Steering Wheel Puller

stvcsk · 01-14-2003

How do you pull the wheel off of the steering column. The "universal GM steering wheel puller" from napa doesn't fit. Tried making one out of steel, but it's too soft.

Steve
70 GT

Gary · 01-15-2003

A site search for "steering wheel puller" turned up this thread: http://opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=369 There is a photo of a wheel puller in it.

kwilford · 01-15-2003

It's a bit hard to see in the picture, but those "arms" are just common 5/16 inch grade 5 bolts, with the heads ground down. I happened to use carriage bolts, which gives a rounded pulling lip with an "edge", while a regular bolt will provide a thicker lip. Your choice. I guess the thicker lip would be stronger. Or you could use a grade 8 bolt, but it is tougher to grind to shape.

A picture of Otto's puller can be seen on a later post.

Mine are approximately 4 inches long (but three inches would work), and you grind the bolt head so that it is off-set (lip on one side, none on the other), and "just" fits through the oval hole in the horn button. Slip the arms through the puller beam (available at any auto center) and then rotate each bolt so that the lip points to the inside. Tighten the center bolt against the shaft (with the nut off, of course), and the wheel should pop off. Remember to mark the wheel position relative to the shaft, so it goes back on straight.

DON'T use a hammer to help it off, either by striking the column shaft or the underside of the steering wheel. You risk damaging the "Energy Absorbing, Locking Column", by loosening the plastic injections that maintain steering shaft rigidity. (Just reading from the factory service manual). If you have a factory manual, look at the photo in figure 90-32, page 90-16, to see it in action. They even have marked the bolts to indicate which direction the "lip" is facing. Oh, look at that! I did it to mine too!

HTH

CopperCan · 01-15-2003

Check this out: UNITOOL # UT7404 steering wheel puller made especially for GM Vauxhall / Opel Models. I purchased mine last October at 2-Way Automotive in Amherstburg Ont. I believe it ran me around $25. Check it out at your friendly neighbourhood parts dealer.

Dan.

opelgt722002 · 01-22-2003

I just ordered the unitool # UT7404 directly from Unitool at 1-800-361-0417 for about $23 US.

Bob

opelgt722002 · 07-28-2003

Dan, just had a chance to use that unitool steering wheel puller and it worked like a champ. Thanks for the info.

pvcar · 07-29-2003

i still like my luck i no one of the major NA bitter
parts dealers here in cali and he had an origanal
steering wheel puller which they would have had
at the dealer to remove the steering wheels on
opels/bitters i borrowed that and it worked the
best although looking at some of these home
made pullers they almost look like the one i used.......

opeldean · 10-04-2003

how do I fix the turn signal stalk?

will a unitool pull off the steering wheeL?I assume I have to pulll the wheel.

Gil is sending me parts but I don't know how to install yet..

thanks.. signal stalk is limp and celeste is waiting

I think this is a nardi wheel.

GTJIM · 10-05-2003

Hi All from New Zealand!

I have found that the threaded end of the steering shaft that the
nut goes on is VERY soft and easy to compress with a steering
wheel puller of the type that pushes against the end of it.
To minimise damage I made up a steel sleeve with a 10mm thread
inside and an outside diameter just small enough to pass through the spline in the hub. The outer end of the sleeve was closed so that the puller screw pushed on that end and transfered the thrust down to the shoulder above the spline, thus
not loading the thread at all. Did this on my SECOND shaft :-(
Even experienced engineers have to learn by their mistakes!
Hope this helps
GTJIM

oldopelguy · 10-05-2003

I use an old socket the same way. Just pick one the right size to fit over the threads, and use the puller against the square driver end of the socket.

opeldean · 10-06-2003

The PO put on a Nardi,I need to pull it to get to the broken ring
of pot metal that anchors the Stalk.

