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#1 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Peru, IN
Posts: 74
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Unanswered: Tie rods
Pat |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: corning ny 14830
Posts: 2,182
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Some spray penetrant may help, though you should look to make sure that the pickle fork you are using is small enough as the tie rod ends are very small along with the ball joints. When work with the ball joints I use a conventional tie rod separator and it may be beneficial to obtain an even smaller fork for the tie rods.
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1970 Opel GT 1.9 1980 Moto Guzzi V50 2000 Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo 2000 KTM 200 exc STOLEN |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: oakland,or
Posts: 233
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You may need to hit that fork Very hard to get it to pop loose. There are at least 3 different sizes of forks, use the smallest that fits. I only use a fork as a last resort, the usually tear the boot. OK if you are replacing. I like to use the MAC tools GM pitman arm puller, but if a LOT of force is needed this can deform the cotter pin hole. Another method I use on a lot of cars, a long heavy bar placed between the rack and the rod end pry up or down(depends on how the end is in spindle) and give a sharp hard rap with a hammer on the outside of the spindle where the tapered end of the tie rod goes through it.
Dan |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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former opel racer
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: near some glaciers
Posts: 2,863
Real Name: Jeff "Oh-Oh" Denton
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It takes a heck of a whack, with the biggest hammer you dare. The procedure will loosen the tie rod end's tapered shaft from the mating tapered hole in the steering arm. If one whack didn't do it, it wasn't hard enough and/or the hammer isn't big enough. Unlike using a pickle fork, there is no damage to any parts.
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No Opels were harmed in the filming of this movie. However two Mustangs, a Pinto, and a Capri were hospitalized. One Mustang was euthanized the next morning. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Old Opeler
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 5,686
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Ouch!
OUCH! This 'brutality' method actually deforms the tapered hole - permanently. A 'pickle fork' is much more civilised ... but can also need a hefty whack. Damaging the ball joint is a better proposition than damaging the steering arm ... as you are replacing the ball joint (or why would you be removing it??).
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GTJim Opel Owner since last Century! Copyright © 2000-2009 J D Henry All Rights Reserved |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Senior Contributor
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Leonard, Texas
Posts: 888
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Another way
I all you need to do is install a new boot and not replace any of the parts, you can try this method and save all the torturing on he suspension. Separate the inner tie rod from the rack; you just have to straighten out the "retainer washer" (that prevents the inner tie rod from backing off) it takes two wrenches one to hold the rack the other to loosen the rod end from it, remove your old boot, install your new one, re-install the inner tie rod and tighten, bend the retainer washer over on the flat of the rod and then tighten the clamps on your new boots. The front end set up (alignment) stays the same and you won't ruin any existing parts by hitting on them.
(2 1/2 weeks in Germany was a blast can't wait to go back )
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rk 68 Kadett 2 Dr 1.1 SR/Rallye Suspension 68 Kadett Rallye 1.9/4 Spd & AC 69 GT 1.9/4 Spd 70 GT 1.9/5 Spd,87 Impulse PB/MC/4 wheel 10.5" vented Disc/complete suspension/power assist & tilt wheel steering 71 Kadett 2 Dr 1.1/4 Spd/4 wheel drum brakes(project:to a 1.9 FI/Auto 75 Big Brakes/Impulse vented rr Disc, Factory AC from Buick/Opel by Isuzu 72 GT 1.9 FI/Auto 75 Big Brakes/Impulse vented rr Disc 73 Manta Rallye 75 Ascona 1.9 FI/5 Spd/Impulse rr Disc brakes OPEL WERKS |
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