Carrier and Pinion bearings

[jeffw]

I know it has been asked before, but has anyone sorced these bearings?
Speaking to OGTS they indicate that there are no alternates can this be true
Years ago I heard that they were the same as possibly a chevette (1985) or the Isuuzu.

[Dmcbrass]

They are available through Motion industries; however, they have to come from Europe. I checked on prices and there is very little savings.

[hallgeir]

I`m not sure, but is this what you are looking for?

www.opelgtparts.com

[jeffw]

Item one look's like it!
4 bearings $ 332 eur certainly not cheap
what does that work out to in $usd
seems like everyone I speak to here can't beleive that there is not another bearing available at a lower cost

[hallgeir]

EUR 332.00 is USD 425.00. That is certainly not cheap!!

[jeffw]

That's about $ 500. cad $
plus 14% tax and shipping

[soybean]

You can probably find a couple of used rear ends for that kind of price. That's bordering, is, outrageous. Glad I have a bunch of junkers around. But the cost of shipping out of the States would be as bad too.
Jarrell

[GTJIM]

These are obsolete parts from 35 year old cars - and Hard to find!!
That is why they are expensive. Any "cheaper" alternative bearings will be sub-standard products that will not be worth the candle.
GBP99 plus BGP25 shipping doesn't look too bad to me! GBP125 = $US236.07 .. today!

Try here: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Opel-MANTA-A1-...QQcmdZViewItem

There are several other UK e-Bay sellers who list them from time to time.

Another one: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OPEL-MANTA-B-A...QQcmdZViewItem

[soybean]

Good catch Jim. I, and probably many others never watch UK's Ebay. I think the conversion rates, and in the case of the German Ebay, language makes us pause. Looks like another site to watch. Jarrell

[baz]

converting the yo-yo to pounds is easy jarrell
as the rate is $1.90/£ or £0.53/$ you just double the price in £'s and its neer enough the price in $'s hope it hold steady for a while so i can buy some at this price

[hallgeir]

I always use this. It`s on my banks site. It`s in norwegian, but that shouldn`t be a problem, it`s very easy to use, and always updated. I`m sure most banks have one too on their sites.

http://www.sbm.no/felles/valutakalk.asp

[GTJIM]

A search on the www finds dozens of 'Currency Calculators'

Here is one I have used: http://www.forex.ch/converter.htm

[jeffw]

I have been mulling it over for a couple of days and decided to go with new bearings from OGTS, if the orginal lasted for 34 years, and I get half that from the new set: the cost does not seem that bad!
I figured I would replace all of the bearing torque tube as well while I am at it
, just for peace of mind.
Jeff

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by jeffw I have been mulling it over for a couple of days and decided to go with new bearings from OGTS, if the orginal lasted for 34 years, and I get half that from the new set: the cost does not seem that bad! I figured I would replace all of the bearing torque tube as well while I am at it , just for peace of mind. Jeff

For added piece of mind, use a high-grade synthetic gear oil when you rebuild the rear differential. Redline 'shockproof' oil is awesome, it will probably double the lifespan of the gears and bearings. That said, it should last the rest of your lifetime if the oil levels are kept full and occasionally changed out for fresh fluids.

The real reason most Opel axle bearings go bad is lack of maintentance. Most people have never changed their tranny or axle gear oils! Low oil levels will also kill the forward pinion bearing in a hurry.

Bob

[soybean]

Originally Posted by RallyBob For added piece of mind, use a high-grade synthetic gear oil when you rebuild the rear differential. Redline 'shockproof' oil is awesome, it will probably double the lifespan of the gears and bearings. That said, it should last the rest of your lifetime if the oil levels are kept full and occasionally changed out for fresh fluids. The real reason most Opel axle bearings go bad is lack of maintentance. Most people have never changed their tranny or axle gear oils! Low oil levels will also kill the forward pinion bearing in a hurry. Bob

Bob, would it be of any help to drain out the rear end, take the cover off, spray it down/clean it up with brake cleaner and then go with your recomendation above? Or would it be like using synthetic oil in the engine after using regular oil and cause the seals to leak? Thanks, Jarrell

[GTJIM]

Originally Posted by jeffw I have been mulling it over for a couple of days and decided to go with new bearings from OGTS, if the orginal lasted for 34 years, and I get half that from the new set: the cost does not seem that bad! I figured I would replace all of the bearing torque tube as well while I am at it , just for peace of mind. Jeff

Buying from OGTS is a good idea - you know the parts you are getting are correct. Don't forget to purchase a new 'crush sleeve' for preload between the pinion bearings when assembling the gears.
OGTS Part # 7027 only $6.00

[jeff denton]

Good decision, Jeff. You could drive yourself nuts trying to save a nickel in the differential department. Those of us who must keep the rear original for whatever reason just have to bite the bullet and pay the price. I got lucky, thanks again to Stan Czacki! He had everything I needed...
I suspect we will soon be getting questions from you on how to rebuild the rearend, I have posts here on my experience with this... again, my advice is to forget the FSM as it will require you to obtain tooling that is rare...
consider it just a simple, typical differential overhaul and use basic procedures for determining pinion depth and backlash.
And of course we'll be glad to help you!

[GTJIM]

Here is a Thread with their part numbers:

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/4a-diff...ers-print.html

and the rebuild thread:

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/4a-diff...wnwheel+pinion

[jeffw]

It's going to take a couple weeks before I receive the parts so it may be a good time to search some of the fourms
One thing for sure, having the treads provided makes my work alot easier!
thanks guys.
I met with a mechanic who has never worked on a GT before but comes recommended, seeing that he has all the presses, ect. I figure it will be money well spent. I do want to have as much information I canput my hands on to make his job as easy as posible. He did say that he feels that he could pick up the bearings with out to much problem.

Jeff

[GTJIM]

Originally Posted by jeffw One thing for sure, having the treads provided makes my work alot easier! thanks guys. Jeff

Jeff, We help for the first 55 postings - then you need to learn to use the "Search" for yourself or it makes OUR work so much harder ...


I met with a mechanic who has never worked on a GT before ... He did say that he feels that he could pick up the bearings with out to much problem


Mutually exclusive statements !!

[Manta Rallier]

These were farily standard bearings that I could get from common bearing supply houses at least up to about 1990. Have you taken them to a bearing supply house and asked?

Mark B.

[raycemon]

Bob, you recomended shockproof oil in the rear end. Is your recommendation for heavy duty or the lighter version? I've got a 69, the bearings, pinion and ring gears look good but the small gears are a little worn. The axel splines have some backlash also. Just looking for the best stuff to keep it quiet and last.

thanks Bill

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by raycemon Bob, you recomended shockproof oil in the rear end. Is your recommendation for heavy duty or the lighter version? I've got a 69, the bearings, pinion and ring gears look good but the small gears are a little worn. The axel splines have some backlash also. Just looking for the best stuff to keep it quiet and last. thanks Bill

I'd normally recommend the lighter weight, but if you race the car or drive it really hard, or if you already have some wear in the diff, then I'd probably go with the heavier grade.