HAs anyone seen a tool that will pull my wheel?will the unitool work on my nardi wheel?

this is the one I bought at the car parts place,and it wont work as there is no bolt hole to grab on to, also observe the odd 2 sline nut that holds it on...seen a tool for that...I have been
bowsing Nardi sites..no luck yet.

pvcar · 10-07-2003

doesnt it use the same hub as the origanal gt used.the gt uses a specail wheel puller that does not use the screw method like amny american cars and such use brows the site there was a forum on how to make one of these specail pullers but i was lucky and happened to now a guy who had the real tool they sold it is easy to make though search the forums.

opeldean · 10-07-2003

here is the photo in my manual..A tool like this ..doesnt look like it will work on my wheel

BQS4 · 10-07-2003

Bucky;
Just to put in my $.02 worth, since you have to get this wheel off to fix your problem, I'd go and get a regular 2 & 3 (meaning you can attach it at 2 or 3 points) puller, drill 2 or 3 holes (space permitting) either at the base of the adaptor (the flat area around the nut holding the adaptor to the steering column) and use those to attach the puller (the holes will no be visible when you re-install everything) or drill the holes through the side of the adaptor, and fabricate "J" hooks for the puller and use them. (the holes in the sides of the adaptor will not be visible, unless you know where to look) Make sure you spray the shaft with "PB Blaster" before you start and let it soak in, it'll make it easier (hopefully)

houserc · 10-07-2003

From the looks of your pictures, you might need to remove the allen screws and possibly use their holes for your puller.

The other option might be something like a pitman arm puller. The have the "J" arms that will reach around the back of your sterring wheel to pull it off. If the there is a resonable lip for them to grab, you'd want to put a rag or something between them and the wheel to protect your wheel from marring.

What time do you have Saturday? I could swing by to see if mine would work. If not, your no worst off.

Chris

GTJIM · 10-07-2003

Hi Bucky

I see in your pic "puller.jpg" that the Nardi steering wheel is fitted to the alloy hub with a number of counter-sunk hex head screws in a circle around where the horn fits in. If you remove these the actual wheel itself will come off and leave a ring of threaded holes that can be used to attach the disc type puller you also pictured. Just use the wheel itself to see if the disc is of large enough diameter to drill matching holes in, using the Nardi wheel as a template to locate the holes on the rim of the puller.
The threads are probably metric (check/find someone who knows) so do not try to screw any old bolts into the alloy hub.
The counter-sunk screws may be usable but be sure that they are long enough as the alloy hub is very soft and the threads will pull out and be damaged if maximum thread engagement is not used. Remember to remove the centre nut and protect the shaft thread too - opeloldguy's suggestion of a socket is probably easiest. Just be sure that the socket sits on the shoulder above the spline and not on the end of the thread and also that the outside diameter of the socket fits through the spline hole in the alloy hub so that the splines will not be damaged either.
Hope this helps too.

opeldean · 10-07-2003

the central nut has 2 slots.I assume there must be a special wrench to take it off which I have not found.

the slots have an angled(sloped) floor that makes it impossible for me to grind a tool to fit.my first attempt failed.

1)I went to the local car part place..no luck on a wrench.

2)a Nardi dealer on the web told me to take it to a shop.

3)I am not giving up yet...I guess I am going to roam some tool suppliers tomorrow.

4)anyone seen this before?

oldopelguy · 10-07-2003

Bucky, check out a "drag link socket" at your favorite parts store or sears. It won't work as purchased, but a few minutes with a grinder in the center of the blade and you'll be set.

houserc · 10-08-2003

I don't know what parts place you went to, but somebody, like NAPA or CarQuest, around us, might have the tool. Maybe even Snap-On might have something.

It almost, but not quite, looks like the socket used to pull the locking mechanism out of four-wheel drive front wheels (minus two of the slots).

I would try a couple other stores and ask them if they have any sugestions.

The other thing is, I remember buying the socket tool I did and it was quite expensive. Even more so when you factored in only using it to take off the front rotor and then install it.

You could even try fabricating one from a socket of the same diameter. (cut and grind, as oldopelguy said.)

C

opeldean · 10-08-2003

chris and all:the guy at the car parts shop said go the clark tools on shawnee misssion road.I might stop buy the nice VW shop chris mentioned..chris ..where was it?

I will go there and if all else fails use wiseopelguys idea (wise opel sounds better than oldopel) and try to grind in a tool.

I took a vacation day to play..my wifes sister is coming in to town so she will not need any attention.my kids are in school tilll 3;30..yipee a day to work on my opel.

