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Old 05-25-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Unanswered: Tie rods

Okay before I go and use too much force to get these things off, is there any little trick to getting them off. I am putting new boots on and have the "pickle fork" to get tie rods off. I tried with one today and didn't want to get too aggressive and get into more trouble. I have the cotter pin out, the bolt off, and the bar tapped in. Not breaking loose. Is there something else or should I just drive it hard and hope for the best?

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Old 05-25-2008   #2 (permalink)
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Some spray penetrant may help, though you should look to make sure that the pickle fork you are using is small enough as the tie rod ends are very small along with the ball joints. When work with the ball joints I use a conventional tie rod separator and it may be beneficial to obtain an even smaller fork for the tie rods.
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Old 05-26-2008   #3 (permalink)
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You may need to hit that fork Very hard to get it to pop loose. There are at least 3 different sizes of forks, use the smallest that fits. I only use a fork as a last resort, the usually tear the boot. OK if you are replacing. I like to use the MAC tools GM pitman arm puller, but if a LOT of force is needed this can deform the cotter pin hole. Another method I use on a lot of cars, a long heavy bar placed between the rack and the rod end pry up or down(depends on how the end is in spindle) and give a sharp hard rap with a hammer on the outside of the spindle where the tapered end of the tie rod goes through it.

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Old 05-26-2008   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ddoyle View Post
a sharp hard rap with a hammer on the outside of the spindle where the tapered end of the tie rod goes through it.

Dan
This is how it's done. I wouldn't call it a spindle, though, it is the steering arm which is attached to the spindle.
It takes a heck of a whack, with the biggest hammer you dare. The procedure will loosen the tie rod end's tapered shaft from the mating tapered hole in the steering arm. If one whack didn't do it, it wasn't hard enough and/or the hammer isn't big enough.
Unlike using a pickle fork, there is no damage to any parts.
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Old 05-26-2008   #5 (permalink)
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Ouch!

Originally Posted by jeff denton View Post
This is how it's done .... It takes a heck of a whack, with the biggest hammer you dare .... Unlike using a pickle fork, there is no damage to any parts.
OUCH! This 'brutality' method actually deforms the tapered hole - permanently. A 'pickle fork' is much more civilised ... but can also need a hefty whack. Damaging the ball joint is a better proposition than damaging the steering arm ... as you are replacing the ball joint (or why would you be removing it??).
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Old 05-26-2008   #6 (permalink)
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Another way

I all you need to do is install a new boot and not replace any of the parts, you can try this method and save all the torturing on he suspension. Separate the inner tie rod from the rack; you just have to straighten out the "retainer washer" (that prevents the inner tie rod from backing off) it takes two wrenches one to hold the rack the other to loosen the rod end from it, remove your old boot, install your new one, re-install the inner tie rod and tighten, bend the retainer washer over on the flat of the rod and then tighten the clamps on your new boots. The front end set up (alignment) stays the same and you won't ruin any existing parts by hitting on them.

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