Steering Build UP, New U-joint

[FrankDaTank]

Well it’s been a full ten months of working on my GT. This forum has helped me a lot. I figure it is time for me to contribute.(not sure to what extent)

First the disclaimer, I by no means take any responsibility for the accuracy, function , FITMENT or SAFETY of the following modifications. I am in no way suggesting that anyone else try this. This is just what I did.

Ok… I also did not take too many pictures before or during, but I think I took enough after.

First I disassembled the whole assembly following the FSM. The Only trick was getting the Pinion Needle bearing out with out damaging it. I did this by placing a 13mm-16mm Socket ( I can’t remember which one I was able to turn inside the housing) and taping with a 3/8” drive extender it through the bottom pinion hole through the inside as to drive it out.

I left in place all the bronze bushing and sintered metal bushings, and sent the housing to a Machine Shop to get cleaned and blasted with glass bead. Using carb-cleaner, I cleaned out all the parts (Except the two o-rings), and then wire wheeled almost everything, then re-painted the tie rod arms. (edit) ... also painted the housing with Eastwood's Aluma Blast Paint.

The needle bearing was submersed in a rust dissolver overnight and cleaned out as much as possible, then re-greased.

[FrankDaTank]

The Problem was that the u-Joint in the Pinion shaft was in terrible shape. And I tried several routes to try to rebuild. With no luck I followed a route given to me by a friend “...just cut the u-joint and weld a new one...” He’s not a mechanically inclined person but the simplicity of his suggestion was irresistible.

After some research I found a universal steering U-joint (Flaming River Part #1750). A really nice piece of billet metal, very well built. On one side it is a “¾’ DD” which accepts the factory shaft perfectly, an on the other it is a 7/8” Smooth to accept the Pinion Shaft.

The 7/8” opening is a smaller that the shaft, which meant that the shaft would have to be machined down a bit, plus the part of the u-joint was cut and machined down to create as much shaft as possible to try to keep the factory steering shaft. The original factory pinion shaft an u-joint measure 7 ¾“ tall the new machined shaft mated to the new u-joint was only 1/8” Shorter. I’m gambling that there is enough play in the steering shaft, if not Flaming river makes a ¾” DD Slotted shaft that can be cut to fit.

Everything matched out fine, and I followed the u-joints instructions and NO WELDING was done. Just use Locktite and set screws.

[FrankDaTank]

I greased everything up, and assembled everything together following the FSM instructions.

I then proceeded to attach the steering assembly to the suspension and found a problem I had not considered. The New U-joint is “fatter” and slightly hits the suspension cross-member The u-joint still rotates , but the set screws that stick out of the u-joint hit the suspension and do not allow the u-joint to turn.

I Plan to fix this tonight by changing the set screws to shorter ones. As for the u-joint rubbing against the suspension housing I’m going to do one of three thins 1. have the u-joint machined down. 2. Place a spacer between the steering housing and the suspension to move the housing about 1/8” to ¼” forward. Or # 3. Grind down the suspension cross member to allow a bit more clearance. Probably will do #2 or #3.

All in all I spent about $130 in parts and machining costs. That does not include tie rod ends which are going to be replaced.

[BQS4]

While you're having the "U" joint turned down, why not have the holes for those button head socket screws counter bored to use flat head socket screws, that way, they'll still do their job, but not stick out.

[FrankDaTank]

Originally Posted by BQS4 While you're having the "U" joint turned down, why not have the holes for those button head socket screws counter bored to use flat head socket screws, that way, they'll still do their job, but not stick out.

Well, first of all, I did not think it was going to be a problem, and second I can easily buy shorter set crews, infact I already did, at the local home improvement store on may way home from work.

[markandson]

I would weld it if I were you. Set screws come loose all the time, loctite or no loctite, your life is on the line.

[RallyBob]

I second the motion to weld it. I had aftermarket u-joints in my '73 Ascona, and even with loctite and a lock nut, one loosened up on the highway in the middle of a big sweeping turn. Fortunately there was little traffic so I just slowed the car to the side of the road (no option...it went where it wanted to go!), and tightened it by hand every 5 miles or so. I then welded it, and it got 5 years of track and street use without incident after that.