Steering gear lubrication

[Dmcbrass]

I've disassembled my steering rack in my 70 GT as part of my front suspension rebuild. What is the proper procedure for relubrication. I have one recommendation that says I should put as much CV joint grease in to the housing as it will hold, but the factory service manual cautions about over greasing causing a vacuum to be pulled on the steering boots. What have you guys had success with. After I reassemble the steering rack, and replace the front brake lines I'll be ready to start assembling everything.
I haven't driven my GT for a couple of months. I don't know how you guys handle a complete restore. I'd have serious withdrawal symptoms before 6 months came around.

[markandson]

I would follow the FSM recommendation, at least that is what I did when I rebuilt mine. I have not put it into service yet. The vacuum problem and the rubber boots makes sense to me, plus when I disassembled two units during my rebuild they both only had enough grease inside to do the job, not full.

[GTJIM]

"Force 1 3/4 oz (50 grammes) of lubricant intothe long end of the housing"
and
"Grease the rack and insert into the short end of the housing" ... "See that the grease was from the housings not ejected from the housing as the rack was inserted."
"....grease GM 4647 M .. " is the specification for the grease.

So the housing is not stuffed full of grease; just enough to do the job.

[soybean]

When I rebuilt mine last year, I followed the FSM but put the grease in before I put the rubber boots on. Here's the thread and post 10 is the Napa CV grease I used. Post 17 shows the rack apart. http://www.opelgt.com/forums/3b-steering-linkage-column-gear-box/4419-left-wheel-wobbles.html
HTH, Jarrell

[GTJIM]

The most important replacement parts for a steering rack are the seals and lock washers.

There is a seal around the neck of the pinion, under the universal joint that MUST be replaced during a rebuild - OGTS recently had them reproduced.

Also the rubber 'boots' or 'bellows' need to be kept in good condition to keep water and muck out of the rack. Go out, crawl under your car and check them NOW! They can be replaced without removing the rack from the car.

The lock washers are two thin, flat washers which go between the track arm and the ends of the rack. They are bent over to stop the track arm unscrewing from the end of the rack. While replacing the rubber boots, check that your rack actually has them! Some "P O" rebuilders may well have left them out when replacing the track arms. Thin steel washers of the appropriate size with do the job if the original item can not be found. They are important!

[Dmcbrass]

GTJIM,
I only removed one tie rod to disassemble. That one had the lock washer and it looks to be in OK shape. The rubber O ring on the pinion and the bellows look like new. Had to replace the rubber boot on the pinion due to several cracks. Thanks for the advice on the lubrication. That makes sense to me. The CV joint grease that I bought came in two plastic bags. I'll check and see if the quantity is stamped on tham. Thanks again.
Doug