I will post photos when I get something done.

Old Hippie · 10-08-2003

bucky, if you, or a fab-shop near you, have some scrap steel bar-stock, you can make a u-blade that should take the stress. Weld a piece of re-bar (got a welder?) to the top or use a medium pipewrench. Or try the blades of a ball joint splitter.
2 cents.

Gary · 10-08-2003

What about trying the old "hit-the-outer-edge-of-the-nut-with-a-punch-to-free-it" trick?

houserc · 10-08-2003

I'm getting quite the chuckle from reading back through all the "advice" given here.

Bucky, the VW shop is north on Merriam Drive. It is located before you get to I-635 on the North/west side of the road. (the road turns from north/south to more east/west as you go north.)

There is also a steel shop, Shawnee Steel and welding, located, also, on Merriam Drive, just north of Shawnee Mission Parkway. From where you live get to Shawnee mission parkway, cross West over I-35 and stay in the right hand lane. This will exit onto Merriam Drive.

Have fun driving North. There are LOTS of car repair places along there that might have what you need.

opeldean · 10-08-2003

believe it or not..wheel HAD NO nut, I have been driving it since I got it ..sitting on just the threaded post. the PO had twisted it off and didnt tell me.

I twisted the heck out of the bottom notch..took it to a mechanic.
he impact wrenched it until he figured out it was stripped. the notch we were looking at was PART of the HUB!

anyway.wheel is off by hammering and pulling with our hands.

Question

oes anyone know how I install the new ring?

thaNKS A LOT

opeldean · 10-08-2003

I wanted you guys to know that I follow your advice and
I am am having so much much fun with the coolest car in the world.

01-14-2003	#1 (permalink)
stvcsk Opeler Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Norcross, GA Posts: 10	Unanswered: Steering Wheel Puller How do you pull the wheel off of the steering column. The "universal GM steering wheel puller" from napa doesn't fit. Tried making one out of steel, but it's too soft. Steve 70 GT

01-15-2003	#3 (permalink)
kwilford Über OpelGT.com Moderator Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Posts: 4,087 Real Name: Keith Wilford Provided Answers: 4	Opel Steering Wheel Puller It's a bit hard to see in the picture, but those "arms" are just common 5/16 inch grade 5 bolts, with the heads ground down. I happened to use carriage bolts, which gives a rounded pulling lip with an "edge", while a regular bolt will provide a thicker lip. Your choice. I guess the thicker lip would be stronger. Or you could use a grade 8 bolt, but it is tougher to grind to shape. A picture of Otto's puller can be seen on a later post. Mine are approximately 4 inches long (but three inches would work), and you grind the bolt head so that it is off-set (lip on one side, none on the other), and "just" fits through the oval hole in the horn button. Slip the arms through the puller beam (available at any auto center) and then rotate each bolt so that the lip points to the inside. Tighten the center bolt against the shaft (with the nut off, of course), and the wheel should pop off. Remember to mark the wheel position relative to the shaft, so it goes back on straight. DON'T use a hammer to help it off, either by striking the column shaft or the underside of the steering wheel. You risk damaging the "Energy Absorbing, Locking Column", by loosening the plastic injections that maintain steering shaft rigidity. (Just reading from the factory service manual). If you have a factory manual, look at the photo in figure 90-32, page 90-16, to see it in action. They even have marked the bolts to indicate which direction the "lip" is facing. Oh, look at that! I did it to mine too! HTH __________________ Keith Wilford working on my '71 GT and '75 SportWagon Last edited by kwilford; 04-28-2004 at 11:18 PM.

01-22-2003	#5 (permalink)
opelgt722002 GT Owner Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Houston, Texas Posts: 229	steering wheel puller I just ordered the unitool # UT7404 directly from Unitool at 1-800-361-0417 for about $23 US. Bob

07-28-2003	#6 (permalink)
opelgt722002 GT Owner Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Houston, Texas Posts: 229	steering wheel puller Dan, just had a chance to use that unitool steering wheel puller and it worked like a champ. Thanks for the info. __________________ Bob

07-29-2003	#7 (permalink)
pvcar 4ZUA787 Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Rancho Palos Verdes CA,USA Posts: 668	steering wheel puller i still like my luck i no one of the major NA bitter parts dealers here in cali and he had an origanal steering wheel puller which they would have had at the dealer to remove the steering wheels on opels/bitters i borrowed that and it worked the best although looking at some of these home made pullers they almost look like the one i used.......

