Twitchy Steering

[GTJIM]

"Castor Adjustment" Search found this:

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/102910-post5.html

[matl59]

Things are progressing slowly but unfortunately due to a huge lack of free time lately they're moving a little slower then I had hoped. I've painted most of the components, turned new steel sleeves for the upper a frame bushings and ordered the remaining items needed to put it all back together...

After reviewing the drawing in the last post I noticed a dampening ring (number 4), is that a rubber washer? Is that only on the rear side?

[matl59]

Still picking away at it...hope im back on the road before summers over

Anyone have any thoughts on the dampening ring I asked about a couple weeks back?

I've torn down the steering rack to fully inspect and lube it. I found it to be in pretty good shape but did find that the u-joint knuckle that connects the column to the rack is seized in one direction. The other direction swings smoothly. Probably caused the rack to rock in the mounts and contributed to my steering issues... It does not appear to be a serviceable part since the joint is crimped into it and I don't think I've seen them available new. Anyone have any suggestions for freeing it up? If not then does anyone have a spare?

[jeff denton]

Oh Yeah! You found the problem. Everything has to work smoothly, otherwise you fight it and overcorrection occurs to the point that you are all over the road. Too tight can be as bad as too loose. Good job. Shouldn't be a problem to locate another. Call OGTS, call Opel Jim. They have parts.

[matl59]

Well no luck at OGTS. I think I'll be attempting to do something with the knuckle I have, heat like heck and lube... I may end up cutting the yoke off the pinion and mount an aftermarket one from JEGS or SUMMET, anyone ever do this?

Another question for the group. What do you do with the original leaf spring when doing a rebuild (aside from scrap and buy new aftermarket from OGTS) My spring is in good shape but the rubbers that go over the ends of the center leaf are shot. Anyone have a solution for this? As far as I'm awaire no one reproduces these rubber parts but maybe I'm wrong.

Thanks again,

Matt

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by matl59 My spring is in good shape but the rubbers that go over the ends of the center leaf are shot. Anyone have a solution for this? As far as I'm awaire no one reproduces these rubber parts but maybe I'm wrong. Matt

OGTS does. I recently picked up two "rebuild" kits. They have a kit that has all of the rubber parts you need for the front spring except the spring eye bushings. They sell those separately.

Harold

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by matl59 Well no luck at OGTS. I think I'll be attempting to do something with the knuckle I have, heat like heck and lube...

I have done this with the inline Manta steering u-joints in the past. Heated them slightly with a heat gun (not a torch!!), then immersed the u-joint into a coffee can filled with slightly heated 10W-30 synthetic engine oil. It seeps into every nook and loosens the joint up. A short term solution (a few years maybe), but it works.

I may end up cutting the yoke off the pinion and mount an aftermarket one from JEGS or SUMMET, anyone ever do this?

You mean like this?
Just make sure it's done right. These u-joints are often chromoly, so you have to be careful welding them and use the right filler rod. If you overheat the weld area you will embrittle the joint and it may fail.

[OpelJim]

Originally Posted by matl59 Well no luck at OGTS. I think I'll be attempting to do something with the knuckle I have, heat like heck and lube... I may end up cutting the yoke off the pinion and mount an aftermarket one from JEGS or SUMMET, anyone ever do this? Another question for the group. What do you do with the original leaf spring when doing a rebuild (aside from scrap and buy new aftermarket from OGTS) My spring is in good shape but the rubbers that go over the ends of the center leaf are shot. Anyone have a solution for this? As far as I'm awaire no one reproduces these rubber parts but maybe I'm wrong. Thanks again, Matt

Hi Matt
Well if you want spring eye bushings we have those on the shelf new old stock OEM
If you need the spacers we have those in good used condition too
We would be happy to help you

Try Usa Opel / Opels Forever we have parts too
760 497 5360 M-F 9AM to 6PM

Jim M aka Opel Jim

[matl59]

Thanks for the tips guys.

As far as the spring goes I have poly spring eye bushings already. I'll check with OTGS tomorrow on those rebuild kits for the other pieces. I'd prefer new but will certainly keep you in mind OpelJim.

Nice work on the steering knuckle Bob. That is pretty much as I had invisioned. I was thinking about the possibility of making the end of the pinion gear accept a double D style u-joint like the column thus avoiding welding of the components. I've yet to look into whether I'd even be able to find a u-joint like that but it's a thought. I don't have access to TIG or the skills to put a good weld on a critical component like this...

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by matl59 I was thinking about the possibility of making the end of the pinion gear accept a double D style u-joint like the column thus avoiding welding of the components. I've yet to look into whether I'd even be able to find a u-joint like that but it's a thought.

They are available, but for some reason pricier than most.

Steering U-Joints
91032298 U-Joint, 3/4" DD to 3/4" DD
Length: 3.75"
Width: 1.38"
Lock screws increase width to 1.564" EA $73.99

[matl59]

Well its taken about ten times what I had originally hoped but things are finally going back together. I may still get in a little driving this year before it snows! Wish I had more then one day every two weeks or so to work on it...

I assembled the upper A frames to the cross member yesterday. I chose to go with polyurethane bushings from OGTS. They fit nice but now that its all together I can shift the a frame back and forth about an 1/8 inch. Doesn't seam right to me but I'm pretty sure I have everything back together the way it came off. Does this sound normal? If no, then anyone have any ideas as to what up. I'll try to post some pics later this week if that would help.

[tomking]

It is NOT normal. You are talking about the upper A frame? It sounds like you have left the spacers out. Read the factory service manual. There is supposed to be .48 inches of spacers in there to adjust caster. The spacers should total .48 inches and they come in .12, .24 and .36 inch thicknesses.

[matl59]

Thanks for the note, the spacers are in place. They are equal thickness .24 inch spacers, one on each side.

I'll look things over closely this weekend and take some pictures...

[matl59]

Couple of pictures as promised. Sorry they are not the best.

With the bolt tight I have a gap between the outer face of the bushing and the outer washer. This allows movement back and forth of the a-frame. Everything appears to be correct according to my manual. The other side came out like this as well with a similar amount of play.

The only way I see to eliminate this slop is to shorten the sleaves which run through the poly bushings. Am I missing something?

There is a dampener ring mentioned in the manual but I was told by OGTS that it was not needed when using poly busings and that still would not fix the gap I have.

[tomking]

The dampener rings missing is not the problem, as OGTS said. Did you install a NEW bolt or use the old one? It sounds like perhaps it is a new bolt and it is not threaded sufficiently long and the nut is tightening before it contacts the spacers.
Did you install a washer beneath the head of the bolt as well as the nut?

[matl59]

The bolt is tight against the metal sleeves. The assembly can't get any tighter without shortening the sleeves or using a thinner shim between the sleeve and the crossmember. As Tomking and my manual state the shims should be .48 inches and the sleeves are stock length so I'm kind of lost.

Any other thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.

[tomking]

Then it sounds like the metal sleeves are too long.