, I think, with two buzzers, one for the seat belts and the other sounds off when the key is left in the ignition and the door opens. There is a small contact inside the tumbler housing barrel with a gray wire attached that grounds through the second door jam switch then the ignition buzzer relay, power is to that buzzer all the time. The way it works is, power is on the buzzer all the time, when the door is open it closes the door jam switch and the buzzer is grounded through the jam switch and the contact in the tumbler, if the key is left in. Close the door or remove the key and the ground is broken. It's one of those circuits I can figure out in the DESTEC (JJ's) schematic.

[opeljohn]

Ron
My idea was to have a fully functional column to put in the GT before I took the old one out to repair it. I was a bit baffled when I was getting ready to put one together and noticed no place to attach gray wire. I was going to have OMC rebuild the starter switch out of that one but will now put it away in case I ever get a 69. All this has made me rethink what a really good column with steering wheel and rebuilt starter switch is worth.
John