01-15-2003	#4 (permalink)
CopperCan Opeler Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Harrow ON. Posts: 17	Check this out: UNITOOL # UT7404 steering wheel puller made especially for GM Vauxhall / Opel Models. I purchased mine last October at 2-Way Automotive in Amherstburg Ont. I believe it ran me around $25. Check it out at your friendly neighbourhood parts dealer. Dan.

10-05-2003	#9 (permalink)
GTJIM Old Opeler Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: New Zealand Posts: 5,686 Provided Answers: 12	Steering Wheel Puller Hi All from New Zealand! I have found that the threaded end of the steering shaft that the nut goes on is VERY soft and easy to compress with a steering wheel puller of the type that pushes against the end of it. To minimise damage I made up a steel sleeve with a 10mm thread inside and an outside diameter just small enough to pass through the spline in the hub. The outer end of the sleeve was closed so that the puller screw pushed on that end and transfered the thrust down to the shoulder above the spline, thus not loading the thread at all. Did this on my SECOND shaft :-( Even experienced engineers have to learn by their mistakes! Hope this helps GTJIM __________________ GTJim Opel Owner since last Century! Copyright © 2000-2009 J D Henry All Rights Reserved

10-05-2003	#10 (permalink)
oldopelguy Have Opel, Will Travel Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Saint Michael, MN Posts: 1,727 Logbook Entries: 3 Provided Answers: 2	socket I use an old socket the same way. Just pick one the right size to fit over the threads, and use the puller against the square driver end of the socket. __________________ 1958 Rekord Sedan, 1958 Olympia Wagon, 1959 Opel Olympia Sedan, 1967 Kadett Coupe, 1967 Admiral Sedan 4L CIH-6, 1968 Kadett fastback 1.1L, 1970 Kadett Wagon Turbo 2.2L, 1971 Kadett Sedan 1.1L, 1975 Manta Wagon 4.3L V-6

10-07-2003	#12 (permalink)
pvcar 4ZUA787 Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Rancho Palos Verdes CA,USA Posts: 668	doesnt it use the same hub as the origanal gt used.the gt uses a specail wheel puller that does not use the screw method like amny american cars and such use brows the site there was a forum on how to make one of these specail pullers but i was lucky and happened to now a guy who had the real tool they sold it is easy to make though search the forums.

10-07-2003	#14 (permalink)
BQS4 Southern Red Neck Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Snellville, GA Posts: 6,028 Real Name: Gene Provided Answers: 12	Bucky; Just to put in my $.02 worth, since you have to get this wheel off to fix your problem, I'd go and get a regular 2 & 3 (meaning you can attach it at 2 or 3 points) puller, drill 2 or 3 holes (space permitting) either at the base of the adaptor (the flat area around the nut holding the adaptor to the steering column) and use those to attach the puller (the holes will no be visible when you re-install everything) or drill the holes through the side of the adaptor, and fabricate "J" hooks for the puller and use them. (the holes in the sides of the adaptor will not be visible, unless you know where to look) Make sure you spray the shaft with "PB Blaster" before you start and let it soak in, it'll make it easier (hopefully) __________________ "Yes, I do have a rifle rack in my Sportwagon"

10-07-2003	#15 (permalink)
houserc 70's Opeler, back 4 more! Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Shawnee, KS (Kansas City Area) Posts: 409	From the looks of your pictures, you might need to remove the allen screws and possibly use their holes for your puller. The other option might be something like a pitman arm puller. The have the "J" arms that will reach around the back of your sterring wheel to pull it off. If the there is a resonable lip for them to grab, you'd want to put a rag or something between them and the wheel to protect your wheel from marring. What time do you have Saturday? I could swing by to see if mine would work. If not, your no worst off. Chris __________________ Two left turns don't make a right, but three do!

10-07-2003	#16 (permalink)
GTJIM Old Opeler Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: New Zealand Posts: 5,686 Provided Answers: 12	Hi Bucky I see in your pic "puller.jpg" that the Nardi steering wheel is fitted to the alloy hub with a number of counter-sunk hex head screws in a circle around where the horn fits in. If you remove these the actual wheel itself will come off and leave a ring of threaded holes that can be used to attach the disc type puller you also pictured. Just use the wheel itself to see if the disc is of large enough diameter to drill matching holes in, using the Nardi wheel as a template to locate the holes on the rim of the puller. The threads are probably metric (check/find someone who knows) so do not try to screw any old bolts into the alloy hub. The counter-sunk screws may be usable but be sure that they are long enough as the alloy hub is very soft and the threads will pull out and be damaged if maximum thread engagement is not used. Remember to remove the centre nut and protect the shaft thread too - opeloldguy's suggestion of a socket is probably easiest. Just be sure that the socket sits on the shoulder above the spline and not on the end of the thread and also that the outside diameter of the socket fits through the spline hole in the alloy hub so that the splines will not be damaged either. Hope this helps too. __________________ GTJim Opel Owner since last Century! Copyright © 2000-2009 J D Henry All Rights Reserved

10-08-2003	#19 (permalink)
houserc 70's Opeler, back 4 more! Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Shawnee, KS (Kansas City Area) Posts: 409	I don't know what parts place you went to, but somebody, like NAPA or CarQuest, around us, might have the tool. Maybe even Snap-On might have something. It almost, but not quite, looks like the socket used to pull the locking mechanism out of four-wheel drive front wheels (minus two of the slots). I would try a couple other stores and ask them if they have any sugestions. The other thing is, I remember buying the socket tool I did and it was quite expensive. Even more so when you factored in only using it to take off the front rotor and then install it. You could even try fabricating one from a socket of the same diameter. (cut and grind, as oldopelguy said.) C __________________ Two left turns don't make a right, but three do!

10-08-2003	#20 (permalink)
opeldean 1000 Post Club Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Overland Park KS Posts: 1,999 Provided Answers: 1	search is on chris and all:the guy at the car parts shop said go the clark tools on shawnee misssion road.I might stop buy the nice VW shop chris mentioned..chris ..where was it? I will go there and if all else fails use wiseopelguys idea (wise opel sounds better than oldopel) and try to grind in a tool. I took a vacation day to play..my wifes sister is coming in to town so she will not need any attention.my kids are in school tilll 3;30..yipee a day to work on my opel. I will post photos when I get something done. __________________ Thank you members of opelgt.com for helping me on a 5 year reconstruction of the most beautiful car in the world Celeste: 1917,cc ,getrag resealed, 2liter Intake valves,ported,ISKY cam on solids,Opel forged rods,9.52 compression,total seal gapless,oil dam,RB gasket mod., DCOE side drafts,sprint,2in straight exhaust,pertronix,OMNI paint,SACHS clutch,OGTS & Kadette sway bars,Manta finned pan,3 V clock,Ball joints and Poly all... SAA-WEET!

10-08-2003	#21 (permalink)
Old Hippie Senior Contributor Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Paxico, Ks. Posts: 787	bucky, if you, or a fab-shop near you, have some scrap steel bar-stock, you can make a u-blade that should take the stress. Weld a piece of re-bar (got a welder?) to the top or use a medium pipewrench. Or try the blades of a ball joint splitter. 2 cents.

10-08-2003	#23 (permalink)
houserc 70's Opeler, back 4 more! Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Shawnee, KS (Kansas City Area) Posts: 409	I'm getting quite the chuckle from reading back through all the "advice" given here. Bucky, the VW shop is north on Merriam Drive. It is located before you get to I-635 on the North/west side of the road. (the road turns from north/south to more east/west as you go north.) There is also a steel shop, Shawnee Steel and welding, located, also, on Merriam Drive, just north of Shawnee Mission Parkway. From where you live get to Shawnee mission parkway, cross West over I-35 and stay in the right hand lane. This will exit onto Merriam Drive. Have fun driving North. There are LOTS of car repair places along there that might have what you need. __________________ Two left turns don't make a right, but three do!

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